CELEBRATING LANCASTER COUNTY'S PEOPLE, SCENERY,

HERITAGE, STYLE & POINT OF VIEW SINCE 1987.

The Long & Short of It

Isn’t it odd how food can trigger a memory. Back in June, my son, Charlie, treated me to a Nationals game in D.C. I haven’t been in D.C. in probably eight years and was amazed by what they’ve done in the section of town where the stadium is located. Northeast D.C. used to be no-man’s land. Now, it’s filled with restaurants, shops, office buildings, parks and condos. Construction was taking place everywhere, most likely in preparation for D.C. hosting the All-Star game in 2018.

But, I digress. Charlie was intent on finding a restaurant called Due South. The nearly 2-mile odyssey took me back in time (about 45 years) to college in North Carolina. I’ll always remember the night my roommate took me to College Barbecue in Salisbury and introduced me to Carolina-style barbecue, slaw and hush puppies. You didn’t pair the combo with sweet tea, but with a local delicacy called Cheerwine.

Cheerwine was developed in 1917 by LD Peeler, who owned the Carolina Beverage Company. The highly carbonated drink’s wild cherry flavor made people forget about sugary drinks. That was part of Peeler’s plan: due to World War I, sugar was in scarce supply.

The rest, as they say, is history. Cheerwine was solely available in North Carolina until the 90s, when it expanded across the border into neighboring South Carolina. Now, it is going nationwide thanks to a partnership with Pepsi and will be available in all 50 states in time for its 100th anniversary in 2017.

Still family-owned, Cheerwine is also available as an ice cream and sherbet flavor. A local bakery also makes Cheerwine cakes. The newest claim to fame is a Kreme drink that combines the tastes of Cheerwine and Krispy Kreme Doughnuts. Finding that is at the top of my shopping list when I’m on Hatteras Island in late August.

But, it’s Cheerwine’s connection to barbecue that has solidified its fame. It’s the No. 1 or No. 2 brand of soft drink sold at barbecue joints, and it’s the official soft drink/sponsor of the National Barbecue & Grilling Association.

Yep, I remember many a late night when we wanted something to eat and would cross the Tar River in Greenville (I transferred to East Carolina University) and go to some ramshackle gas station for barbecue and Cheerwine. Lord knows where and how the barbecue was made, but it was fantastic!

If we wanted seafood, we went to a cinderblock building out in the sticks called Cliff’s. The food was unbelievable. For weekend trips to Myrtle Beach, we always reserved $10 from our beer money so that we could go to a small fishing village on the NC/SC border called Calabash for dinner (right off the boat) on Saturday night. Again, the food was beyond comprehension.

Guess what was on the menu at Due South? Cheerwine! I had to have it, along with Carolina-style barbecue, cornbread, collard greens (with bacon), and mac-n-cheese. I smiled the whole time. Charlie, who had shrimp & grits, thought it was a little strange that something as simple as a drink could make me so happy. But, then again, according to legend, that is why it’s called Cheerwine.

Speaking of Greenville, I’m now obsessed with Chef Vivian Howard, who has a restaurant, Chef & The Farmer, that’s reached mecca status in the nearby farm town of Kinston, North Carolina. Vivian, who couldn’t wait to get out of her small town, landed in New York. Her parents enticed her to move back home with the promise of helping her to launch her own restaurant.

I discovered her PBS show, A Chef’s Life, while channel surfing one Sunday. Again, it brings back memories of my North Carolina relatives (all of whom can cook up a storm) and college. I even called to see how long it would take to drive to Kinston from the Outer Banks. Three hours (counting a ferry ride) was a little daunting, so one of these days, I’ll have to take a road trip and also stop at the Lantern Restaurant in Chapel Hill. I read somewhere that its heralded owner/chef, Andrea Reusing, credits summers with her Lancaster County grandparents for forging her interest in the farm-to-table concept.

The same phenomenon happened when photographer Kirk Zutell and I visited Central Market for this month’s issue. Following in Martha Stewart’s footsteps, we stopped by Ric’s Bread and sampled the most incredible sticky buns and croissants. The sticky buns reminded me of sleepovers at my cousin Cassia’s house and going to Pfannebecker’s Bakery on Manor Street the next morning.

The girls tending the stand at Maplehofe Dairy invited us to try a sample of the chocolate milk. One sip and I was at my grandfather’s Cabbage Hill dairy, where he made chocolate milk on Wednesdays. I bet I haven’t had chocolate milk since I was a kid!

Kirk and I just looked at each other; words could not express how good that chocolate milk was.

Sue Long

Food Anthropology

What do you get when you combine the rustic simplicity of Italian cooking, the top-notch hospitality of Napa Valley and a love of fresh, vibrant and locally sourced ingredients? You get Luca, a new restaurant in Lancaster that’s as homey and welcoming as it is chic.

Luca’s proprietors, Taylor and Leeann Mason, also own and operate Ma(i)son, a boutique restaurant along North Prince Street that opened in July 2011 and quickly became a sought-after special occasion spot. Luca, on the other hand, aspires to be a true neighborhood restaurant that can be as casual or as celebratory as each individual guest would like.

The two share a common thread: Taylor Mason’s passion for simple, fresh ingredients that are treated as simply as possible.

The Back Story

Taylor and Leeann met as students at Mount St. Mary’s College in Maryland. After graduating with business degrees (she in 2006 and he in 2007), they decided to head west. Taylor applied to the Culinary Institute of America in St. Helena, California, the heart of Napa Valley. As they got to know the area, they were not only impressed by the level of excellence and professionalism in the hospitality industry, but also the extent to which the land and nature were revered. “Everyone bowed down to understanding that Mother Nature dictated everything, and we were just harvesting a little bit of her beauty,” he remembers. “There’s huge respect for earth, seasons and agriculture in general.” As they were working in the wineries, they would meet people from the East Coast who marveled at the vibrancy and freshness of Napa Valley food.

Taylor credits that sentiment to a hallmark of California cuisine: Restaurants serve food that is harvested locally and in season. He doesn’t just mean the traditional four seasons. Taking a cue from California, Taylor works to develop cuisine that reflects specific points – what month or even what week – of the growing season.

And, that’s ultimately what drew the Masons to Lancaster.

Leeann grew up in Downingtown, Taylor in the D.C. suburb of Silver Spring, Maryland. Leeann’s mom’s side of the family resides in Millersville. After five years on the West Coast, the Masons decided to move back to the East Coast to be closer to family. But, before settling in, they wanted to travel through Europe to experience the food, wine and culture. They planned to come home to Downingtown for several months, enjoy the birth of their niece, and then hit the road for Europe.

Two days after arriving in Pennsylvania, Leeann got a call from a family friend who told her about a restaurant in Lancaster that had just closed and was on the market. Leeann’s love of real estate got them through the door, and despite Taylor’s skepticism, he says they walked into the space at 230 North Prince Street, felt at home and became restaurant owners. They named it

Ma(i)son, a play on their last name plus the French word for “home,” and took up residence in the upstairs apartment.

Taylor, who was inspired by Lancaster County agriculture, was excited to create a true farm-to-table restaurant built on family-like relationships with local farmers and respect of the ingredients they provide.

One of Taylor’s most impactful mentors, David Kinch of Manresa in Los Gatos, California, taught him that getting more involved and closer to the ingredients you cook with will ultimately elevate the cuisine you create. Thus, Taylor aspires to use all available parts of a plant – not just the pea pod for example, but the pea shoot and pea flower as well – “There are so many interesting and edible parts to a plant besides just the fruit it’s grown for,” he observes.

“We want to create a mind-blowing but very simple flavor experience [at both restaurants] based on the fact that people worked hard to grow great products,” Taylor says. “Then we want to put it on the plate in an unadulterated simple state.

“There are days that the veggies we’re using come straight from the farm and don’t touch refrigeration. That’s when I know I’ve done my job well.”

What’s In a Name

The Masons chose the name Luca for their newest venture in part as homage to a distant relative of Leeann’s who was an Italian shoemaker, and also because Taylor loves the name (if they had a son, he would be named Luca – the couple has two daughters).

Luca’s menu, which features rustic Italian-inspired dishes, will change often. As a “curator” of his menu, Taylor wants to create simple dishes that aren’t necessarily what you will find at other Italian restaurants.

“To me, food is a thoughtful curation of what reflects a time and place,” he explains. “We want to deliver a beautiful storybook experience of traveling through Italy with a menu that will evolve throughout the year with what’s available at that time.” Taylor refers to this as “food anthropology,” or where history, culture and tradition intersect.

In practice, that means offering lighter food in the summer and heartier, richer food in the winter. Taylor admits to enjoying the challenge of cooking in the fall and winter with local ingredients: “You paint with fewer colors, but darker richer colors,” he says.

A wood-burning hearth and handmade Italian wood-burning oven serve as the focal points of the restaurant’s design and help create dynamic, complex flavors for fish, veggies and pizzas.

Vino

As curated as Luca’s menu is, the Masons also took exacting care in creating a beverage program to enhance the culinary experience and advance wine culture in Lancaster. After tasting hundreds of wines, they created guiding principles to assist in making their selections.

First, the wine had to complement the cuisine. Which meant not just offering wines they knew would sell – oaky chardonnays or heavy cabernets – but listing wines that may be a bit unfamiliar and would elevate the food through characteristics like lower alcohol content, lighter body or higher acidity. Secondly, they wanted to create a spectrum of geographic wines that uniquely expresses where they’re from, which is why the wine list features selections from Sicily, Tuscany, Umbria and Piedmont, to name a few.

Luca’s beverage menu also features a dynamic cocktail program, small lot artisanal beers and more than 20 Italian “amaros” – classic digestifs.

A Building Comes Full Circle

But what’s great food and drink without a great space? The James Street location was built in the 1940s as a grocery store and was then used as a dry-goods wholesale warehouse from the 1950s until the Masons acquired it in 2014. “I find that to be the most poignant thing about this project,” Taylor says. “We are bringing food back to a building that was built for food.”

The restaurant space features a bar that is perfect for walk-in guests, a mezzanine available for general seating and private events, a chef’s table right in front of the open kitchen and a large front dining area that overlooks a patio. When weather permits, it’s the Masons’ plan to raise a large (glass) garage door at the front of the building to create the feel of an open-air Italian café.

“We want Luca to be an Italian lifestyle,” Taylor explains. “Not just Italian food.”


436 West James St., Lancaster. Open Tuesday-Saturday, 5-11 p.m. For information, visit lucalancaster.com. For reservations, call 553-5770.

A Vacation for Cooking

Most people view vacations as a break from cooking. But, visitors to Fairview Cottage, an Airbnb in West Hempfield Township, are inspired to cook, due in part to the bounty of the county, as well as the beautiful kitchen that is theirs to use.

The cottage on the farm that is owned by Carol and Pete Heth dates to the mid-1800s. For decades, various relatives of Carol’s lived there. When the Heths bought the farm, they continued to rent it out. When the last tenant moved out, they decided to let it sit vacant while they weighed their options. One idea was a bed-and-breakfast, so the Heths took advantage of a tour that was being sponsored by a local B&B association. Inn owners in the western area of the county encouraged them to move forward with the idea, explaining they often needed overflow options during the height of tourist season.

They proceeded with the idea of opening a B&B, editing it somewhat to become associated with a new travel phenomenon, the Airbnb, whose premise is “feel at home anywhere in the world.” For the next three years, Carol and Pete renovated and reconfigured what became known as Fairview Cottage. “And, I started collecting,” Carol says, referring to furnishings and accessories.

The Heths love to travel themselves, plus they own a home on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. Renting cottages for their annual family vacation in July, which typically involves more than a dozen children and adults, convinced her that designing a kitchen that cooks would be appreciated by guests staying at Fairview Cottage.

Over the years, she’s had her fill of ill-equipped kitchens and inadequate appliances. “Wherever we go, we like to cook, so those things are important to us,” she says, recalling a cottage on the Chesapeake that accommodated 16 guests but only had one tiny refrigerator, and another waterside spot that didn’t have a pot large enough for steaming even a few crabs.

So, Carol designed a kitchen that touches on those two important points. Moveable metal racks hold pots, pans and other necessities. A pantry is filled with dishes, glassware and utensils. Appliances include a large refrigerator, a dishwasher and a commercial range (plus coffee makers and a toaster). A gas grill is also available. An island does double duty as it provides a work area and seating for enjoying a meal.

The guestbook is filled with complimentary comments. “We loved cooking together,” noted a couple from New Jersey. “I loved cooking in that amazing kitchen,” wrote a guest from New York City. Another New Yorker thanked Carol for sending her to Central Market. Guests from Connecticut and Florida thanked her for the recipes she shared. Still others thank the Heths for the welcome gift they always provide: farm-fresh eggs. Guests who visit Lancaster on a regular basis have rented the cottage for Thanksgiving weekend and plan to prepare a holiday dinner for their parents in the cottage’s kitchen.

“When we first opened, I don’t think guests arrived with the intention of doing a lot of cooking, but once they saw what Lancaster County has to offer, many of them took advantage of what they could buy and where they could cook it,” she says. “Now, we’re getting guests who come solely to spend their vacations cooking.” In fact, Fairview Cottage has proven to be so popular that the Heths are remodeling another building on the farm and hope to have their second Airbnb open by late fall.

Celebrating Lancaster County’s Roots Deep, Fertile and Flourishing

It must have been more than luck that brought our ancestors to this area. Somehow, they had to sense that Lancaster County’s soil is truly exceptional.

Did you know that our precious county is the most productive non-irrigated farming county in the entire nation? Considering that 99% of Lancaster’s farms are family-owned, our farmers are a special community, and one that rarely takes the time to gather together to acknowledge all that they bring – literally – to the table.

For one autumn week, the Lancaster County Agricultural Council rolls back the curtain and shares the wizardry that our farming community works so hard to create – year after year, crop after crop. And our county’s agriculture industry goes far beyond the farmers’ fields. In fact, says poultry farmer Dan Heller, Lancaster County could be called the “Silicon Valley of agriculture,” a title earned by the agricultural equipment, goods and services our county’s businesses provide to the nation, not to mention the tremendous produce that it grows.

From October 9-15, the Ag Council will promote farm tours, educational and career opportunities and other efforts to share life “down on the farm” with the rest of Lancaster County. Of course, Lancaster County Ag Week includes food – glorious, made-in-Lancaster-County food.

“We want to celebrate everything that Lancaster County has to offer the community at large,” says Nancy Brown, marketing manager and special events coordinator at Oregon Dairy. What better way to cap off the agriculturally focused week than with a celebratory feast, set in a rustically beautiful barn.

Featuring foods exclusively grown or produced in Lancaster County, “Denim and Pearls” is a visual history lesson of why Lancaster County is often synonymous with “delicious.” Generations of products, from Groff’s sweet bologna to Hodecker’s celery to more recent arrivals like Lancaster Hummus and Waltz Vineyards’ wine, are on the menu, served family-style in the barn at Oregon Dairy. Last year’s display of Lancaster-made items included a nod to past producers with a Pensupreme milkbox and Stehman’s giant, green potato chip can (staples of Lancaster homes in the 50s, 60s and 70s). “It was amazing to see the scores of Lancaster-made products assembled together,” says Nancy, who serves as the event’s organizer.
Guests dined on tables topped with linens and china. Laughter and congenial conversations lifted into the barn’s rough-hewn rafters. The agricultural community marked the end of another growing season in fertile, fabulous Lancaster County.


Last year’s inaugural Lancaster-made dinner will be followed up with an encore on Thursday, October 13, and the public is invited. For more information on Oregon Dairy’s Denim and Pearls 2016 Dinner on the Farm, please visit  Oregondairy.com or email Nancy.Brown@OregonDairy.com.

Community of Oasis at Bird-in-Hand

Local, organic, GMO-free, pasture-fed, free range … if those are words you live by, this collective of earth-friendly and horse-powered farmers is for you.

The Philosophy

It all begins with the soil: knowing it and what can be done to enhance it is the Oasis philosophy behind growing healthy plants. However, enhancement does not equate to using synthetic chemicals. Instead, Oasis farmers use certified organic growing techniques to build up the nutrient content of the soil. The soil, in turn, yields produce that is nutrient-dense, chemically free, GMO-free and contains no added hormones.

GMO is the latest culprit in the food chain. Standing for “genetically modified organism,” such ingredients are artifically manipulated to withstand the direct application of herbicides and/or to produce an insecticide (nongmoproject.org). As a result, GMOs are putting the health of humans and the environment at risk.

On the flip side, nutrient-dense foods provide concentrated amounts of vitamins, minerals, fiber, essential fatty acids and phytonutrients. When you’re deprived of such things, your energy level plummets.

The philosophy extends to animals, as well. Cows and sheep are grass-fed. Cattle is Angus or heritage breeds. Swine forage in woodland and pasture areas. Chickens are given free range. The use of hormones and antibiotics is not permitted.

Pasture-fed animals are utilized to create dairy products. Milk comes from grass-fed cows. That milk is utilized in the production of cheese, yogurt and butter. Oasis is licensed by the state’s Department of Agriculture and the Federal Food & Drug Administration to bottle and sell raw milk in Pennsylvania.

All aspects of Oasis – from the growing methods to the exclusive use of horse power – is geared to reducing the carbon footprint.

World Showcase

Three years ago, members of the Oasis community were given an unprecedented opportunity to share the bounty of Lancaster County with the world. The occasion was a gathering of  Le Club des Chefs des Chefs; members just happen to be chefs to the world’s kings, queens, presidents and other heads of state. The chefs were simply astounded by what was being served to them in the barn at Landis Valley Museum. According to a story that was published in LNP, one chef called it “real food” and pointed out, “We are not used to these things anymore.”

Restaurants and specialty stores in the Northeast and Middle Atlantic have discovered Oasis and serve and sell the cooperative’s products.

Butter!

Oasis is now collaborating with Bobolink Dairy (Milford, New Jersey) to create butter that is gaining fans among chefs (including those at New York’s toniest restaurants), bakers and foodies. The salted variety is made with sea salt that is mined in Utah.

Where to Find Oasis

Oasis operates a store in Ronks, where you’ll find produce, meat, dairy, poultry and specialty items like Menno Tea. It’s open six days a week. At Central Market, Oasis operates a produce stand, as well as one dedicated to dairy products. The collective also offers a CSA.


Community of Oasis at Bird-in-Hand

60 N. Ronks Rd. and Central Market

288-2154

Reallivefood.org.

Mutiny of the Bounty

Does the thought of one more sliced tomato, stuffed pepper, ear of corn or zucchini whatever make you want to stage a revolt? Fall arrives on September 22 and with it, another way to use those treasures from the garden: soups and chowders.

You could say that Jason Hampton is a member of a ground-breaking family. Back in the late 60s, Jason’s parents, Tom and Cindy Hampton, launched a small grape-growing operation in the Southern End. It was the first time in over 100 years that grapes were being grown for wine-making purposes in Lancaster County.

Initially they grew grapes (mainly Concord and French hybrids) for other vineyards (including Nissley and Mount Hope). “Then, my dad said, ‘Hey, let’s make wine,’ so we began making our own wine,” Jason recalls. The first vintages debuted in 1978.

According to Jason, they sold anything and everything to keep Tucquan Vineyards & Winery moving forward, including vegetables, fruit, cider and, of course, wine. “I grew up working non-stop,” says the Penn Manor grad. “If my brother [Brad] and I had nothing to do, my dad would say, ‘Well, then, pick up rocks and sticks.’”

Jason says he learned his work ethic from his parents, both of whom worked full-time jobs (Tom at Armstrong and Cindy at the Pennsylvania Dutch Convention & Visitors Bureau) in addition to overseeing their wine-making operation. “We were once featured in Money magazine,” Jason notes.

When a hail storm destroyed their crop in the late 80s, the Hamptons decided to close. “We just didn’t have the energy to start over,” Cindy recalls. They sold the farm and bought a house on the edge of the city.

As for Jason, wine helped to instill an interest in food, and he ultimately launched his culinary career as a bus boy at Casa Rillo’s, which opened a location in Centerville in the 90s but closed after a year. From there, Jason upped his game and began cooking at various restaurants around the county.

However, music was Jason’s first love and after graduating from high school, he became a music major at Marshall University in West Virginia. Still intrigued by food (and recognizing a career in music was a long shot), he decided to transfer and enroll in culinary school. “I figured cooking could support my music,” he explains. His next stop was the Johnson & Wales campus in Virginia Beach. “I worked at some seafood restaurants, too,” he adds. Despite his hectic schedule, Jason graduated with honors.

His next stop on the career ladder was Lake Tahoe, where he worked at a resort hotel. “I was able to occasionally get to Napa,” he says of California’s legendary wine country.

Then, it was back to Lancaster, where he worked in the kitchens at Haydn Zug’s and The Log Cabin. He also ventured into contract dining and worked at F&M under Chef Bill Scepansky.

That experience paved the way for Jason’s current position as the director of dining services and executive chef at Juniper Village, a retirement community in Mount Joy. There he oversees meals, catering, staffing, purchasing and menu creation. “It keeps me busy,” he admits.

Three years ago, he launched his own business, In a Pinch, offering personal chef and catering services. “It allows me to be even more creative and use ingredients that foodies are curious about,” he says. And, he’s doing his homework in order to stay abreast of trends and products. “I learn a lot through social media and reading,” he explains.

It seems a chef’s work is never done. “Jen and I enjoy cooking at home on Sundays,” he says, referring to his wife. Interestingly, he met Jen through the Office of Domestic Relations. “We both had aunts who worked there and one summer, we were their interns,” he elaborates. Married for 13 years, Jason and Jen are the parents of two daughters, Maia (10) and Madalyn (9).


InAPinch-Etown.com or #etownchef.

Roasted Pepper/Smoked Gouda Chowder

Roasted
Pepper/Smoked Gouda Chowder

Roasted Pepper/Smoked Gouda Chowder

With the arrival of fall, root vegetables start arriving at market. “The early ones provide a nice transition from the raw, seasonal produce we’ve been eating,” Jason notes. He cautions that this chowder is “the real deal” and is not for those who are counting calories. In addition to potatoes, the chowder’s ingredients include roasted pepper, onion, heavy cream, Gouda cheese and rendered bacon.

Ginger Carrot Soup

Ginger Carrot Soup

Ginger Carrot Soup

This will be served at the Field of Hope dinner as part of the appetizer course. Jason loves the versatility of this dish. For the dinner, he will serve it as a shooter. Of course, it can be served in a bowl as either a chilled or warm soup. And, it’s perfect for those following a vegan or gluten-free diet. In addition to carrots, ingredients include coconut milk, lime juice, bananas and harissa, a Moroccan pepper/spice blend. “I think it’s the next big spice,” he predicts.

Field of Hope

As with most ideas, this dinner with a purpose began as a conversation among friends.

On a trip to New York in March to attend the Architectural Digest Design Show, Carol Heth shared with her traveling companions that she’d like to put a dinner together that would serve a purpose. And, she already knew what that purpose would be: helping Heather Carlock, who had recently received a small bowel transplant, cope with her mounting medical bills. “Heather went to school with my kids,” she says of the personal connection.

She is also aware of the challenges Hayden Rettew is facing due to his Dravet Syndrome diagnosis, as she often works on design projects with his grandmother, Sally Ream, at Phillips Paint & Decorating Center. Jason Hampton, who will serve as the chef for the dinner, became aware of Dawson Waite’s battle with x-linked myotubular myopathy through working with Dawson’s mother. Hayden and Dawson will benefit as well.

From there, things fell into place. Friends became committee members. Vendors offered their services.

The open-air dinner on the Heths’ farm in West Hempfield Township will be held September 17 (4-8 p.m.). Many of the ingredients for the farm-to-table dinner will be supplied by the farmers/vendors that comprise the Community of Oasis at Bird-in-Hand. Bird-in-Hand Bake Shop will provide fresh made Amish Bread and sticky buns. Cupcakes will be provided by CupCakinLori. Wine will be supplied by the Philip Carter Winery in Hume, Virginia. (The connection? Carter was an impromptu guest at one of the Heths’ Thanksgiving dinners, and a friendship was forged.) Josh Wolpert (the cousin of James Wolpert, who appeared on The Voice) will provide live entertainment.


Tickets are priced at $125. For details/reservations, visit lancofieldofhope.com, email fairviewandcarol@gmail.com, or call 538-3877.

Field of Hope Menu

Appetizers Under the Tent

Assorted Cheese and Meat Boards

Bourbon Chicken Liver Pâté

Beet and Herb Goat Cheese Crostini

Ginger Carrot Shooters

Dinner in the Field

Farm Fresh Greens with Heth Egg & Scratch Vinaigrette

Roasted Sweet Potato Puree with Smoked Paprika

Grilled Fall Vegetable Bounty

Braised Beef Brisket, Onion Pan Jus

Dessert Under the Tent

Cupcakes and Sticky Buns

Fashion Plate

According to the Pantone Institute, fall’s color menu is being inspired by things we crave: tranquility, strength and optimism. Those sentiments translate to colors such as Airy Blue, Aurora Red and Bodacious.

Optimism abounds in September. The month sees students return to school and signals a return to our normal routines (or, maybe we do a turnabout and establish new ones). Essentially, September is a month in which we can reinvent ourselves. That was Abby King’s plan. Our intern spent the summer grappling with a touch of separation anxiety, as she was bidding farewell to high school and excitedly preparing for her freshman year at Goshen College in Indiana. “I can be anyone I want to be,” became her mantra. The world was going to be her oyster.

So, we thought it might be apropos to help the future journalism major forge a new image. True to her optimistic outlook, Abby was game for anything. Tiger’s Eye, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, was on board to blend Abby’s youthful optimism with some sophisticated styles. Pam Simmons and her team from Attitudes Hair & Nail Salon, which is celebrating its 18th anniversary, whisked in subtle color from both a hair and makeup perspective.

Meet the new Abby.

“Are these mom jeans?” Abby asked with trepidation. Tiger’s Eye owner, Nadine Buch, assured her the pull-on, straight-legged, crop-length stretch jeans from Jag were the latest incarnation of jeggings. The no-zipper/no-fly concept simply provides for a smooth and lean look. The multi-colored, jewel-neck, long-sleeve T-shirt from Snoskins, which seamlessly skims over the jeans, exemplifies this fall’s color palette.

Accessories include the Baggallini (color is cactus), which was created by two flight attendants. The cross-over style has numerous compartments and is soil and water resistant. And, it’s made in the USA! The ankle-strap sandals (in pistachio) are from Groundhog and are eco and comfort friendly.

Natural-looking makeup and a styled ponytail complete the look that is perfect for breakfast at a favorite coffee shop – in this case, Dosie Dough in Lititz – or looking  polished for class.

Hoping to avoid the proverbial “freshman 15” weight gain, Abby made a beeline for Olio Olive Oils and Balsamics in Lititz to stock up on cooking supplies. The tunic from Terra is one of the season’s must-have items as it easily transitions through fall and into winter (wear it sleeveless on those Indian summer days or pair it with a long-sleeved T-shirt or turtleneck sweater when the air goes from crisp to cold). The crop jersey pants are from Eileen Fisher.

The handcrafted, cut-out sandals are from Walk and are made in the USA (Abby loved them). The Merano-glass stretch bracelets are from Nikaia. The teal bag is from Victoria Leather.

The stylists from Attitudes amped up the makeup a bit in order to complement the dramatic colors in the tunic. Bouncy waves define Abby’s hairstyle.

007_072416_LCmag_LititzWhat do you wear for a dinner date? A dress! This Donna Morgan design addresses all of fall’s style points: color (ink blue), fabric (sheer overlay) and texture (embroidery). Accessories include a dot-beaded bag from Sea Lily and a choker/lariat from Chan Luu. The double-crescent earrings are from California designer Nar.

The team from Attitudes designed a look that employed a modern take on the classic French twist for Abby’s hair. The ever-popular smoky eye was balanced by a neutral lip.

The setting is the General Sutter Inn’s beautiful dining room.

Tips from the Pros

Tammy Bechtold, Rachel Schneider, Pam Simmons

Tammy Bechtold, Rachel Schneider, Pam Simmons

From Pam Simmons at Attitudes

College students who will be far from home should get a good haircut before they leave for campus. A good cut will take them to Thanksgiving break. She also advises that far-flung students should avoid high-maintenance cuts and color.

Abby’s color — courtesy of Attitudes — combines two techniques: balayage and ombre. “It looks natural as it grows out,” Pam says of balayage. The ombre technique delivers brighter ends. “It just adds a little more pizzazz,” she says.

From Tammy Bechtold at Attitudes

As much as you’re tempted, don’t allow a roommate or friend to cut or color your hair. If you can’t make it home before a break, find a salon in your college town.

From Rachel Schneider at Attitudes

Peruse Pinterest for a style that appeals to you, download the photo to your phone/iPad and share it with your stylist.

The Look

According to Pam, women are still loving the bob. But, it’s not a one-cut-fits-all scenario.“There are so many variations,” she notes. Also popular is the natural, wavy look she sums up in one word: “beachy.” Soft, fringy bangs are also in vogue.

The natural look continues with makeup. “It’s more subtle, more natural,” she notes. Even the ever-popular smoky eye is more subdued. Pam uses products from TIGI at her salon.

From Nadine Buch at Tiger’s Eye

Dresses are not one-style fits all. Like jeans, you will need to try on various styles to find one that complements your body shape. Don’t give up! Nadine is also of the opinion that jewelry and accessories provide that all-important finishing touch for any outfit, whether you’re running errands or attending a black-tie event. Unusual, artful jewelry and accessories can help to make a first and lasting impression. “We love to provide our customers with a custom, total look,” she says of the unique head-to-toe looks Tiger’s Eye is known to create. “That’s our forte.”

Fall Fashion What’s In Store
Ruffles, gold metallic, shearling bomber jackets, leather, eye-popping (faux) fur, jumpers, pantsuits, plaid (muted and subtle), turtlenecks, off-the-shoulder, florals, velvet, athleisure, animal print (leopard) and Chinoiserie. In jewelry, look for chokers.

Fall Color Forcast

According to Pantone, here’s what you’ll be seeing in fashion

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Groff’s Meats, Inc.

Last year, Groff’s Meats celebrated its 140th anniversary. Now owned by Nancy, Frank, John and Virginia Groff – the great-grandchildren of founders Joseph and John Groff – the company continues to honors its roots, yet stays abreast of today’s trends.

History

Back in 1875, the Groff brothers drove their cattle into Elizabethtown via North Market Street. Theirs was one of several butcher shops that dotted the town. Ingenuity was their key to success: ice cut from a pond on their farm was hauled to the shop in an effort to keep the beef chilled.

Joseph’s sons, Frank and Wilford, became the next owners. Customer service entered into the picture as the brothers began offering home delivery, first with a horse and wagon and later with a truck. While they continued the tradition of herding cattle down Market Street, they also invested in an electric saw and slicer.

After World War II, Frank’s children, Joseph and Helen, became the company’s caretakers. Tragedy struck when the shop was demolished by fire. However, the Groffs turned their misfortune into an opportunity and expanded from both a size and selection perspective.

Now, a fourth generation oversees the family business. Groff’s expanded once again in 1987 when the company took over a vacant property along North Market Street, allowing both the shop and butchering facility to grow in size. As a result, Groff’s, which employs 45 people, has been able to cultivate an impressive customer base that is 80% wholesale and 20% retail. Nine trucks service wholesale customers that range from local restaurants (such as The Hotel Hershey) to standholders at regional farmers’ markets. Owners of ethnic markets/groceries also rely on Groff’s, as does a client in Florida, whose truck arrives in Elizabethtown every two weeks. As for the retail aspect of the business, co-owner Nancy Groff reports, “This place is packed on Fridays and Saturdays.”

What’s Trending

The popularity of grilling and smoking has provided shops such as Groff’s with a new lease on life. In addition to always-popular beef cuts, pork has become a hot commodity; Nancy reports that pork butts are in such high demand by grillers/smokers that they can’t restock the case fast enough on Fridays and Saturdays. Bacon is also a huge seller. “We sell it like crazy,” she notes. Sausage is also coveted, and Groff’s has 14 varieties, including flavors such as blueberry maple, Cajun, Italian (hot or sweet), and peach jalapeño. Again, according to Nancy, grillers snap it up.

The area’s cultural diversity has made Groff’s the go-to place for ethnic groups. As a result, new products/cuts have joined the menu. Nancy points to fresh belly of pig as an example, explaining it’s widely used among Asians. “It’s interesting to see how one cut is used in so many ways,” she says.

What’s Available

You name it, and it’s probably available. “Or, we will find it for you,” Nancy guarantees. As a result, the customer base – primarily representing Lancaster, Dauphin and Lebanon counties – for the retail aspect of the business covers the spectrum. Older customers select products they’ve been eating since childhood. (Scrapple or pudding, anyone?) Younger foodies arrive with recipes in hand. Families eat healthy through the market planner packages that are available. Ethnic groups have discovered products that help to capture a taste of home.

Beef lovers will find nearly four dozen products available, ranging from brisket and Delmonico steak to ground chuck and tripe. The pork menu includes more than two dozen products. (The Groffs work with farms that are located within a 25-mile radius of Elizabethtown.)

The lineup also extends to smoked products, deli items (some made in-house) and poultry. The shop also sells condiments and sauces (and more) for one-stop shopping. There are even bones and hogs’ ears for your dog. And, whole roasting pigs are available for the ever-popular pig roast.

Specialties of the House

“We make our own smoked products,” Nancy notes. Ham? It’s par for the course to sell 800-plus the week before Christmas. Custom cutting is also a Groff’s specialty. Deer butchering is another of the company’s trademarks. “That keeps us busy from October right through January,” Nancy notes.

However, the Groffs are especially proud of their mincemeat, which is used to create pies and other savory desserts. Made from an old family recipe, the mincemeat is comprised of apples, raisins, beef, sherry, rum, cider and spice. “We make a ton of it September through December,” Nancy reports. In her estimation, mincemeat is an integral part of a traditional Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner. Groff’s mincemeat is renowned and is shipped to bakeries and specialty stores throughout the country.


Groff’s Meats

33 N. Market St., Elizabethtown

367-1246

Groffsmeats.com

Central Market

America’s oldest farmers’ market is many things to many people. For some, it’s a shopping destination; for others, it’s a social experience. Tourists are mesmerized by it. No matter the relationship, Lancastrians are proud to call it their own.

History

You might call Central Market a living history cookbook due to the fact that it’s nearly as old as the county, which was established in 1729. When Andrew and James Hamilton planned the city of Lancaster a year later, they included a plot in the center of town that was dedicated to a public market. First operating as an open-air market, the concept proved to be so popular that it evolved over time, as a shed-like structure took shape in 1757. Later in the century, an arcade-style structure was built along the first block of West King Street. As many as 400 vendors conducted business on the site. Curb markets also sprang up in the vicinity of market.

The current market house dates to 1889. Its architectural style (Romanesque Revival), intricate brick and stone work and towers stand as testament to the role agriculture plays in the county’s economy. Fortunately, little has changed since 1889 outside of a few cosmetic changes that have been undertaken. Most of the significant changes are of the behind-the-scenes variety. Most obvious is the recently completed plaza-like area that borders two sides of the market house.

Visitors take comfort in the familiarity that the market house provides. Year after year, voters in our readers’ survey name Central Market as the best place to take visitors. The American Planning Association has twice (1995 and 2009) deemed it one of the country’s “great public spaces.”

The market is owned by the city and is managed by The Central Market Trust, which consists of community volunteers and the market manager.

Taste the World

Yes, you’ll find local flavor – fresh produce, the finest meat and delectables like sticky buns – at market, but change has been in the air for the last decade or so. Lancaster’s cultural diversity and the adventurous culinary spirit of foodies have helped to transform Central Market into an international phenomenon. Stands such as Delgiorno’s (Italian), Buona Tavola (fresh pasta with an Italian accent), Saife’s (Middle Eastern food and ingredients), Narai (Thai cuisine), Rafiki’s (African cuisine), Stella’s (Greek cuisine), Yasou! (Greek desserts) and Catering by Christina (Puerto Rican cuisine) now join with such long-time standholders as Stoner’s Homegrown Vegetables (100+ years) and Long’s Horseradish (60+ years).

The Greening of Market

Organic, grass-fed and free range are also buzzwords that have become an integral part of market. Foodies whose philosophy goes in those directions will not be disappointed by the offerings of stands such as Brogue Hydroponics, Green Circle Organics, Tulip Tree Hill Farm, Community of Oasis, and Country Meadows Farms.

Only in Lancaster

Then, there are the stands that cater to our peculiarities. Lancastrians are picky about their celery, hence Sweethearts of Lancaster County is the go-to source. Chocolate milk?  Maplehofe Dairy’s is regarded as the best. Turkey jerky? Head for The Turkey Lady.


23 N. Market St., Lancaster

Tuesday & Friday, 6 a.m.-4 p.m.

Saturday, 6 a.m.-2 p.m.

Centralmarketlancaster.com

The Tomato Barn

For tomato connoisseurs, this Washington Boro landmark represents the quintessential taste of summer.

History

In the 1930s, Washington Boro was tomato central. This little slice of Lancaster County was privy to a secret: incredible soil coupled with warm night air (courtesy of the Susquehanna River) created a greenhouse effect (of the good variety) that was conducive to raising tomatoes. At one time, more than 200,000 plants grew along the river’s edge, with the Jet Star variety being the prized crop. Optimal conditions allowed the growers to get a jump start on the season and have tomatoes in consumers’ hands by early June. Washington Boro became a force to be reckoned with in the tomato world, and a co-op was formed among the growers.

There was one drawback: growing tomatoes proved to be labor-intensive. And, once the country recovered from the Depression, the growers’ employees struck out in other directions. Production took a hit until only a handful of growers were left. The Funk family was one of them. Their survival eventually hinged on a grocery chain they began dealing with in the mid-60s. Then, one day in the late 80s, patriarch Steve Funk received a call from the chain’s management, who said Funk’s tomatoes would no longer be needed. The old-fashioned Jet Star had lost its allure due to the fact that hybrid varieties shipped better and had longer shelf lives. Taste was a non-issue.

Things went from bad to worse (Funk’s tomatoes sold for next to nothing at local produce auctions), so Steve prayed for guidance from above. Word came down that he should set up a roadside stand. He did so and took in $50 on an average day, which didn’t exactly pay the bills.

Divine help then arrived in the form of WGAL Meteorologist Joe Calhoun, who was slated to do a noon report from the Boro’s park, which is the site of the now-famed Tomato Festival. Instead, the WGAL news crew mistakenly set up their equipment at Steve’s roadside stand. Word eventually arrived that the festival’s spokespersons were waiting for Joe in the park. It was too late to relocate.

The show had to go on, and so the spokespersons traveled to the roadside stand for the interview. The camera then cut to Steve for his 15 minutes (actually 20 seconds) of fame. In that sound bite, Steve was able to put out the word that he grew the best-tasting tomatoes around.

The next day, Steve took in $800. Word spread and Washington Boro tomatoes were back on the map. According to the taste buds of Lancaster Countians, the Jet Star is the crème de la crème of the tomato world. And, yes, a new grocery chain – Giant – not to mention various farm markets, restaurants and retirement communities, receive deliveries from The Tomato Barn, which is under the direction of a new generation of growers, Steve’s daughter Jen and her husband Tyler Rohrer, who tend to the 12,000 tomato plants that grow on two family-owned farms.

The Taste Sensation

Granted, heirlooms have been all the rage of late, but the good old Jet Star continues to hold its own against the competition. The secret to its long-lasting success is taste (sweet with very little acidity) and composition (tender but meaty). Pair it with bacon, a lovely variety of lettuce, artisan bread and a schmear of mayo, and you have the makings for an incredible BLT. And, you haven’t lived until you’ve tasted The Tomato Barn’s version of salsa.

The Challenge

Tyler notes that this season got off to a slow start due to the cool and wet weather of April and May. Jet Stars don’t like wetness. But, as luck would have it, the crop came into its own just in time for the Tomato Festival in mid-July. If the weather holds, Jet Stars will be available until mid-November.

What’s Available

Since taking over from Steve in 2013, Tyler and Jen have made a few changes. They’ve launched a CSA (their version allows for shareholders to choose what they want) and are experimenting with heirloom tomatoes and a few hybrids. “The taste has certainly gotten better,” Tyler says of hybrids. The tomatoes also provide the makings for The Tomato Barn’s tomato juice, spaghetti sauce and salsa. You’ll also find sweet corn (homegrown and GMO-free), peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, squash, beans, cabbage, melons, berries, peaches and other summertime favorites. “My cousins raise our melons and cantaloupes,” Tyler reports. With fall on our doorstep, apples, cabbage and pumpkins will join the lineup.

Tyler is amazed by the license plates he sees in the parking lot. On any given summer day, tomato lovers arrive from Maryland, New Jersey, Delaware, New York, Virginia and even North Carolina. “We’re kind of off the beaten path, so we’re flattered they seek us out,” he says. The Rohrers also appreciate their local customers. “We have people who come from Mount Joy and Ephrata,” he remarks. “They pass a lot of farm stands along the way, so we appreciate the fact that they come here.”

There’s More

The property is also home to The Goody Barn, which sells ice cream, baked goods, whoopie pies, drinks and handmade soft pretzels. A petting zoo is also on the premises.


65 Penn Street (Route 999)

Washington Boro

684-2597

Thetomatobarn.com