CELEBRATING LANCASTER COUNTY'S PEOPLE, SCENERY,

HERITAGE, STYLE & POINT OF VIEW SINCE 1987.

Oh, Deer!

In recent decades, damage to our ornamental garden plants and the larger landscape caused by white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus) has become an increasingly widespread problem. Once only a rural annoyance, it is now a complaint of suburban gardeners.

The problem is caused by a number of circumstances. The large predators of deer have disappeared because of the clear-cutting for agriculture, which at the same time has created browsing habitat for deer. The deer population is continually losing more of their accustomed haunts due in part to residential subdivisions cropping up everywhere. In the early 1900s, the white-tailed deer population totaled less than 500,000. Today the number of deer is growing, and it is estimated that there are more than 15 million deer in the United States.

A deer will eat between 6 and 10 pounds (2.7 and 4.5 kg) of vegetation a day. A buck requires 4,000-6,000 calories each day, while a lactating doe consumes 4,500 calories daily. When this is taken as buds, leaves, tender shoots and flower parts, the impact on garden plants is overwhelming. Whether deer will target a particular plant species depends on many factors besides palatability: weather conditions, availability of preferred foods, seasonal factors, snow cover, nutritional needs, previous feeding experience, availability of alternate foods and movement patterns.

A plant considered resistant in one part of the country can be ravaged in another. Because deer lack upper incisors, browsed twigs and stems show a rough, shredded surface. Damage caused by rabbits, on the other hand, has a neat, sharp 45-degree cut. Rodents leave narrow teeth marks when feeding on branches. Deer strip the bark and leave no teeth marks.

The antler-rubbing behavior of bucks during early fall is damaging to small hardwood saplings and conifers with stem diameters of under 6 inches. For that reason, it is best to cage the trunks of treasured young trees as the first fall chore.

Caging can help to deter deer from devouring small specimens of conifers during cold-weather months.

Caging can help to deter deer from devouring small specimens of conifers during cold-weather months.

Placing various repellents throughout the garden has been suggested – like bags of hair, fragrant soaps, various herbal and garlic preparations – and there are countless widely marketed commercial concoctions. These methods are usually effective only if the deer pressure is light and, even then, most work only temporarily. The only dependable remedy is to exclude the deer with tall fences, an expensive and often unsightly solution. Smaller specimens can be protected with chicken-wire cages. Dogs, especially beagles, are often effective provided they are in the garden at night.

Another strategy is planning your garden space by placing susceptible plants only in protected areas, perhaps close to the house, in a fenced yard, or in a ring of less-preferred species or barrier plants.

Deer develop predictable travel patterns, and prior damage is a good indicator of potential future problems. New plantings will likely be susceptible. Deer especially like fertilized plantings!

In my country garden, it seems the deer have completely lost their fear of structures and people and boldly browse within a few feet of my windows. I have learned to tolerate a certain level of deer damage.

Strategizing

Conifers provide structure in our gardens throughout the year and are among the longest-lived (and costliest to replace) plants in our landscape. Damage to them is particularly upsetting because many never recover their natural form. Landscaping with deer-resistant species is a necessary option. On this month’s Gardening Journey, I offer a list of conifers to consider when one is forced to share gardening space with marauding deer. However, readers should keep in mind that lists of “deer-resistant” plants are always a matter of dispute.

Deer Candy

Unquestionably their favorite conifers are YEW (Taxus) and EASTERN ARBORVITAE (Thuja occidentalis). Fortunately, yew will sprout from bare wood. Arborvitae will recover if some foliage remains, however, it will not resprout from bare wood.

Seldom Browsed by Deer

FIRS (Abies) are a good choice. Some to consider: Abies concolor ‘Candicans’ is one of the bluest conifers and far superior to the over-used Colorado spruce; Abies koreana ‘Silberlocke’ offers tightly curved-in silvery foliage and purple cones; Abies nordmanniana is stately and elegant. For a slow-growing, spreading, bright golden-yellow cultivar, look for ‘Golden Spreader.’

CEDARS (Cedrus) are another option. Cedrus atlantica, the blue-atlas cedar, is the hardiest, while ‘Glauca’ and ‘Glauca Pendula’ are the most popular, though often poorly placed. With global climate change, Cedrus deodara is worth trying. Great cultivars include the landscape-sized ‘Karl Fuchs’ and ‘Kashmir.’ For the home garden, consider ‘Devinely Blue,’ a wide-spreading and flat-topped mound, and ‘Feelin Blue,’ a dwarf, spreading form. Alaska-cedar (Xanthocyparis nootkatensis Syn:Chamaecyparis nootkatensis) ‘Green Arrow’ is a narrow form with branches that sweep straight downward. ‘Pendula’ is an elegant, weeping, landscape tree.

Hinoki false-cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa) is enjoyed for its rich, dark-green foliage that is held in short flat sprays; there is a cultivar for every possible design, from a small container to a 50-foot tree. Rather adaptable to heat and drought conditions. ‘Crippsii’ is a slow-growing accent with ferny, golden-yellow foliage; ‘Nana Gracilis’ is a universally admired selection that reaches only 3 feet.

JAPANESE-CEDAR (Cryptomeria japonica) is appreciated for its graceful habit, shade tolerance and beautiful foliage. ‘Black Dragon’ is an upright cultivar; and ‘Globosa Nana’ is broadly rounded. Best choices for larger specimens are ‘Rein’s Dense Jade’ and ‘Yoshino’ (however, this year the deer were browsing the tender growth on young specimens in my garden).

Leyland cypress (×Cupressocyparis leylandii) is versatile, adaptable, salt-tolerant and very fast-growing for purposes of creating a quick screen or hedging. Must be planted in the spring. ‘Naylor’s Blue’ is true to its name (ditto this past winter).

GAINT ARBORVITAE (Thuja plicata) is very handsome for the home landscape with luxuriant, wide-sweeping boughs. It handles snow and ice well and is good for hedging with its single-stem habit. ‘Green Giant’ is a vigorous hybrid.

HEMLOCK (Tsuga), the state tree of Pennsylvania, is valued for its fine texture and shade tolerance; however, the species is not recommended because of its unrelenting demise from a pest, woolly adelgid. Dwarf choices that could be sprayed by the home gardener include ‘Bennett,’ ‘Cole’s Prostrate,’ ‘Everitt’s Golden’ and ‘Pendula.’

Almost Never Browsed by Deer

PLUM-YEW (Cephalotaxus). A shade-tolerant understory shrub, C. harringtonia ‘Fastigiata’ is markedly upright, formal in appearance and slow-growing. ‘Korean Gold’ is similar with yellow new growth. ‘Prostrata’ is low-growing, spreading 3 to 6 feet.

SAWARA-CYPRESS (Chamaecyparis pisiferi). Many cultivars are commonly available. ‘Boulevard’ is dense with soft, silver-blue foliage and benefits from shearing. ‘Filifera Aurea,’ ‘Gold Spangle,’ ‘Lemon Thread,’ ‘Golden Mop’ and others have golden-yellow, pendulous, string-like foliage.

JUNIPER (Juniperus ssp). Countless cultivars are to be had for public and private gardens. Almost all have prickly foliage and are undemanding in cultivation, provided they have full sun and good drainage. Exceptional selections are J. virginiana ‘Corcorcor’ Emerald Sentinel™, narrow and conical, remaining a rich green all year and reaching 25-30 feet. ‘Grey Owl’ exhibits soft, silver-gray foliage, abundant cones and wide-spreading shrub.

SIBERIAN CYPRESS (Microbiota decussata) is very cold hardy with low, wide-spreading, fine-textured, lacy foliage in flat sprays. Tolerates high shade. Nice for slopes, it is underused.

SPRUCE (Picea). The exception is the oriental spruce, P. orientalis, possibly because of its softer needles. A noteworthy choice for the home garden is P. omorika ‘Pendula Bruns.’
Pines (Pinus). This past harsh winter, for the first time, I had damage on the tip growth of pines which, unfortunately, will not recover.
Douglas-fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii).

Deer were an important food source for Native Americans before the colonization by Europeans. Hunting by native tribes was effective in keeping a balance between the population and their plant supply. With the clearing of land for agriculture and the elimination of their natural prey, deer and forests were almost eliminated. In the early 20th century, the state forest system was established, the designated land regenerated, deer were reintroduced, and their population rapidly expanded. About the same time, doe management was introduced, and by the 1930s large portions of the state were experiencing severe habitat damage. Deer populations peaked in the 1970s and has been out of balance ever since.

In recent years our forest understory has been dominated by species that the deer do not prefer: beech, mountain laurel and huckleberry. Also, exotic invasives have moved in: multiflora rose, honeysuckle, and autumn olive. Federal studies of forested areas in northern Pennsylvania reveal there is not enough new native growth to replace the existing forest. In addition, many wildlife species are affected by the elimination of their desired habitat.

Repellents

These should be applied before deer become habituated to your plants and will need to be regularly reapplied. This method only works when the damage risk is low. There are numerous recipes for homemade concoctions (usually involving garlic, eggs and hot pepper sauce), but success is questionable especially during late winter and early spring. Commercial repellents are usually odor- or taste-based and must not be used on plants intended for human consumption. They most often contain active ingredients of urine, putrescent egg solids and dried blood.

Soap and Hair

Bars of soap or unwashed cut hair placed in cheesecloth and hung from shrubs have inconsistent success.

Fences

Fence options include wire, plastic or electric. Fences must be at least 7-feet high and in contact with the ground to keep deer out. For years I’ve circled smaller treasured plants in plastic mesh fencing. When circling a plant, the mesh must be taut, or it will collapse with snow or ice. I’ve used 6-foot rebars and zip-ties with general success. Electric fences marked with ribbons and baited with peanut butter can be very effective but are generally not practical for suburban gardens.

Scare Tactics

Dogs that are out at night can be very effective, but this usually means the property will need an invisible fence system for the animals’ security. Other methods usually work for only a limited period of time: yard lights, loud radios, shiny objects and motion-activated water sprinklers.

I Said YES … Now What?

I know a lot of time and money are spent planning a wedding (because I’m actually in the process of planning my own), but SO much has changed not only in the past 50 years, but also within the past decade.

The proposal of marriage predates ancient times (we’re talking thousands and thousands of years ago). Marriages have come quite a long ways: from uniting a male and female only for the purpose of producing offspring to lifting bans on same-sex marriages and even performing marriages between humans and animals or inanimate objects. In earlier times—biblical times—men and women would marry their cousins or siblings. Today, couples meet their significant other while attending school, parties, the work place, popular restaurants or club-like venues, and even online (which is what happened in my case).

The choice of one’s wedding depends solely upon the person(s) getting married. From lavish to limited and outrageous to ordinary, weddings vary and will continue to change through time’s revolving door. My mom’s wedding consisted of her brothers, a sister-in-law, brother-in-law, cousins, close friends, family and church members. The bridesmaids donned different pastels to form a rainbow-themed procession. She was given away by her brother and married by her father (the late Rev. J.C. Ganey) to my dad, Roger Webster. Two daughters, two grandkids and numerous pets later, the happy couple will celebrate 40 years of living happily ever after on July 19.

My sister’s fairytale wedding in 2003 was an elaborate occasion, complete with classical instruments, an a cappella song tribute to husband Scott, an ice sculpture and a horse-and-buggy exit. The church was lined wall to wall with guests, with some standing out in the foyer and down the steps. Heather, my favorite and only sibling, jokes with me now, saying, “I wasn’t able to eat at my own wedding, so I’m going to make sure that I eat at yours.” She and Scott celebrated their 12-year anniversary back in March and have the two most beautiful children (I’m a little biased).

For my wedding, I have all of these wonderful and brilliant ideas, but my problem is finding the time to sit down and decide on what ideas I want to use. Dress … check! Venue … check! Everything else … No clue! I have friends and family offering help and sending me ideas, phone numbers, websites, etc., which is awesome; however, I get so overwhelmed sometimes that I put the wedding “to-do” list on hold and just try to enjoy my weekly routines of cleaning the apartment, going to work, spending time with my fiancé and his amazing, little threenager daughter, Danielle (who is 3 going on 13, at times).

I am, however, 100 % certain about these five facts:

  • I will make decisions about my wedding that I will be pleased with. Everything might not go as planned on that special day, but I am the one who will make the decisions and live with them.
  • I will spend tons of money on just a one-day celebration. But, that one day is all about me and will be the only day for the rest of my life where I am all dolled up and my every whim is catered to.
  • Even though it will be one of the happiest moments in my life, it will also be one of the saddest. I’ve always been Briana Webster (initials, BMW). Throughout school, college, occupations, I’ve been known as Briana Webster (sometimes Miss Webstar, Webdog and little Webbie). My father never had a son, so I was the closest thing to a son he could ever have (I was a huge tomboy growing up, still am to an extent). It will be a bittersweet moment when we are pronounced Mr. & Mrs. Hess!
  • There will be dancing … Lots and lots of joyous dancing. And, of course, food!
  • I have never met nor envisioned being with anyone other than my future husband-to-be, Justin. I honestly thought I would grow old, focusing on my career and living with my 6-year-old pug, Puddles, for the rest of my life in either Alabama or one of the surrounding SEC states. I had, honestly, been considering adoption on down the road if I wanted a small family of my own one day. I was content with my life, but I wasn’t happy. I had never felt true happiness in my post-adolescent years until I met him. I’m so thankful “to be stuck with him,” as he tells me. I look forward to a very blessed future together.

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Whisked Back into History

On October 13, 2014, three guys and a lady got together in the dimly lit lower level of Thistle Finch Distillery in Lancaster. This actually marked the dawn of a new day in the history of Pennsylvania distilling. A whiskey was reincarnated. With a little help from friends, Bomberger’s Distillery – the entity once responsible for moving whiskey production from agricultural offshoot to entrepreneurial industry – regained its foothold in the annals of whiskey tradition.

Dick Stoll, once the master distiller of the celebrated Michter’s and A. H. Hirsch whiskies, stood over a barrel of premium bourbon. Husband-and-wife team Erik and Avianna Wolfe, along with Andrew Martin of Thistle Finch, stood closely by as the brown liquid flowed steadily into a stainless-steel vat; inside, batch No. 1 of Bomberger’s Distillery’s blend of American straight whiskies was mixing. The result, less than a year later, was a success … as many suspected.

The upstart company began as a means not only to resurrect a brand, but also to preserve a piece of history. The historical roots of Bomberger’s date back to 1753, when local farmers John and Michael Shenk began using their excess rye to make whiskey. The name of the distillery, eventually located just outside of Schaefferstown, dates to 1860, when Abraham Bomberger purchased the flourishing operation.

“Pennsylvania was rye whiskey,” says Dick, making an understatement as much as a point. The tradition is rich – especially with rye whiskey – and pre-dates the whiskey rebellion, which also helped create the eventual demise of Pennsylvania whiskey dominance. “Many of the distillers didn’t want to pay the tax, and they left Western Pennsylvania for Kentucky.”

His portrait isn’t plastered over the Internet (or on whiskey bottles like some old granddad), and he doesn’t have a Wikipedia page, but Dick Stoll is a living legend when it comes to whiskey – especially Pennsylvania whiskey. A bourbon drinker, Dick came home to Pennsylvania in 1954, after serving in the U.S. Navy as a combat air crewman and aviation structural mechanic, specializing in anti-submarine warfare. He returned home to find jobs scarce.

“I started as a ditch digger. Eventually I did any little job I could do,” he recalls. He ultimately landed a job at the distillery he was laying the foundation for, and soon was running the barrel gang – cutting the whiskey, filling the barrels and moving them to the warehouse. The distillery changed hands and was renamed Michter’s. A job with the maintenance crew provided him with employment for 20 years.

Over this time he became good friends with the distillery’s top man, Charles Everett Beam (of the renowned Beam family tree of whiskey producers), who made sure Dick learned every aspect of the facility, from sweeping the floors to choosing quality grain. When Beam suffered a heart attack and left the distillery, the company tapped Dick to take over as master distiller. This was 1972.

“I learned a lot from C. Everett Beam,” says Dick, which is surely an understatement. He only changed the yeast the distillery used; a specific strain of the alcohol-producing microrganisms owned and produced by the Beam family was subsequently no longer available to Michter’s. Whiskey rolled on – sometimes at paces quicker than others – until 1989. Michter’s shareholders took their name and moved production to Kentucky. The original distillery, which is located off Route 501, just over the Lebanon County line, fell into neglect. Most of the edifice is now gone.

“We are talking about the most award-winning bourbon in history, and it was distilled in Pennsylvania,” says Erik about the A. H. Hirsch whiskey. “Dick is the one person who is the link back to that production style. That knowledge has been an unbroken chain for hundreds of years, and our goal is to work with Dick to preserve that knowledge. He represents not just a place in whiskey making, but an era.”

The new era is an eventual functioning distillery and museum dedicated to Pennsylvania’s distilling history. While preserving his whiskey era, Dick looked first to create an aged and smooth blend for the new Bomberger’s product. What makes a good whiskey? “Good grain to start with and a little dedication from the person making it. That’s about it, basically,” says Dick.

Bomberger’s is now on the shelf, and a distinction has to be made between a whiskey blend and a blended whiskey. A whiskey blend like Bomberger’s is the carefully considered combination of a pair of aged whiskies. A blended whiskey – so commonly found on bar shelves around the world – is a mixture of mostly unaged whiskey and neutral grain spirits (purified ethanol). To create their whiskey blend, Dick  and Erik set out in 2014 to try a number of samples from distillers. They researched whiskey-makers big and small. The resulting blend is 89%, 2-year-old bourbon and 11%, 3-year-old rye.

“We went for a younger blend and worked toward a more upfront flavor. Just rye or just bourbon would never have this flavor. It is the blending that makes it unique,” says Erik. “There’s a big difference between a blended whiskey and blend of whiskey” and Bomberger’s is the latter, Dick points out.

Young bourbon has a tendency to be harsh, so the partners were eager to incorporate a straight rye whiskey to add more floral elements. The bourbon (which also includes rye, raising the total rye content in Bomberger’s to 41%) comes from a Midwest wholesale producer, while the straight rye whiskey is from a small distiller in the Finger Lakes region of New York.

“Whiskey blends were something more popular prior to Prohibition,” explains Erik. “There was enough whiskey out there; people would just buy whiskey and blend the stocks. Now, whiskey is so hard to come by, and not many people are blending it.”

Many regional craft distillers showed interest in helping Bomberger’s, but the boom in whiskey popularity – spurred by a spike in demand for classic cocktails and quality spirits  – quickly depleted availability. So, the group rested on Dick’s knowledge and experience.

“Walk first,” is the advice he gave to the fledgling distillery, which Dick, along with wife Elaine and the Wolfes (Erik is a Lititz native who worked in marketing in New York, while Avianna has a background in restaurants) are partners at Heritage Spirits – producers of Bomberger’s Whiskies. “I’m not computer literate. I know how to make whiskey the old-fashioned way. That’s all it is.”

“I don’t know many people who have this kind of work ethic at this age. I mean, you’ve forgotten more than most people know,” says Erik to Dick, who is lifting an almost-empty barrel of whiskey during the blending. Watching them interact, it appears they are more like lifelong friends than business partners. It’s at the point where Erik finishes Dick’s sentences, and Dick adds bits of historical fact to Erik’s orations.

Comfortable in the surroundings of a distillery, Dick seems at home near the stills. Things are smaller now. In the majority of public opinion, craft has taken over for quantity. Whiskey today is more scientific than in 1954 (let alone 1753). Evidently, Bomberger’s is trying to do things a little more old school.

“We are trying to do the right thing. It’s fairly commonplace now for a company to try and fit a square peg into a round hole to make a profit. We want to take the time to do it right,” says Erik. Right is right. The first two bottlings of Bomberger’s – 350 cases of 750 ml bottles of whiskey – went as fast as they could be filled. The group has their sights set on locations in Lititz to open their distillery (with many thanks to Martin and his Thistle Finch facility) in late summer or fall of 2015. Future plans call for making many things distilled by Heritage Spirits, but Dick wants any whiskey he has his hands on to be aged at least two years, preferably four – because there is a big difference between two and four he says. Either way, Bomberger’s Whiskies is officially back. It is back in Pennsylvania. That is huge for a state that once was known for its rye.

“The blend will stay for the foreseeable future,” says Avianna, who hints at an eventual all-rye whiskey and an apple jack in the distillery’s future. First things first: keep a quality product – and its history – alive.

For more information, visit Bombergersdistillery.com.
Thistle Finch is located at 417 W. Grant St. in Lancaster. Thistlefinch.com.

Enjoy the Bounty of the County

Ma(i)son bills itself as an intimate, farm-driven, urban cookery, and it delivers on all counts. Prior to opening its doors nearly four years ago, owners Taylor and Leeann Mason not only put great thought into the restaurant’s name and concept, but they also re-imagined the dining experience in painstaking detail.

We want people to feel that they’re dining in our home, and for the first year and a half, that was the case – we lived upstairs,” Taylor explains. “Here you’re being welcomed and taken care of rather than served. As for the name, it’s a contrived word. Our last name is Mason, and with the added ‘i’ it’s the French word for house, so in essence it’s Mason’s house.”

The BYOB restaurant seats 30; For warm weather dining, a plant-filled sidewalk terrace seats four. “The terrace is a great spot with a really European feel. That vibe carries through the restaurant since we’ll have the doors open,” he says.

Tables and a long banquette along one wall provide seating. There’s room for two at the chef’s table by the open kitchen. A wall covered in rustic barn wood sports a chalkboard that announces the daily bill of fare with eight to 10 first courses listed on the left, and four or five entrées on the right side. “I’ve gotten much better at writing on the chalkboard since we’ve added it,” Taylor jokes. “For us, the chalkboard is perfect – we focus on local ingredients, so our menu changes daily. It’s easier to use the chalkboard rather than print new menus every day.”

Ma(i)son has its own culinary garden thanks to the close collaboration between Taylor and local grower Alex Wenger. They poured over seed catalogs in January to determine this year’s produce offerings. The garden is the source of nearly 80% of the restaurant’s ingredients. Jars of preserved items are scattered along the ledge above the banquette. They not only add a touch to the décor, but they’re also used for off-season meal preparation.

“We work with what we grow here in Lancaster County. Our focus is on vegetables; we want them to taste fresh. There’s a lot of soul satisfaction in growing the food you serve – the ingredients are touched by two hands: Alex’s and mine,” Taylor asserts.

Ma(i)son is a member of the Slow Food Movement, which is rooted in Europe. “It’s all about taking the time to enjoy your food and preserving the flavors of regional cooking. For us, it’s also about buying and cooking products you care about,” he explains. That philosophy of caring is pervasive throughout the restaurant, extending to the water glasses made from the lower part of wine bottles to the dinner check that’s presented in vintage Italian leather wallets rather than the customary nondescript black folder.

Everything at Ma(i)son is made from scratch, including the European-style country loaf bread and its accompanying butter. Although items change daily, one of two menu staples is the handmade burrata (roasted Brussels sprouts, slow-cooked smoked prosciutto and onion soffrito, grilled house-made bread, extra virgin olive oil). A recent menu included pan-roasted rock fish and beef cheeks with parsnips, which is reflective of the winter menu that features richer, layered dishes. Spring and summer menus are more about bright, simple, clean flavors.

The Masons are planning to create a casual, rustic, wood-fired Italian “osteria” at a new, larger site located at 436 W. James Street by summer’s end. It will not only have space for more guests, but also a larger prep and cooking area. Taylor and Leeann lived in Napa Valley for several years, and they’re excited by the opportunity they will have to share their knowledge of wines with guests through the new wine selections. Ma(i)son will remain a BYOB establishment, while the new restaurant on James will have a full bar and full liquor license, as well as a wood-burning oven and grill.

Ma(i)son, 230 N. Prince St., Lancaster, 293-5060, Maisonlancaster.com. Hours are Wednesday through Saturday, 5-11 p.m. Two seatings are offered: 5-6:30 p.m. and 7:45-8:30 p.m. BYOB. Reservations are highly suggested. 

Community space and vegetarian café, The Seed serves as the hub for the progressive community in Lancaster. Brunch is served until 1 p.m. Menu items include sandwiches, paninis, salads, vegan soups made fresh daily and vegan baked goods, such as cookies and cupcakes. Menu items can be made vegan.

■ Fresh Farms Café, 621 Harrisburg Ave., Lancaster, 517-8850, freshfarmscafe.com. Fresh Farms is committed to serving guests the freshest, healthiest and most natural foods possible. The focus is on organic, farm-to-table, and all fresh products. Foods are made fresh daily. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served. Menu features salads, flatbread pizzas, 100% Angus burgers, wraps, paninis, coffees, frappes and smoothies. Catering is available. Hours recently expanded and are now 8 a.m.-8 p.m. daily.

■ John J. Jeffries, 300 Harrisburg Ave. (Lancaster Arts Hotel), Lancaster, 431-3307, johnjjeffries.com. Chef Sean Cavanaugh and Chef Michael Carson focus on seasonal, sustainable farm-fresh dining. Local organic meats and vegetables are featured. Bar and wine menus feature a selection of local beers and wines; unique cocktails feature local ingredients.

■ The Seed, 52 N. Queen St., Lancaster, 945-5787, theseedlancaster.coop. A worker-owned, collectively managed,Several other restaurants throughout the county also have a farm-to-table/organic focus, including:

Summer Kitchen Renaissance

The summer kitchen is regarded as the original outdoor-cooking space. Prior to the arrival of electricity, the summer kitchen was used for cooking purposes in warm-weather months. That tradition is being revitalized with the popularity of outdoor kitchens.

Summer kitchens took the shape of small, open-sided buildings or sheds. Typically located near the main house, they were used for all aspects of cooking, including meal prep, canning, pickling and meat processing. Style-wise, they tended to complement other structures on the property. After the arrival of electricity, the need for such structures waned, and they became a part of history.

But, the tradition of the summer kitchen is enjoying a renaissance. Outdoor kitchens have become an integral part of the trend to move summertime living into the great outdoors.

The project seen here exemplifies that trend. The homeowners live on a 20-acre property that includes period-look outbuildings and a scenic pond that is a favorite play area for their grandchildren. Wanting to watch over them, their grandmother would supervise their activities from a nearby gazebo.

Noting how pleasant the area is, she suggested they replace the gazebo with something more multifunctional. The idea appealed to her husband, who always wanted an outdoor kitchen. So, they turned to Renovations by Garman for ideas on how their diverse wish lists could be merged. “They had ideas for its use and function, but aesthetically, we had a blank canvas to work with,” says Fred Heim, who is  the company’s vice president of operations.

Fred took note of the period-look buildings on the property and surmised the summer-kitchen approach would perfectly complement them. “We wanted to design something that looked as if it had always been there,” he explains. “It would have looked odd to come up the driveway and see something that looked new,” he adds.

The open-air building looks as if it could be a repurposed farmhouse. Composed of brick and stone, the 18×25-foot structure is outfitted with a kitchen, fireplace (with ovens for making pizza and smoking meat), dining space and sitting areas. A soaring peaked ceiling adds to the spaciousness of the structure.  Open doorways provide access to the grounds and adjacent patio. The back of the structure is partially open, providing a panoramic view of the pond and surrounding countryside. The stamped-concrete floor resembles wood planks you would see in a barn. “If there was a project that called for it, it was this one,” says Fred, noting that the overall design made both parties happy. “The design bridged the gap of their ideas,” he says.

Outdoor Living Trends 2015

If the NAHB International Builders Show, which was held in Las Vegas in January, is any indication, outdoor-living spaces are essential to American lifestyles. What was trending in Vegas?

Rooftop Decks … If you can’t expand outward, go upward. California

Rooms … The perfect transition between indoor and outdoor spaces.

Disappearing Walls …A new generation of glass walls that move, fold and disappear allows spaces to span the seasons.

Stainless Cabinetry …The crème de la crème for outdoor kitchens comes courtesy of a collaborative effort between Danver Stainless Outdoor Kitchens and Brown Jordan. Key West styling was introduced in Vegas. Total Outdoor

Kitchens … Grills have been joined by smokers, stovetops, pizza ovens, warming drawers, refrigeration, dishwashers, trash compactors, etc.

Sophisticated Seating … Plush seating is made possible with upholstery made from fade and weather-resistant fabrics.

Entertainment …Video and audio systems made for outdoor environs abound.

Fire … Fireplaces, fire pits and fire bowls take the chill off or simply create ambiance.

Layered lighting … Layering creates the mood, ensures safety and provides security.

Concrete … Stamped concrete continues to evolve, offering more in the way of decorative designs and textures.

Water … From simple fountains to elaborate pools, water delivers a calming effect.

Living borders … trees, conifers and other plantings provide beauty, privacy and a noise buffer for outdoor living spaces.

Color of the Year … 2015 is being defined by Marsala, an earthy red that pairs equally well with soft, natural hues or with bright and bold colors. It’s the background color for this feature.

Spring is in the Air!

April has finally arrived. I can’t tell you how excited I am to watch the cold, vacant pastures of the countryside once again start the cycle of life.

I captured this month’s photo of spring lambs behind the Countryside Road-Stand in Ronks last year. It’s one of my regular stops along Stumptown Road, which is just south of Leola. When the weather breaks, I like to go there and get myself a soft pretzel and a milkshake. Or, sometimes I get a fresh loaf of bread, some jam and a lemonade. Then, I travel about a quarter mile to the William Morton Bird Sanctuary that sits across Newport Road from the Mascot Roller Mill and Ressler Family Home. I like to sit along the banks of Mill Creek and enjoy my snack as the fresh air blows through. I might even drop a hook in the water to see if I get a nibble.

Since the area is literally in my own “backyard,” a large segment of my photos are representative of the countryside between Leola, Intercourse and Bird-in-Hand. Now, I can already imagine a few of you locals rolling your eyes at the idea of playing backyard tourist in Amish country. I’m here to tell you that driving around the countryside is a great way to spend a spring day, whether you’re from Leola or Buffalo. Just roll down the windows, turn on some tunes and enjoy the fact that spring is in the air. Besides being gorgeous, the area is also filled with lots of great family-owned shops, roadside stands, greenhouses, antiques shops, historic sites and even a petting zoo at Hayloft Candles on Groffdale Road. I always seem to find something interesting that you just can’t find anywhere else.

Feel free to follow along on my blog at amishroadshow.com. I’ll be wandering these roads every day and sharing my best photos daily!

Clay Soil

Choice is not an option where soil is concerned. It comes with the house. While I don’t garden on clay soil, it’s among the most common gardening challenges – well, complaints – I hear from those who do.

There is no need to feel cursed. Clay soil doesn’t represent the overwhelming problem that some people imagine. You can learn to love your garden by putting time into soil preparation and devoting thought to your choice of plants. It is possible to grow a beautiful, healthy garden on clay.

First, you will need to put those glossy British gardening books aside, acknowledge what you’re working with and accept some realistic goals. By keeping at it over the years – adding organic matter and working with the soil structure – you can get the better of clay and have a garden that is the envy of the loamy crowd. It will also be important to choose plants that tolerate the conditions clay imposes.

Elemental Soil Science

Clay is often reddish in color. It absorbs water slowly and holds it for long periods, making it slow to dry out and warm up in the spring. There is a tendency to clump. If it’s allowed to bake in the heat of summer, it forms a hard, impermeable crust that’s difficult to rehydrate, which is why clay is great for making pottery. Clay makes shoveling and digging holes difficult. And, it sticks to shoes and garden implements. If clay soil is sticking to your shovel, stop working. It’s an indication that it is too wet, and you will only compound the problem by making it more compacted. If your soil is perpetually boggy, it is especially important to select plants that will tolerate this condition.

Gardeners need to be sure their helpers don’t walk through the beds when they are wet; this causes the soil to be compressed into the structure of bricks. And, although it goes against one’s impulse, clay soil should never be over cultivated (for instance, with a roto-tiller).

Clay does have some attributes. It is a fact that clay soils are more fertile than many other soil types (for example, sandy soil can’t hold a lot of nutrients). Because clay soil tends to hold water for long periods of time, less watering is needed. We have a tendency to over water our gardens, which is the single biggest cause of plants dying. (Watch for persistent wet spots after rain or watering.) The best plan for watering clay is deeply and less frequently. Be careful with automatic sprinkler systems.

Clay also doesn’t require the use of fertilizers. If you choose to use a fertilizer, apply lightly because clay holds onto fertilizers well. In fact, we should all avoid using fertilizers thoughtlessly as they eventually run off into our groundwater. When necessary, consider using an organic liquid fertilizer like fish emulsion or a slow-release fertilizer. Over-fertilized plants tend to be more susceptible to insect and disease problems because they are weakened by their accelerated growth.

Clay soils provide a basis for perennials to get their roots into. Unlike sandy soils, there is a minimum of heaving with cycles of freezing and thawing.

Although clay soils are high in minerals and nutrients, they need to be amended with organic matter such as shredded leaves, leaf mould, compost and well-rotted manure. This helps to make nutrients available to plant roots and at the same time aerates the soil, improving its tilth or texture. An annual top dressing of several inches of organic matter into the soil surface in late spring or early autumn is essential. Remember: Good compost is integral to your clay soil management plan. If you haven’t done so yet, get composting!

One might think that adding sand to clay would loosen it up, but all that does is produce cement. Some have reported that coarse builder’s sand helps; however, huge quantities are required.

Despite your best efforts, the fact is you are left to deal with clay soil. It is best to select plants that can cope with it. This is most important when planting trees because it is impossible to amend enough soil for their extensive root systems. Wet clay soil is low in oxygen. Plant trees on slopes that will drain. It is more important to dig a wide hole rather than a deep one. Select tree species that you’ve seen growing in swampy areas.

If all of this sounds daunting, consider improving your existing or new planting areas in small increments, observing which plants have done well through several seasons and continue to add them. Remember, it’s the fashion now to plant in drifts!

City Hall is a Happening Place

City Hall Gallery

Keeping with Lancaster’s role as an art mecca, City Hall has unveiled its own art gallery. Open since late 2014, City Hall Gallery will be offering exhibits throughout the year. Visitors may view the art weekdays from 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m. or during First Friday, when the gallery remains open until 8:30 p.m.

The current exhibit, which runs through April, features the vivid and colorful artwork of artist Sadradeen Ameen, who hails from Kirkuk, Iraq, and moved to Lancaster in 2001. Sadradeen, who has received a number of local and international awards for his work, refers to his art as “expressions full of modernity; they are also childish dreams in color, expressive of the sweet passing of the beauty, the symbols and the myths of old civilization.” Sadradeen will be in the gallery on First Friday, April 3.

Local artists interested in exhibiting their work in the gallery can email their biography, artist statement and digital images of proposed art to Public Art Manager Tracy Beyl (tbeyl@cityoflancasterpa.com). Artists are selected by a subcommittee of the Public Art Advisory Board. Exhibits rotate every two months. Featured artists and Public Art Advisory Board members greet visitors at First Friday openings.
Location: City Hall Annex, 120 N. Duke Street.

Information: visitlancastercity.com or cityoflancasterpa.com.

 

Raising the “Green” Standard

Submitted by: Derek M. Smith

Mayor Rick Gray (left) and Gordy Kautz survey the “living roof” that was installed atop Lancaster City Hall’s 18,000-square-foot annex.

Mayor Rick Gray (left) and Gordy Kautz survey the “living roof” that was installed atop Lancaster City Hall’s 18,000-square-foot annex.

Constructed in 1892, the municipal building located at 120 N. Duke St. has not seen a renovation since the 1970s. The historic building’s recent $10-million overhaul included substantial steps to improve its environmental impact, including energy-efficient lighting, heating and cooling systems, as well as upgraded electrical and plumbing systems.

The most unique of these measures is the “green” vegetative roof on the building’s new 18,000-square-foot annex. This “green” roof is a combination of traditional waterproof roofing systems combined with live plants. It is not only aesthetically pleasing, but also energy saving and earth-friendly.

Constructed by Kautz Construction, a local firm founded in 1993, and its subsidiary, KC Green Roofing, the project utilized the Live Roof Hybrid Green Roof System, which continues to set the standard in the industry.
“This hybrid system is installed in fully grown modules,” explains Gordy Kautz, general manager of Kautz Construction. “When in place, these individual modules become virtually invisible and remain in place while allowing water to flow under them to the drains on the roof. The live vegetation and soil medium capture a vast majority of the rainfall. The fully-grown vegetation greatly diminishes the start-up time of other systems.”

In addition, the live roof was installed over a Duro-Last PVC white membrane roof system that is in itself considered a green roof because of its white reflective color. According to Gordy Kautz, “It is Energy Star rated and recyclable.”

“This is all part of growing as energy efficient as possible,” explains Lancaster Mayor Rick Gray. “Lancaster, for a city of its size, has more square footage per capita of green roofs of any other city in the United States. If we are recommending this to the private sector, we should certainly be doing it ourselves.”

Green Savings

  • Vegetative roofing systems can amount to significant energy savings. The natural insulation provided by the plants convert heat and retained moisture into humidity, which creates natural cooling through evaporation. Additionally, that same retention during the winter acts to keep warmth within a building.
  • With recent regulations concerning rain runoff to limit contaminants to local water systems, the benefits of the vegetative roof become more apparent beyond the scope of mere energy conservation. For example, the annex’s roof absorbs rainwater, reducing the storm water flow to Lancaster’s wastewater treatment plant.
  • In an urban environment, impermeable surfaces such as rooftops, streets, sidewalks, and other paved surfaces that dominate the landscape prevent rainwater from naturally absorbing into the ground. As a result, approximately 75% of rainwater runs into the city sewer systems.
  • Ultimately, the vegetative roof may reduce conventional roof maintenance by extending the lifetime of the roof by up to 200%. The plants naturally protect the rooftop from ultraviolet rays, temperature fluctuation, wind and other damaging occurrences.

Information: kautzconstruction.com and kcgreenroofing.com.

Spring on a Plate

Spring could not have come sooner! No doubt you’ve been dreaming of longer, sunnier days, birds chirping, grass re-greening and flowers blooming. And, we can finally bid farewell to winter fare and embrace those culinary harbingers of spring: asparagus, artichokes, fennel, spring lamb, new potatoes and more.

Fresh Artichoke Salad

Fresh Spring Salad

One of the best ways to showcase the earthy fresh flavors of the spring ingredients that are just starting to emerge is with a salad of local greens. Tender greens, such as the watercress I used, are popping up everywhere: out in the fields, in hoop houses and on hydroponic farms such as Brogue Hydroponics, which is located in Southern York County. Brogue has been growing lettuces and greens since 1983. Beginning with one greenhouse dedicated to butterhead lettuce, the operation now extends to six greenhouses in which a wide selection of lettuces, herbs, edible flowers, tomatoes and more are grown hydroponically, i.e. plants are grown in a nutrient-rich water solution. If you dine out a lot, no doubt you’ve sampled Brogue Hydroponic’s products, as they work with many restaurants in South Central PA. Be sure to visit their stand at Central Market (Broguehydroponics.com).

There’s no shortage of supporting ingredients to drive that taste of spring home.

Artichokes are a must in my book, and since they aren’t something you will find growing around here, locally speaking, there’s no better time than the present to indulge in California’s bounty. The Golden State is cranking out plenty of these amazing thistles. A little time spent in the morning frost makes them even sweeter!  Trimmed, quartered and poached, they add meaty substance to greens and go so well with other spring ingredients, such as lemon, fresh herbs and green garlic. Shaved watermelon radish, named after their resemblance to a slice of watermelon when cross sectioned, adds a bit of sweet, crunchy, horseradish-y heat. The final ingredient, hardboiled eggs, adds a little protein, making this salad equally at home as a hearty appetizer or light entrée.  Fresh herbs and mustard dressing bring it all together.

White Asparagus Soup

White Asparagus Soup

What would spring cooking be without asparagus?  White, green and even purple varieties are popping up, and there’s nothing better than a simple preparation to highlight the flavors of spears that have been freshly snapped off that morning.

White asparagus is sweated with onion in a little butter, covered lightly with fresh chicken broth and then simmered until tender.  The asparagus is pureed at high speed until silky and smooth, and then it’s finished with a touch of cream, a little lemon and fresh chive garnish. Paper-thin shavings of fresh asparagus tips and a touch of truffle oil finish the soup, along with a healthy sprinkling of black pepper.

Grilled Leg of Lamb Steak

Grilled Leg of Lamb Steak

Leg of lamb is one of my favorite meats, thanks to all the flavors that come from the different muscle types, the rich fat layers that melt into the meat, the bone, etc. But, unless it’s cut up, leg of lamb can be a commitment for some, due to its size.

Let me introduce you to the “leg of lamb steak.” Ask your butcher (nicely) to cut a leg end to end, on the band saw, into inch-thick slices (or steaks). This will deliver a cut that has the best of all things lamb, but one that can be on and off the old grill pan in no time. Aim for medium-rare, and then finish it in a simple pan sauce made from a little beef broth, red wine, roasted Kalamata olives, roasted garlic cloves, capers and caper berries. Shaved fennel gets tossed into the simmering broth at the last minute, adding a touch of anise flavor to the mix. Serve it with steamed new potatoes to soak up all of that yummy sauce.

The dish is bold and rustic, yet bright in flavor, because of the briny ingredients.  Don’t forget a healthy dose of freshly chopped herbs to lift the dish to an even brighter note.

Papaya Tartar

Papaya Tartar

Speaking of brightness, if you’ve never tried seasoning fresh fruit with chili powder and dried lime, which is a common practice in Mexico, then starting with a ripe, in-season Meridol papaya is a great way to get initiated. These jumbo red papayas are showing up more and more in supermarkets that cater to fans of ethnic fare. Slowly but surely, they’re replacing the smaller, more finicky “solo” or “sunshine” varieties that were once our only options.

Mexicans have a name for the combination of toasted and ground chile pepper and dried lime juice; it’s called “salsa en polvo.”  A little sprinkle is all it takes to make fruit simply sing. I used the seasoning Chile de Arbol for its sharp, almost citrusy heat and combined it with powdered Citric Acid and Sumac, another citrusy seasoning.  You can find both at Williams-Sonoma.

Having a little fun, red papaya always reminds me of raw beef or tuna, and so I simply diced the meat finely, a la “tartar,” and served it in a ring mold ‒ like you might beef tartar ‒ with a puree of mango “yolk.”  A little lime zest adds interest. It’s a simple, yet elegant, way to make this super fruit a star finish to a fabulous meal.

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Tip from Bill: Dinner plates are increasing in size. Before you make a purchase, know the depth of your cabinets. Likewise, if you’re remodeling your kitchen, share the diameter of your dinner plates with your designer.

Lancaster’s Newest Barber

When Bette Ruby and her friends passed by Champ’s Barber School during First Fridays in Lancaster, she would often say, “I would really like to go there one day!” At her friends’ urging, Bette did just that.

At the age of 67, Bette began collecting Social Security. She contemplated retirement (she had been working for several years at the JCPenney Hair Salon at Park City Center). Working on a part-time basis was also an option. But, she also yearned to satisfy a lifelong dream of becoming a barber. So, she cashed out two 401(k)s, which enabled her to pay the tuition for barber school.

Although Bette had been styling people’s hair since she was nine, her childhood dream was to become a nurse. Her mother even bought her a nurse’s uniform from the JCPenney Catalog one year for Halloween. She remembers wearing the uniform all day long if she could, or at least until her mother would make her take it off. She was determined to become a nurse.

It wasn’t until years later, as a senior in high school, that a guidance counselor changed the future course of her life, observing, “I see you doing everybody’s hair at school. You seem to really love this. You should become a cosmetologist.” Bette remembers reminding the counselor of her desire to become a nurse. The counselor pointed to similarities between the two professions. Both involved a love of people, a skill with scissors and required medical knowledge (after all, barbers were considered the first surgeons).

Bette devoted considerable thought to the proposal and decided to attend Empire Beauty School in Lancaster. Barbering was her first choice, but since she didn’t have a driver’s license at the time (the closest barber school was in Harrisburg), she had to attend a school close to home. Empire fit the bill.

That decision led to a 51-year career as a hairdresser that has taken her to a wide range of salons in the area and brought her much joy both professionally and personally. She’s seen styles come and go: from beehives, bouffants, Afros and the sleek Twiggy look of the ‘60s, to the Farrah Fawcett “feathers” of the ‘70s, the big hair of the ‘80s, the Rachel (Jennifer Aniston) that ruled the ‘90s and the bob that has set the tone for the first decade+ of the 21st century. Many of her clients have been along for the entire ride and now rely on Bette to help them chase away the gray or pump up the volume.

Known for having a big heart, it’s not unusual for clients to walk away with holiday treats and goodies that are disbursed on a year-round basis. And, if a client is lucky enough to be celebrating a 90th birthday, she’ll treat him or her to dinner!

Bette’s desire to become a barber never wavered. She wanted to learn how to cut and style all types of hair. Her school of choice was Champ’s, which draws a diverse clientele. More importantly, Champ’s would offer her the training she had been searching for all these years. She strongly believes that as a hairdresser, you must be willing to continually educate yourself in order to stay current.

“I feel I have met my goal by graduating from Champ’s. Anything I do from now on will be icing on the cake,” Bette confides. “I am blessed for having worked with Champ,” she says of the school’s founder, Champ Hall. “He is a great man – a generous man and truly devoted to mankind.” She is in the process of taking her state boards and should receive her barber’s license as a 70th birthday present. She hopes to work in a barber shop one or two days a week.

So, why would she feel the need to be both a barber and a hairdresser? Bette sums it up neatly, “Barbers do everything hairdressers do, but hairdressers don’t do everything that barbers do.” She is now trained to do it all.

Bette continues to work at William Parmer Hair Designers on Harrisburg Pike, where she has worked part time while finishing barber school. Being a cosmetologist and a barber gives Bette the right to tell her clients, “I’m two for the price of one.”  She says every day she looks forward to getting up and coming into work because she loves what she does.
But hairdressing is not Bette’s only talent. She is also on the cutting edge of throwing great parties. She is well known for her summer luaus and Halloween parties. The guest lists now total over 100 (and grow yearly).

A longtime resident of Lancaster, Bette is married to her husband Vincent. Her son Mike teaches art at Mountville Elementary School.

Thanks to her impressive organizational skills, she has been able to maintain a huge “memory box” of pictures that she has taken of special people and events in her life, meticulously kept since high school. Each picture is autographed with a sentiment written to Bette. Someday, she would like to “sit down” and put all these pictures into an album. But, that may be easier said than done for someone who’s been standing (behind a chair) for 51 years – and is still not ready to sit down!

William Parmer Hair Designers, 291-1896 Champ’s Barber School, 394-0422, champsbarberschool.com.