CELEBRATING LANCASTER COUNTY'S PEOPLE, SCENERY,

HERITAGE, STYLE & POINT OF VIEW SINCE 1987.

Mount Joy: Show Your Colors

Veterans Day (as well as other patriotic holidays) haven’t looked quite the same in Mount Joy since Harold Billow’s passing on May 17, 2022. Billow, who was born in 1922 and became a resident of Mount Joy six years later, commemorated such days by filling the front yard of his home with 87 American flags.

The gesture paid homage to the 87 men who lost their lives in the Malmedy Massacre. Billow was regarded as the last-known survivor of the massacre that took place on December 17, 1944. Following the previous day’s Battle of the Bulge, 120 American soldiers were captured by the Germans. Instead of sending them to a POW camp, the Germans rounded up the men and executed them using pistols and machine guns. Eighty immediately died. To make certain the deed was complete, the Germans moved among the bodies and took aim on anyone who appeared to have life left in their bodies.

The Mount Joy Area Historical Society adopted the late Harold Billow’s practice of honoring the 87 men who perished at the Malmedy Massacre on December 17, 1944 with American flags. Mr. Billow, who died in May 2022, was the last-known survivor of the massacre.

Harold Billow somehow survived. In an article that appeared in LNP, he shared that he lay face down in the snow for hours, daring not to breathe for fear evidence of his exhalations would be seen in the frigid air. Finally, as evening set in, another survivor beseeched the others to make a run for safety. Doing so, they made their way to a café at the Baugnez Crossroads (Belgium) but were warned German soldiers were on the premises. Billow sought safety in a hedgerow and figuring they would provide the best protection (at one point gunfire erupted), he made his way out of the area. He ultimately encountered some friendly faces when he crossed paths with the 285th Field Artillery Battalion.

Incredibly, December 17 came to represent happier times for Billow. After Malmedy, he was transferred to a post in England. That’s where he met and married Vera Waller. They were married on December 17, 1945, one year to the day on which he escaped death.

Harold Billow’s legacy has been honored in several ways. In April, the post office in Mount Joy was named in his honor. For Memorial Day, the Mount Joy Area Historical Society honored Billow by carrying on his tradition of displaying flags at his home. An area in front of the organization’s headquarters was planted with 87 flags, as well as signage that explained their significance.

The service of other veterans is also honored in Mount Joy through the Hometown Heroes Banner Program. This nationwide program began as a grassroots effort spearheaded by Pennsylvania resident, Ruth Stonesifer, who lost her son, Kristofor, in 2001. As a Gold Star Mother, she wanted to make people aware of the sacrifices that are made to ensure our freedoms.

Working with Rileighs, a Pennsylvania-based banner company, the Hometown Heroes banners were created. The first banners – 140 in all – were raised in Harrisburg in 2007. Today, towns across America use the banners to honor military members/veterans, first responders and medical personnel. In Lancaster County, the banners can be seen in Mount Joy, Marietta, Mountville, Quarryville and East Petersburg. Funding is typically provided by families, organizations and donations.

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Mount Joy: Living

Mount Joy living certainly offers a world of possibilities. Whether your taste is period or contemporary, you’ll find it in Mount Joy.

If period architecture is your preference, the downtown area is home to beautiful neighborhoods that provide everything from colonial charm and Victorian gingerbread to mid-century-modern styling.

Beyond the downtown areas, communities offer the amenities of modern-day living. One of those is the Gables at Elm Tree. Built by Cornwall-based Alden Homes, the intriguing contemporary designs employ traditional twists. Think Craftsman meets Modern Farmhouse with a touch of Coastal. One such home was on view for this year’s Parade of Homes. It was designed to take advantage of what were once wasted spaces. For example, the area under the staircase was transformed into a pet suite, complete with dimmable lights and a cushy doggie bed. The house also featured a flex-room that, in this case, was decorated to serve as a children’s play area.

Another Alden home at the Gables was part of a first-ever tour hosted by PPL (held June 24). Termed as a High-Performance/Zero Energy Ready Home, it was designed to incorporate a solar system that can offset electrical usage. In PPL’s estimation, “Builders are stepping into the future of energy efficiency by exceeding code minimums, adding value, improving comfort and lowering energy costs of the home.” Such tours are being held to acquaint prospective homebuyers with the elements to look for that contribute to high-performance homes.     

Aldenhomes.com
Pplelectric.com

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Mount Joy: Library

Visit the Milanof-Schock Library and it’s obvious that it’s a beloved and very utilized part of the community.

The programs presented by Miss Jan are always well-received and well-attended.

As the very popular event facilitator, “Miss Jan”, noted, library personnel were nearly overwhelmed by the kick-off to the Summer Reading Program that was held in early June. “We had 345 children here on Saturday,” she noted. “It was a huge success!” she said of the event that saw every child leave with a gift of a book.

The library’s roots date to 1962, when a Girl Scout troop began operating a “library” as a community project. The demand exceeded expectations, prompting the establishment of a bookmobile stop in Mount Joy. Two years later, a library was established in an empty storefront. By 1993, it became obvious that the library had outgrown the space. A capital campaign was launched to raise $1.1 million. Two major gifts totaling more than $800,000 were provided by Anne Milanof (a volunteer at the library) and Clarence Schock (the head of SICO and its philanthropic foundation).

The Milanof-Schock Library, which opened in 1999, was named the “Best Small Library” in 2006 by the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation and the Library Journal. The library’s offerings make it obvious why it has been able to develop such a community connection. Yes, books are the main draw, but the library offers so many ways for community members – especially children – to discover the world.

The newest endeavor is acquainting visitors with the environment and how each of us can protect it through the plants we grow and creating pollinator-friendly environs. It’s obvious the message is getting out – Miss Jan and her guests, Master Gardener Michael Cassidy and his wife, Jeanne, presented a pollinator program to a packed house on a recent Wednesday morning.

Making visitors aware of what they can do to help the environment is presented through books and visual projects that can be seen on the library’s grounds.

Family-friendly summer events are open to the public. Visit mslibrary.org to learn more.

Food Truck Thursdays

Food trucks will be onsite every Thursday through August 24 from 11 a.m.-1:30 p.m. and 5-7 p.m.

August 25: Love Your Library Benefit Bash

Event will feature live music, food trucks, games/activities and silent auction. 4-7 p.m.

1184 Anderson Ferry Rd., Mount Joy.
Mslibrary.org

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Mount Joy: Parks

For a small town, Mount Joy offers its residents plenty of spaces – ranging from small pocket parks such as Old Standby on West Main Street to the 32-acre Little Chiques on Park Avenue –  for communing with nature, recreation, celebrating and reflecting. The borough maintains nine parks, while the township is responsible for three.

One park that several people recommended we visit is Cove Outlook Park (436 Old Market St.), a 25-acre expanse that is owned by the Lancaster County Career & Technological Center but was leased to Mount Joy Borough in 2005 for a period of 25 years. The park caters to those seeking passive recreation such as walking/jogging, dog walking, cycling, birdwatching, etc.

Mount Joy is also home to the popular and well-maintained Dog Park Mount Joy (960 Strickler Rd.). Opened in 2016, this 3-acre park, located within Rapho Community Park, is divided into two sections. It’s operated and maintained with funding provided by membership fees, fundraising events, donations and the time and talents of volunteers. We visited late on a Wednesday afternoon, prime time for the after-work crowd. During our visit, we encountered new BFFs, Zoe and Bentley. Zoe’s owner is a transplant to Mount Joy via Pittsburgh and York County, while Bentley’s owner recently moved to a 55+ community in Mounty Joy.

Mountjoyborough.com
Mtjoytwp.org   

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Mount Joy: Stay

Nancy Skee always dreamed of owning a bed & breakfast. When she retired from teaching – 24 years in the Manheim Township School District – she took over Mount Joy’s Olde Square Inn.

Nancy Skee is the property’s third innkeeper, having assumed ownership in 2014.

Driving into Mount Joy from the east, the inn immediately catches your eye. The Colonial Revival architecture and the various porches represent another era in time. The landscaping and window awnings add to the old-fashioned aura of the property. A nearby fountain (which is owned and maintained by the borough), and trees filled with birds provide nature’s brand of music. It all makes for a lovely way to start the day over a delicious breakfast.

Originally owned by businessman Howard Longenecker, the house was state-of-the-art when it was built in 1917. Minimal “remodeling” has allowed it to retain many of its original architectural details. As we tour the house, Nancy points to the original doors, the butler’s call station in the kitchen and old-world elements such as columns and crown moldings. Each of the bedrooms is equipped with a call button to summon servants. “Fortunately, they no longer work!” she says.

“I’m the third innkeeper,” Nancy says of assuming ownership in 2014. “I’m living the dream. How lucky am I to be able to do what I do?”

Olde Square Inn makes its home in the former residence of businessman Howard Longenecker. It dates to 1917.

Nancy loves playing hostess to her guests who arrive from as close by as Mount Joy to as far away as the Netherlands. She credits her parents – first generation Americans who hailed from Hungary – for her genetic gift of hospitality. Over the course of 10 years, Nancy has developed a roster of regular visitors. For example, a couple from Maryland visit once a month. “We’ve become friends,” she says. They even gifted her with the Vietnam-era American flag that hangs from the front porch.

Nancy also began forging new avenues such as welcoming weddings, showers, birthday parties and other social events to her property. She launched Murder Mystery events and began offering cooking-related classes. “I even helped Girl Scout troops earn their cooking badges,” she notes.

Nancy uses her culinary skills to treat guests to 3-course breakfasts.

The pandemic, of course, created challenges. “I had to close,” Nancy says. Needing to remind people that the inn would be at their service when normalcy returned, Nancy began filming weekly cooking videos and posting them online. The success of the videos prompted her to showcase other businesses in the area.

As for the food element – breakfast! – it’s obvious that Nancy’s culinary talents ensure a full house during her busy season that extends from May through October. She treated me and Jordan Bush to a three-course breakfast consisting of bananas foster, poached eggs (accompanied by pickled onions, cherry tomatoes, avocado and Hollandaise sauce and served atop an English muffin), and for dessert (yes, dessert for breakfast is a signature of the inn), coffee ice cream topped with whipped cream and served atop a chocolate-covered pizzelle. Oh, and there was coffee or tea. And the setting – the side porch – was enchanting.

Nancy’s second-favorite role as innkeeper is serving as a concierge. “The best thing about Mount Joy is that it’s in the middle of everything,” she says. “Point in any direction and you can be somewhere fun and interesting in 20 minutes. There’s so much for visitors to do, it’s no wonder they love coming to Lancaster.” Even if they prefer to simply relax, Nancy is more than happy to have guests utilize the backyard pool, the rooftop deck or the cozy living room.

“I find bed & breakfast clients like the total experience,” she observes. “They like to be pampered to a degree and then go on their way. They also appreciate the personal service an owner can provide, like recommending restaurants and helping them establish an itinerary for the day.”

A rooftop deck is perfect for relaxing.

One event Nancy takes pride in “caters” to locals. Two years ago, she began inviting students waiting at the bus stop across from the house in for breakfast. “From the beginning, it was designed to have Police Chief Rob Goshen, as well as other officers, meet with students over breakfast,” Nancy says of the “Breakfast with a Cop” endeavor. “The objective was for members of the police force to get to know the kids, build relationships with them and let them know we were looking out for them.”

Held on the second Thursday of each month during the school year, two shifts of students stop in for a bite to eat at 7:30 a.m. and again at 8:30 a.m.

Nancy is also touched by the fact that when Mount Joy residents and business owners learned of the project, they began assisting her with monetary donations and products. “I have businesses calling me and asking, ‘What do you need?’” she marvels.

For more information, visit oldesquareinn.com.

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Mount Joy: Twirl

Paula’s School of Baton

“My cousin took baton lessons, so I wanted to take them,” says Paula McAdoo of idolizing her older cousin. Little did Paula know that she would go on to become a rarity in the realm of baton: Paula is one of the few instructors who operates a school specializing in baton and dance as a full-time business.

Drivers rarely hope that they will need to stop for a red traffic light. I qualify as the exception. When our offices were in Mount Joy, stopping for that red light at Main and South Market streets was something I didn’t mind doing. It meant I could sit and watch the students at Paula’s School of Baton practice in the school’s parking lot. They are amazing to watch! What I didn’t know at the time is that prowess with a baton has provided Paula’s students with the ability to lead the pre-game and half-time festivities at such football powerhouses as Penn State, West Virginia, Tennessee, Clemson and the list goes on.

Paula McAdoo (center) is pictured with four of her college-bound national champions. (Left to right) Maggie Rogers, a graduate of Hempfield High School, will be attending the University of Delaware. She is the daughter of Brendan and Stacey Rodgers. Amelia Clark, a graduate of Lancaster Country Day School, is headed for the University of Tennessee at Chattanooga. She is the daughter of Thomas Clark and Agnes Feyock. Sophia Lutz, a graduate of Lancaster Country Day School, will be a freshman at Clemson University. She is the daughter of Keith and Angela Lutz, who was Paula’s first college-level twirler. Makayla Ober, a graduate of Donegal High School, will be attending Penn State. She is the daughter of Matt and Jamie Ober.

As for Paula, who is the mother of two daughters and the very proud grandmother of a grandson, her career dates to her days as a student at Hempfield High School, when she twirled for the Black Knights during half-time shows of football games and marched in community parades. A few years after graduating, she began teaching at a performing arts school in Hanover, York County. Traveling back and forth became tiresome, so Paula began searching for studio space in Lancaster County. She rented a “shoebox-sized studio” in Mount Joy. Many of her students followed her there. “That studio went from 0 to 100 students in a year’s time,” she recalls.

The success of the studio prompted the need for a larger space and 38 years ago, Paula came upon a location along Main Street. Dating to the late 1800s, the imposing brick building had seen service as a silent movie theatre (the ticket window remains at the foot of a grand spiraling staircase), a ballroom dancing studio and a hat factory. “It was as if that building was calling to me,” she says. “There’s so much history within these walls.”

On the Cover: Jordan Bush photographed national baton champions (left to right), Maggie Rogers, Amelia Clark, Sophia Lutz and Makayla Ober at Paula’s School of Baton in Mount Joy, where they have been students since childhood. The building behind the girls (on the right) is Mount Joy’s post office, which was recently named in honor of the late Harold Billow, who was the last-known survivor of the Malmedy Massacre (World War II).

Initially, the school was relegated to the second floor, but growth and the eventual availability of the first floor enabled Paula’s to expand. “Our students represent nine school districts,” Paula says of the school’s reach throughout Lancaster County, as well as from York County and the Hershey area. The school also spans generations, as many siblings and even the mothers of present-day students are alumni of Paula’s. Growth also enabled the school to add dance to the repertoire. According to Paula, dance complements baton, as the best twirlers are blessed with flexibility, which dance can help to provide.

That generational connection aids in the school’s continued success. As with any sport or artistic endeavor, dedication on the parts of students and families is important. “Baton is a year-round endeavor,” Paula notes of classes that span beginner to elite levels. Summer sees students arrive for camp sessions and special workshops.   

Competing at the top level (state and national competitions and being a member of special teams) incurs added expenses for travel and custom costumes. However, in the case of Paula’s School of Baton, support seems to know no bounds. “Our families are fantastic,” Paula says. “I can’t tell you how gratifying it is to come in here and see dads painstakingly attaching sequins to costumes,” she says. Parental support is vital, and Paula explains that conferences with parents are always held prior to a student being promoted to the ranks of a competition team. “We want them to be fully aware of what that will entail” from a time and monetary standpoint.

For next year’s national competition, Paula anticipates that as many as 60 families will make the trip. Family and friends also turn out to be a part of the audience for the annual Spring Showcase, the most recent of which was held in late May at Donegal High School.

That sense of a generational connection – and commitment – kicks in early, as many of the older students mentor the younger ones. “Because they spend so much time together, our students develop long-lasting friendships,” Paula remarks. “Their teammates understand the sacrifices they make to participate, whereas their school friends often don’t.”

Still, it’s the students who ultimately make the decision to devote themselves to an art form they have grown to love. “We are well-ranked on the national scene,” Paula reports. “A lot of our students would be here every day if they could,” she adds. To ward off burnout, classes take a hiatus after nationals in mid-July and resume in September.

The students’ devotion became obvious during the pandemic. “We were closed from March to June of 2020,” Paula recalls. “It was tough on our students not to be able to come here. They needed that physical outlet. When we were able to reopen – we held classes outdoors – it was not easy, but we followed all the mandates and got through it. Everyone was so happy to be back!”

Dedication instills lessons of another kind: discipline, respect and time management among others. Such lessons translate into getting homework done before heading for classes in Mount Joy, as well as prioritizing activities. While the ability to twirl a baton doesn’t lead to college scholarships, academic achievement does. Paula takes pride in the fact that “so many of our students earn academic scholarships.” She notes that over the course of the past few years, many of her students have chosen to forge paths in the direction of medicine. “One of our students is at Yale,” she proudly reports.

Again, the ability to twirl a baton helps in untold ways and in future endeavors. Paula explains that national competitions are almost pageant like, as they involve twirling, a dance routine and a question/answer session. “When it come to college interviews, our girls do great,” she says. Post-college, such poise aids in acing job interviews.

The twirlers on the cover – all national champions – embody the philosophy and lessons learned at Paula’s School of Baton. These young women have all been students of baton from an early age (as young as 2). They all say they have learned invaluable lessons through baton. Maggie Rogers, who will be attending the University of Delaware, names “respect” as a value she came to embrace, explaining that respect extends to teachers, peers and competitors. Sophia Lutz, who is headed for Clemson University, says she will always cherish the friendships she shared with her teammates. “We pushed each other,” she says of dealing with the rigors of competing. Amelia Clark, who will be a student at the University of Tennessee at Chattanooga, echoes those sentiments, noting she appreciated the support of her teammates. Makayla Ober, who will be heading for Penn State, probably best epitomizes the time-management lessons she has learned. In addition to baton, Makayla played field hockey for Donegal High School and works at Mick’s All-American Pub. “You just learn to be responsible for getting everything done,” she says.

Nonetheless, Paula and the other four coaches on staff are aware that an all-work and no-play philosophy can lead to burnout. “We always work some fun activities into the schedule,” she explains. For example, students always take part in Mount Joy’s annual Memorial Day Parade. Marching in Manheim’s Farm Show and Columbia’s Mardi Gras parades are always on the fall calendar. Farther afield, the school’s students have performed in the Citrus Bowl and Miss America parades and took part in a half-time show during a Washington Redskins (now Commanders) game. ‘They love doing those sorts of things,” says Paula.

For more information, visit psbtwirl.com.

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Mount Joy: Agriculture

Grandview Vineyard represents one aspect of agriculture in the Mount Joy area. It’s part of the proliferation of vineyards and wineries across the state that has enabled Pennsylvania to be ranked only behind California, Washington and New York in wine production. The wineries have also provided the state with a new element of tourism.

Grandview Vineyard is celebrating its 10th anniversary in 2023. It remains a family-owned business and has expanded to offer visitors music, maker workshops, cigar dinners, wine-tastings and more.

Grandview also represents dedication on the part of family. In the early 2000s, Larry Kennel developed an interest in wine. The hobbyist especially enjoyed making dry fruit wines and made it his goal to plant his own vines. With the help of family, he launched that effort in 2009. Two years later, six family members became involved in founding The Vineyard at Grandview. Today, the vineyard is owned by two of those members – daughter Sarah, who is the director of sales and administration, and her husband, Scott Haines, who serves as director of operations, viticulture and enology. Their children are also involved in the business.

The couple credits their success in growing grapes – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and others – to the “shaley, well-draining” soil that defines the acreage. The wine selection ranges from dry reds and whites to semi-sweet and sweet wines.

Since opening in 2013, Grandview has grown to offer visitors such amenities as food, live music, wine-tasting events, cigar dinners, yoga in the vineyard, craft workshops and a Fête en Blanc celebration. The vineyard also hosts weddings and other private functions.

The facility offers an indoor tasting room, an expansive deck that overlooks the vineyard and countryside and an area for weddings.   

1489 Grandview Rd., Mount Joy
Grandviewwines.com

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Mount Joy: History

Drive out Donegal Springs Road and you will encounter a place steeped in history and surrounded by beauty.

Donegal Presbyterian Church officially dates to 1721 (it’s probably older). The original log structure was replaced by the building on the left in 1730. The matching building was constructed in 1955. Yet another addition was built into the hillside in 2007.

I’m speaking of Donegal Presbyterian Church, which observed its 300th anniversary in 2021 but postposed the celebration until 2022 due to Covid.

The church – originally built of logs – traces its beginning to 1721, as that’s the year in which Andrew Galbraith petitioned the New Castle Presbytery (Delaware) to provide the Donegal congregation with a pastor. (The church may date back to as early as 1714.) The petition was granted and the Presbytery of Donegal was organized in 1732. It’s believed the church’s location was chosen because of the natural springs that dot the area, as well as for the oak grove that defined it. The Celts, from whom the Scots-Irish were descended, believed that oak trees signified places of holiness.

The present-day church was built in 1730 and remodeled in 1851. In 1955, an addition was added to serve as an educational center. The complex was expanded in 2007; the design by Tippets/Weaver Architects created a sanctuary that blends with nature – thanks to walls of windows – and provides stunning views of the grounds, gardens and spring.

A plaza is dedicated to the story of the witness tree around which male parishioners pledged their allegiance to the cause of the American Revolution in 1777 and then set off to aid General George Washington in Chadds Ford. The tree succumbed to disease and was removed in 1991. A tree grown from an acorn taken from the original grows on the edge of the plaza.

The church is also well-known for its connection to the American Revolution. In 1777, during a Sunday service, those in attendance learned the British were approaching Pennsylvania, thanks to a rider who sought out Colonel Alexander Lowry, who was present at the church. The rider instructed Lowry to organize men, as their help was needed by General George Washington, who with his troops had retreated to Chadds Ford.

The church grounds are stunning and feature gardens, towering trees, a natural spring and a cemetery.

The congregants gathered around an oak tree on church grounds where the men pledged their allegiance to the cause. The men from Donegal would ultimately fight at the Battle of the Brandywine (September 11, 1777).

The tree, which became known as “the witness tree,” stood tall until disease claimed it in the early 1990s. It was removed on June 3, 1991. Fortunately, a church member, Mary Karnes, was able to grow a replacement tree from an acorn taken from the original. The tree grows on the edge of the plaza that recounts the events of that day in 1777. The preserved stump of the original tree has a place of honor in the middle of the plaza.

Donegalpc.org

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Spelt: The Local Grain Economy

An ancient cereal grain that originated in Europe, spelt is growing in popularity. Versatile in its delicate gluten profile, it’s an excellent substitute for all-purpose flour while offering better flavor and nutritional value fit for sweet or savory recipes. 

From Front Porch Baking Co. in Millersville, using spelt flour from Small Valley Milling (clockwise): Citrus olive oil cake is rich, dense and topped with a crunchy iced crust. Citrus sugar cookies are chewy with a slight suggestion of tanginess. Streusel coffee cake is full of contradictions. The sweet-and-salty confection is flaky on the outside, while the soft inside is loaded with cinnamon swirls.
This summer, you can find Front Porch products at the Lititz Farmers Market (Thursdays, 4-8 p.m.). Akron-based Whistlin’ Cup Coffee Roasters’ Nicaragua Finca BA is sold at Reiff’s Farm Market & Greenhouse in Ephrata. They also offer a drive-thru coffee trailer at 704 Main Street in Akron that operates Monday-Saturday.

Falling captive to the spelt coffee cake baked by Kristen Richards, the owner of Front Porch Baking Co. in Millersville, I was curious to know where she sources locally grown and milled spelt for baking purposes. So, heeding her advice, last summer I headed northwest from Lancaster and ended up at Small Valley Milling.

The Steigman Family

An hour-long drive took me just north of Harrisburg to Halifax in Dauphin County, where the rolling countryside opens to fields painted in golden yellow and lush green. The landscape reminded me a great deal of the area where I grew up; known as Greenbank, it’s just south of New Holland at the foot of the Welsh Mountains.

Cumulus clouds cast mid-day shadows on the farmland as Eric Steigman harvests spelt with a Deutz – Allis R60 Gleaner. Harvested spelt moves through the system with a massive auger into the hopper for temporary storage. It will later be transferred into a grain trailer to return to the mill.

It was the precipice of a busy July afternoon at Small Valley Milling when I met the father-and-son owners/operators, Joel and Eric Steigman. The surrounding fields were loaded with spelt grain that was ready to harvest. The weather was dry, bone dry, a necessity for harvesting the white seeds and golden straw that define spelt. Afternoons offer time for the sun to burn off the morning dew. 

A tractor-trailer pulled away from the mill, having delivered spelt for milling. Eric points out the three generations of farmers seated in the cab: a grandfather, son and grandson. Eric’s parents, Joel and Elaine Steigman, started farming on the initial 80 acres of the current property in 1974. Today, they operate the mill and farm, which is comprised of roughly 300 acres of owned and leased land that is dedicated to the production of 100% natural and organic spelt flour. Joel is a firm believer in organic farming, having transitioned to certified organic farming in 1997. Their grain products are PA Preferred, USDA and Pennsylvania Certified Organic, as well as Lancaster County Kosher Certified.

Eric and Joel Steigman at Small Valley Milling in Halifax, Dauphin County. The PA Preferred farm is USDA and Pennsylvania Certified Organic, as well as Lancaster County Kosher Certified.

“He likes to dabble in everything,” says Eric of his father. “Black barley, hull-less oats.” Spelt was one of those curiosities and Joel landed on a niche.

“We buy from growers in Lancaster County,” Eric explains, naming New Holland as a main source. “Spelt has been raised in Pennsylvania for a long time,” he notes, adding that at one time it was raised primarily as animal feed. Incredibly, for a time, Eric also lived in Greenbank, about two miles from where I grew up, along Sheep Hill Road in East Earl, having worked at what is now New Holland Agriculture.

From Ancient Grains to Modern Wheat

Spelt is an ancient grain, believed to have been cultivated since 5000 B.C. Those findings are supported by archaeological discoveries made in the geographical region near the Black Sea, known as the South Caucasus, where the Middle East meets Eastern Europe. During the Bronze and Iron ages, spelt became popular in Central Europe, particularly in Germanic regions. It was later grown in Britain, as it’s well-suited for colder climates from a growing and storage perspective.

Spelt growing in one of the Steigmans’ fields last July, moments before harvest.

“If you look at the chromosomes, that’s how they trace it back,” says Eric “Einkorn has the fewest number of chromosomes. It crossbred with wild grass and got emmer, which is another ancient grain. Emmer crossbred with another native wild grass and the outcome of that was spelt. After spelt, then we have modern wheat” 

Einkorn is the most basic ancient grain with 14 chromosomes; hybridization added 14 chromosomes in each generation. The second generation, emmer, is a less-primitive, heat-tolerant grain that was used to bake bread in Ancient Egypt, near the Pyramids of Giza. It has 28 chromosomes. When emmer later hybridized with a wild grass to become spelt, a form of wheat, 14 more chromosomes were added for 42 total. 

Joel Steigman displays a handful of spelt grain.

Eighty percent of spelt’s protein is gluten, though it is more delicate and water-soluble. It also contains more fiber than wheat, making it easier to digest. The edible components of whole grains are known as grain berries, which include bran, germ and endosperm; they contain fiber, vitamins, proteins, antioxidants and healthy fats.

“That’s how the genetics came about to get modern wheat,” Eric points out. “That’s the one that man likes to play around with to get a higher yield and more proteins. Somehow, we got to a point where people are getting allergies to modern wheat, and people are seeking out spelt, emmer and einkorn to get away from modern genetics, to get something they can digest better and have less gluten sensitivity to, so they feel better when they eat it.” Joel adds: “There are some people  that can eat spelt that can’t eat wheat.”

Spelt Versus Common Wheat

Common wheat is a closely related, modern derivative of spelt, with a more robust gluten structure. One of the key reasons why wheat is so popular is that the hull is removed at the time of harvest. The inclusive process removes extra steps in milling, saving time and money for better returns. On the other hand, spelt is a less-complex grain but requires the hull to be removed mechanically after storage and before milling.

Small Valley Milling’s Puffed Spelt Cereal has a slightly sweet and nutty flavor that pairs well with brown sugar or berries.

“Unlike wheat, emmer, einkorn and spelt have a hull that’s not removed in the field,” says Eric. “Wheat is a free-threshing grain; once it’s combined it’s ready to be cleaned and milled, whereas spelt, emmer and einkorn have to go through a de-hulling process. That adds time and cost; you have losses, more time in cleaning.” 

“When you harvest wheat in the field, when you bring it in and smell it, it has a good smell,” says Joel “But when it sits in these bins, it loses that fragrance. If we have spelt in the bin, it’s in the hull. When we de-hull it, it has that same freshness six months later. When we take it out of the shell, it gets ground into flour right away, so we maintain that freshness.” 

Eric Steigman digs up the soil with a knife to check for moisture.

For storage, spelt “has to be [dried], down to 12% moisture,” Joel continues. “We vacuum-pack our grains in plastic bags, and it’s overpacked with carbon dioxide. I can take you to a grain that’s been in the bag for three years and it smells as fresh as the day we packed it.” 

The Local Grain Economy

A consequence of wheat’s efficiency is the near extinction of ancient grains. Going by the wayside during the Industrial Revolution, spelt was virtually nonexistent in the United States by the 1970s. Today, like the return to heirloom vegetables, including tomatoes, there has been a resurgence in specialty and heritage grains within local grain economies, driven by bakers (spelt, emmer and einkorn) and distillers such as Stoll & Wolfe in Lititz (Rosen rye).

Science and relationships are important to agriculture, and with spelt being a unique grain, education is important to consumers. This starts with other farmers who plant and harvest spelt in the field and bring it to Small Valley Milling for cleaning and milling.

Small Valley Milling, owned and operated by the Steigman family in Halifax, Dauphin County. Working in specialty grains, spelt products are among their most notable.

Throughout the day, Eric served as a conduit of spelt information disseminated into the growing community. One farmer started his first spelt harvest and called Eric to ask how to configure the cutter head on the combine. Eric happily obliged with experienced specificity.

“They don’t know how to set their combines,” he explains. “We’re constantly an open book. We all talk. People share information if they’re having trouble.” After hanging up the phone, a text message arrived containing photographs of the first pass of cut spelt for evaluation. The combine setup was close for spelt but needed adjustments to cut the grain closer to the end of the stem.

“The more economical it looks to the person using it – the baker, the customers buying the baked goods – that cheapens up the loaf of bread and makes it more appealing,” says Eric. “You have to sell that story and the name for more money to be able to use that higher-dollar grain.”

“The more bushels per acre, the better off you are,” says Joel.

Small Valley Milling offers organic spelt products including whole flour, kernels, whole spelt pancake mix and puffed-spelt cereal. For details, visit smallvalleymilling.com.  

Award-Winning Barbeque & A Casual Atmosphere

Open since 2011, Harvey’s Main Street Bar-B-Q has become one of Mount Joy’s favorite dining destinations. Owner Harvey Schademan is not a newcomer to the barbeque scene – he’s been perfecting his barbeque recipes for nearly 40 years. Today, this Mount Joy success story is a family affair.  

Harvey has been making barbecue since 1985. Starting with a roadside stand in Mount Joy, he expanded into catering, engaged in barbecue competitions and opened a food stand at the Elizabethtown Fair (the food stand and the connection to the fair continue today). He briefly owned a restaurant in Marietta and then returned to catering and operating roadside chicken barbecues before opening Harvey’s Main Street Bar-B-Q, 

Harvey’s has grown in yet another way, as it’s become a family business, thanks to a second generation joining its ranks. It’s now operated by Harvey, his wife, Stephanie, their daughter, Mollie Schademan, and a nephew, Jeremy Schademan. Harvey oversees the various aspects of the business, while Stephanie tends to the books and landscaping, Mollie is the catering coordinator and Jeremy serves as the head chef.

The Space 

A fire in 2014 caused the restaurant to be closed for a time. The Schademans put the time to use by remodeling and expanding indoor dining spaces.

The restaurant makes its home in what long-time Mount Joy residents may remember as the office of physician, Dr. David Schlosser. (Harvey was one of Dr. Schlosser’s patients.)  The building dates to the mid-1800s but was renovated in the early 1960s. “Dr. Schlosser’s brother worked for a Philadelphia architectural firm, and the firm’s owner was friends with Frank Lloyd Wright, so the building has a lot of Wright-inspired elements such as the use of natural elements like stone and wood,” Harvey explains. The two fireplaces in the dining areas are original to the building, as is the mahogany paneling and the flagstone floor in the back dining room. 

The restaurant was enlarged following a 2014 fire. “Prior to that we had talked about expanding; we turned a tragedy into something good,” Mollie says. The restaurant now seats about 95 indoors. An outdoor seating area that features stone pathways and picnic tables among the lush landscaping was added last year. It seats about 50; outdoor table service was added in May.

The Menu 

“Harvey got me into barbecue,” says Jeremy. A graduate of the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute, he worked as a banquet chef at Hotel Hershey before coming to Harvey’s on Main.

Of course, the sauce (or rub) defines the style and taste of barbeque. Harvey’s on Main utilizes the signature barbeque sauce – “tangy with a vinegar-butter base and ketchup-mustard flavoring” – its namesake developed. 

Can’t decide? The Decision Maker provide a sampling of ribs, chicken, pulled pork, beef brisket and Cajun sausage.

Popular menu items include brisket (available in a salad, as a sandwich or as a dinner), St. Louis-style ribs and pulled pork (available as a sandwich or a dinner). For those who can’t decide between brisket, pulled pork, ribs or Harvey’s Cajun sausage, there’s the Decision Maker, which features a sampling of all four meats. 

Another favorite is the Sunday Special: Harvey’s original 1/2 chicken dinner for $12. Harvey says the barbecue sauce for the chicken is different than the sauce used for other items. “I grew up on the chicken dinner,” Mollie comments. “When my dad had the roadside stand, he would bring any leftover chicken home for us. I always hoped he had some chicken left!” Jeremy echoes those sentiments, saying chicken is the one thing he could eat every day.

Ribs are available in half- and full-rack servings.

The house-made sides such as beans, mac & cheese and collard greens are also top sellers. Desserts, which include brownies, are also made in-house. 

In addition to off-site catering, Harvey’s can help you take your backyard barbeque to the next level, as they offer a bulk-item take-out menu, as well as barbecue sauce that is sold by the jar, quart or gallon. 

Coming!

Although it’s currently BYOB, Harvey’s plans to offer craft beer in the near future thanks to a partnership with Moo-Duck Brewery in Elizabethtown. Moo-Duck will brew craft beer in a newly constructed space at Harvey’s. Pennsylvania wines and craft spirits will also be available. 

Another upgrade – a garden-inspired outdoor dining area – seats about 50.

Harvey’s Main Street Bar-B-Q is located at 304 East Main Street, Mount Joy. Hours are Thursday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m., and Sunday, 11:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Reservations accepted for parties of 8 or more. Take-out and catering are available. Call 717-653-4224 or visit harveysbbq.com or Facebook.