CELEBRATING LANCASTER COUNTY'S PEOPLE, SCENERY,

HERITAGE, STYLE & POINT OF VIEW SINCE 1987.

New on the Block: Max’s Eatery

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When I found out that Aussie and the Fox was closing, I was disappointed. Without Aussie and the Fox in Lancaster, I was unsure when I’d have the opportunity to find out what constituted Australian food. I’d also only heard good things about the restaurant; whenever I passed by, the place seemed packed, so its closing came as a surprise.

My disappointment, however, was mitigated when I learned there would be another restaurant opening in the same location. The new restaurant, called Max’s Eatery, was going to be an “everyday eatery,” according to its website, a space modeled after a classic diner with a modern twist. The website promised a variety of options on the soft-opening menu, everything from breakfast foods to blackened catfish.

Named after the owners’ son Max, the concept of the restaurant was as clever as it was simple ­– create a restaurant which both children, like Max, and their parents would enjoy. The retro-diner atmosphere fits this vision nicely, offering a modern nostalgic atmosphere for adults and a fun boldly colored space for the restaurant’s younger customers. In the rear of the restaurant, a colorful cereal bar stocked with fruit loops and frosted flakes compliments this colorful aesthetic while offering yet another kid-friendly item to the menu. Between the cereal bar, waffles, onion rings, tater tots and smash burgers, any kid would be thrilled to eat at Max’s.

Boozy milkshakes and creative mixed drinks are also available for the adult crowd. I’d never had an alcoholic milkshake and was skeptical about whether it would taste good, but the “Twist and Shout” I tried was stellar. They also have another alcoholic milkshake called the “Booze Berry” that I’m looking forward to trying next time I get a chance, preferably with another order of onion rings and a smash burger.

I also had a regular black and white milkshake (half chocolate, half vanilla ice cream) and tried a “Summer Zucchini and Parm Omelette,” two eggs with shaved parmesan, local zucchini, and a choice of tots, crinkle cut fries, or onion rings. It was all delicious, and my only regret was not ordering more onion rings as a side in addition to the order I got from the “Sharables” section of the menu.

 

Go West, Young Foodies!

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Route 441 has developed into a foodie trail of sorts. Along the route you’ll encounter Marietta’s ever-growing selection of restaurants, a farm that raises 100% grassfed Cattle, and a winery that is now in the hands of a third-generation vintner.

The Susquehanna River has proven to be both a blessing and a detriment to the town of Marietta. In the 1800s, the river helped to provide the town with a robust economy that attracted both a workforce and travelers who arrived by rail. Today, the river is once again having an economic effect on Marietta (as well as Columbia and Bainbridge), only this century’s visitors are arriving to enjoy it from a recreational perspective thanks to the Northwest Lancaster County River Trail. But, as we were reminded by the deluge that struck Central Pennsylvania in late July, the river can create havoc. That is clearly evident on the high-water plaques that can be found on the exterior of Shank’s Tavern on South Waterford Street.
Despite the occasional challenges, it seems that Marietta is a town that is once again reinventing itself and moving forward. Credit is given to the aforementioned river trail, which skirts the river from Columbia to Falmouth. Marietta is fortunate to have two access points in town and four others to the north and south.

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Those who use the trail have discovered the charming town and its array of eateries. “It’s had a huge impact,” says Freddy States, who is a member of the borough council and owns McCleary’s Public House and the Railroad House Inn. “People come from all over to use the trail. It’s unbelievable! I’m always surprised to learn where they’re from.” Joey Bowden, who co-owns and manages the Railroad House, agrees, pointing out that when the trail initially opened, Sunday’s brunch business tripled.

Things were not always so upbeat. The building in which the renowned Josephine’s made its home on West Market Street stood vacant for several years until Nick Liazis purchased it in 2014. Today, it’s a bustling restaurant and bar that has a recognizable name heading up the kitchen – Dave Kegel of the family that once operated Kegel’s Seafood Restaurant in Lancaster. And, the Railroad House, which was impacted by flood waters in 2011, sat vacant for three years before it was restored and renovated.

Freddy is of the opinion that the trail and the foodie movement beautifully complement each other. “People have become more health conscious,” he notes. “They can come here and walk or bike the trail and then enjoy one of our restaurants.” He observes that the focus on healthy eating has prompted Marietta’s restaurants to reevaluate their menus and “step up their games” by emphasizing seasonal, sustainable ingredients and making options such as vegetarian and gluten-free available. Many have added outdoor dining options to their properties, allowing visitors to breathe in that fresh, riverside air as they relax.

Freddy also has high hopes that Marietta’s once-thriving arts community will stage a comeback. “Food is leading the way – cooking is an art form. I’d also love to see antiques shops and art galleries come into town,” he says, noting that there is an arts precedence in Marietta, as the Pennsylvania College of Art & Design traces its beginnings to the river town. Susquehanna Stage Company, a community theatre that makes its home in Marietta’s former movie theatre – which it is aiming to renovate – is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year.

Of course, architectural restoration is an art in itself where Marietta is concerned. Marietta’s architectural gems are shared with the public each December, when Marietta Restoration Associates hosts the Candlelight Tour of Homes, which is regarded as one of the state’s oldest home tours.

An increase in visitors has also attracted a handful of other businesses to invest in Marietta. For example, Stephen Ulrich has opened First National Escape (100 W. Market St.), which challenges visitors to break into a bank vault and grab as much cash as they can by using objects and technology from the Victorian era. Scores are determined by the amount of cash that is “stolen.” He also utilized the rear of the former bank building to create Mulberry Thrill, which serves cold brews (coffee in this case) and ice cream treats. Purchases are served out of an old tellers’ window of the bank.

Tammy Herr Weidman parlayed her love of dogs into a pet boutique called For the Love of Dog. Located at 17 W. Market Street, the shop offers everything from food to accessories.

And, Scott and Diane Barrows found a perfect location for their Lancaster Recumbent bike shop at 103 W. Market Street. Scott became a fan of this mode of transportation during a trip to Colorado. Unable to test drive such bikes locally, he and Diane decided to open a shop devoted solely to recumbents. They outgrew their original Rohrerstown location and set their sights on Marietta, where their inventory includes 75 models of recumbent bikes.

Freddy says the business opportunities are endless. He hopes to see the farmers’ market reopen and is aware queries have been made about opening a distillery in Marietta. “It would be a perfect location,” he says. Outfitter shops would also be a seamless fit. He has plans of his own for opening a bakery along Front Street. “We really want to revive our commercial district,” he says. “Never count anything out.”

Putting Up the Harvest

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At the end of every harvest season, without fail, I am filled with sorrow. I notice the selections at my favorite roadside stands are reduced from a cornucopia of produce to pumpkins and eggs. So, this year I decided to take matters into my own hands and learn the process of canning food.

From Tradition…

Many of us have memories of our grandmothers canning the seasonal bounty, to be enjoyed during the dreary months when colorful and tasty vegetables were once nonexistent.
Canning, however, is a tradition that seems to have skipped a generation or two – maybe because our working mothers didn’t have the time, or perhaps because produce suddenly knew no seasons.

Look through any magazine or peruse the Internet, and you’ll discover that canning (or “putting up” as they used to say) is hot again, especially with millennials and younger generations. I was game to learn, so I recruited the assistance of my grandmother to get me started. Initially, she was reluctant to join in, admitting that her methods were both antiquated and rusty. Fortunately, I was able to coerce her into canning bread-and-butter pickles with me. To be fair, if you know anything about my grandmother, she wasn’t going to say no.

As I dove into researching the process, I discovered canning methods lack cohesion, with folklore and unfounded methods spanning decades. It wasn’t definitively clear why anything was done in a particular way. Generally speaking, recipes always vary and serve first and foremost as inspiration in cooking, but in preserving food, I soon learned inspiration is a major health concern. If you’ve read Foodographer before, you know I’m a proponent of the old ways merged with the new. In this particular instance, that philosophy couldn’t be more important.

…To Penn State Science

Penn State Extension offers courses on food preservation at the Farm and Home Center in Lancaster. They teach researched methods of canning based on irrefutable science. I attended two of their canning workshops where I met Martha Zepp, a food preservation consultant whose recipes are completely rooted in science. The collective wisdom of the Penn State Extension instructors quickly leveled the playing field. They have witnessed canning processes develop over the years, and according to them, recipes prior to 1994 should be avoided, given a key turning point in recent history.

Over time, recipes have changed as our understanding of science and food processing developed. In the late 1980s, Dr. Gerald Kuhn and Dr. Elizabeth Andress, then a graduate student of Penn State University, conducted an exhaustive study on safe canning procedures. They developed research-based recipes using a thermocouple in the jar to verify safe temperatures for an array of foods and various jar sizes. Coupled with an understanding of what threats may be present within the jar, they were able to establish accurate food processing times. Andress later used those recipes to establish the cookbook on safe canning, So Easy To Preserve.

According to Martha, a lifelong instructor of canning processes, “I am not teaching what I learned from my mother because of the updated research that took place in the late 1980s. The methods that I was even teaching when I started teaching in high school are no longer considered safe. It was the best research at that time, but now we know so much more about what happens inside a jar that our recommendations have changed,” she says. “Some people will talk about an old method, and yeah, I‘ve heard of that, but I also know why we no longer do it based on scientific research. I’m glad they’ve never been sick, but in the case of botulism, that can be fatal.”

How Safe Canning Recipes Work

Canning is fairly straight forward once you know the basics. Clean, hot jars are packed with cleaned food, sometimes raw, sometimes cooked. Recipes provide a specific processing duration and temperature to heat all food inside the jar to a degree where anything harmful will be controlled. The duration and temperature of each recipe depends on the volume of jars used, the acidity of the food to be canned, and your geographic altitude above sea level (most of Lancaster County is below 1,000 feet). Proper temperature and food acidity are critical to keep mold, bacteria, yeast, and enzymes that cause ripening in check, which can cause food spoilage, illness and even death.

In 2015, as reported by the CDC, a church potluck meal turned fatal, killing one and hospitalizing more than two dozen, with many being treated for more than a week. The culprit: potato salad made with canned potatoes processed with a water bath canner (instead of a pressurized canner), which is incapable of reaching 240 degrees to destroy botulism spores in the starchy, low-acid food. That’s where researched recipes using science comes in to establish a safe canning process.

Mason Jars & Lids

Canning recipes will call for a designated “head space” of air to ensure a solid seal as the jars cool. Removing pockets of air bubbles in the jar helps to ensure a proper seal. Always keep jars totally upright throughout the process, and lids should only be finger tip tight to allow air to escape while boiling, helping to ensure a good seal. An excess of head space may cause darker colors in the food due to oxidation.

Clean, two-piece lids should be used for home canning. Where the rings are reusable, the flat lids are single use only, easily replaced by the dozen for a couple of dollars. For as much prep time that goes into canning, it’s well worth the few dollars to buy proper supplies. Heating lids in hot water with modern lids is optional, softening the rubber for a better seal. Tempered and reusable glass “Mason” type-jars are preferred, with Ball® being the last U.S. manufacturer. Old mayonnaise jars and single use store-bought jars are less likely to seal properly.

Water Bath Canning for High-Acid Foods

This is the simplest method of canning, and you might not need much to get started at home. I bought a 21.5-quart Granite Ware canner for $25 at a hardware store that included a canning rack to elevate jars above the direct heat of a cooktop. A stockpot will work fine if you can find a canning rack that will fit. The canner needs to be large enough for jars to be covered with a couple inches of water for even heating. Locally, Good’s Store is an excellent source for canning supplies, including canners, jars and utensils.

Water bath canning is only intended for preparing high-acid foods that are safe to process in boiling water at 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Many water bath canning recipes call for adding 5% acid vinegar to the food, creating an environment where botulism can’t grow. When selecting ingredients, white vinegar has more bite than cider vinegar but is ideal for maintaining color. Otherwise, the two are interchangeable, maintaining a critical 5% acidity. Wine-based vinegars should be avoided, as they may contain protein, which changes the pH level.

Pressure Canning for Low-Acid Foods

Relative to water bath canning, pressure canners are precision machines of considerable weight and investment. The more advanced of the two processes, pressure canning allows water to steam at temperatures above boiling at 240 degrees Fahrenheit or beyond depending on altitude or relative pressure. Higher temperatures are required in processing low-acid foods for the time specified in a scientifically tested recipe to destroy botulism spores. Anything less in either temperature or quantity is totally insufficient to eliminate the risk of botulism. Pressure canners can be used for water bath canning, serving as double duty.

Buying Locally Canned Foods

When buying jars of locally canned food, look for identifiers relating to the PA Department of Agriculture or the FDA. Commercial canners will often use a single-use, one-piece lid which is often white or gold. When buying, you can always ask how canned foods are processed, if processing happens in a regulated kitchen, if pets or even children are present, and so on. Canned items should be stored in a cool, dark environment, so carefully examine foods that are in extreme heat for extended periods of time.

Hot and Cold or Raw Packing

In either method, you will first begin with a warm jar filled with warm liquid so as not to shatter the jar when inserting it into hot water. Green beans, for example, can be washed, trimmed, snapped (or cut) then added to a warm jar as they are raw, or partially cooked. From there, the canning process is the same, though the results will slightly vary.

Hot packed foods tend to be used with a water bath canner, and air is removed from the food itself, condensing in size and filling jars more densely. Optionally, you can add flavor with pure canning salt or omit it for a lower-sodium side.

Canned vegetables are ready to serve without delay as a side or into a casserole, and you know precisely what ingredients are in the jar.

Closing Thoughts

Years ago, when I moved from Lancaster County to Louisiana for a short time, I quickly drafted a list of all the people, places and events I missed from home, everything I longed to revisit and with whom I would share those moments. Cooking with my grandmother was on that list, and canning has long been a skill I wanted to acquire.

Years later, I finally achieved that goal. She and I both had a lot of fun, and it was deeply rewarding making bread-and-butter pickles with her. She was delighted to taste the final results. Her willingness and those teaching the class at Penn State Extension convinced me that independence is often the result – intentionality and paradoxically – of togetherness.

Resources

Penn State Extension offers online resources and invaluable workshops in Lancaster and throughout Pennsylvania on a regular basis. You can check out their calendar of events at extension.psu.edu.

Exploring Lancaster County

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When I found out I’d be attending college in Lancaster, I was excited. I’d be coming from Massachusetts to Pennsylvania, a state I knew a fair amount about but had never had the chance to visit. Thoughts of Pennsylvania conjured images of the Liberty Bell, the Declaration of Independence, and figures like Benjamin Franklin, one of the namesakes of the college which I was soon to attend. Friends and family reminded me that what I was thinking of was more Philadelphia-centric, not the smaller town-like city I was soon to find myself in.

I moved into my dorm room and began to venture out into Lancaster City. I soon became acquainted with the usual haunts of local college students– Lyndon City Line Diner on the weekends, Oka Asian Fusion takeout while studying, and First Fridays at the beginning of each month. As another two years passed, I continued to try more and more restaurants and activities. Without a driver’s license and car, however, I was limited to the things I could reach by walking and had to rely on friends driving to the more out-of-the-way spots. Because of this limitation, I was missing out on fully experiencing the wealth of things Lancaster County has to offer beyond the confines of Lancaster City.

It was with excitement that I set out to explore the rest of the county with Briana Hess, the assistant editor of Lancaster County magazine and my chauffeur and tour guide for the day. We began by heading to Elizabethtown (which I now know can also be affectionately referred to as E-Town). Our first stop would be Masonic Village, a destination I regarded with ambivalence upon learning that it was, in fact, a retirement community. I was assured, however, that it was a must-see destination and resembled a castle.

Upon arriving, it quickly became apparent that Masonic Village was no ordinary retirement community. Spanning 1,400 acres with tall pines and a building which truly did look castle-like, the main building, an old-world style stone structure, overlooked a perfectly manicured garden and fountain. I was soon to learn that this estate began as the Masonic Homes of the Grand Lodge of Pennsylvania, a haven for aging freemasons and their spouses dating as far back as 1910, a history which accounted for the grandness of the property.

We next made our way through downtown Elizabethtown and past Elizabethtown College. Passing through the idyllic town, I was reminded of the New England towns I was familiar with growing up. The intimate feel of the area continued as we passed Elizabethtown College, surprising, considering how much newer the college appeared with its modern buildings. Nonetheless, the college fit in seamlessly, perhaps because of the abundance of greenery and gardens.

It was time to leave Elizabethtown, and we began our drive to Narvon, passing the fabled Blue Ball sign and well-reputed Shady Maple Smorgasbord along the way. This was the stop I was most excited for, having been told to expect a covered bridge. We arrived at Historic Poole Forge, and sure enough, there was the red covered bridge which I had so coveted. The fascination had begun a few months prior when I’d impulsively bought a painting of one at The Pottery Works and realized that it would be ridiculous to have lived in Lancaster for the better part of three years and not have seen one in person.

Before ending our day, we stopped by the Ephrata Cloister, a unique monastic settlement founded in 1732 by a man named Conrad Beissel, who believed life should be spent preparing for the Second Coming. I learned that a number of celibate men and women moved to the property to live a life of observance, moving about the grounds in white robes, eating little, sleeping less and praying often. I was additionally surprised to learn that William Penn had once counted himself a member of the Ephrata Cloister.

Having explored a number of new spots in Lancaster County, we began the drive back to Lancaster City, passing sweeping farms and bicycle-riding Amish. I watched through the window as we passed farm stands and fields full of cows and horses alongside rows of corn and tobacco plants (which I now knew to identify by their large leaves and yellow-green hue). This was the Lancaster of postcards, and I’m happy to be able to say that I’ve now thoroughly experienced it.

Milestone Year for the Ephrata Fair

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Fair season is finally here, and it’s one of my favorite times of the year! The sights, the sounds, the rides, the aromas and the flavors never fail to stir up memories. Just thinking about it gets me excited. This year one local fair will be celebrating a milestone. The Ephrata Fair, Pennsylvania’s largest street fair, is celebrating its 100th year!

It all began in 1919 when a few local businessmen came up with the idea of organizing and sponsoring a one-day event to honor veterans who had recently returned from World War I. The event was a success and even generated the funds to purchase the land that is now home to the town’s community park.

A year later, a farm harvest celebration was added, and by 1922, the now-annual event had become known as the Ephrata Farmers Day Fair. By the end of the 1920s, the fair was extended to a three-day event.

The fairs in the 1930s were similar to what we experience today, with plenty of games, competitions and a wide variety of foods. Unlike most of today’s modular stands, which travel from town to town, Ephrata’s stands were built to suit right on the spot. The 1930s also ushered in the start of the annual parade, which drew crowds from the surrounding areas, thanks in part to the participation of more and more floats over the years. Surviving both The Great Depression and World War II, the fair continued to grow in popularity year after year.

By the 1960s, the fair had become so large that some of the animal and agriculture exhibits had to be relocated from the midway. As a result, Tent City was created in Grater Memorial Park; it continues to host an array of agricultural and family-friendly activities.
In celebration of the 100th Annual Ephrata Fair, the Ephrata Farmers Day Association has created a variety of special activities throughout the week. The festivities will begin Sunday, September 23, with a “Welcome Home Ceremony” to honor local heroes past and present. It will be held at 2 p.m. at Winters Leadership Memorial in Veterans’ Plaza and will feature a number of special guests and speakers. Tuesday’s Opening Night Community Celebration at Tent City will kick off at 6:30 p.m. with food (including a pork chop dinner), games, music and Fun on the Farm activities. The 85th annual Ephrata Parade steps off at 7 p.m. on Wednesday.

Special guests will include the Philadelphia Eagles Pep Band. This year’s fair will also feature a Celebrate 100 Years Cake Contest, which requires participants to decorate their entries in honor of the milestone year.

Lots of memorabilia will be offered for sale, as well. Looking back, it’s difficult to even imagine all the cherished memories that were inspired by this annual community event. Having fond memories of the Ephrata Fair from my childhood, it’s been a joy to share the experience with my own children. I hope to see you there!

For a complete schedule and details for all of the fair’s events, visit ephratafair.org.

Barberet Bistro & Bakery | French Flair

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Barberet Bistro & Bakery, which brings a taste of France to Lancaster, has been part of the eclectic downtown restaurant scene for more than three years. Earlier this year it was recognized as one of the Top 10 restaurants in Pennsylvania by the restaurant review organization National Elite.

Barberet Bistro & Bakery, which brings a taste of France to Lancaster, has been part of the eclectic downtown restaurant scene for more than three years. Earlier this year it was recognized as one of the Top 10 restaurants in Pennsylvania by the restaurant review organization National Elite.

A large window at 26 East King Street offers passersby a tantalizing glimpse of the pastries that are created on the premises by Pastry Chef Cedric Barberet, who owns the bistro and bakery with his wife, Estelle. The Barberets were both born in France and worked in patisseries (pastry shops) operated by their families. Estelle is professionally trained in retail management of pastry shops, while Cedric is a trained pastry chef. In fact, Estelle did an apprenticeship at Patisserie Barberet (Cedric’s family business).

Cedric’s extensive resumé includes executive pastry chef at Le Bec-Fin in Philadelphia and at President Trump’s Mar-a-Lago Club in Florida. He made Donald and Melania Trumps’ seven-tier wedding cake. He’s also received several awards. In 2011, he became a member of the Academie Culinaire de France, and in 2016 he was named one of the Top 10 pastry chefs in the country by Dessert Professional Magazine. Last year he was named Chevalier de l’Ordre du Merite Agricole (Knight of the Order of Agricultural Merit) by the French Minister of Agriculture.

Lancaster became home to the Barberets when they couldn’t find the right location in Philadelphia for the pastry shop and bistro they dreamed of opening. After meeting Ben Frank of Amalfi Properties, the owner of the King Street building, they turned their sights to Lancaster.

Access to the bistro is through the bakery. The bistro seats 50, with room for another 18 guests at the bar. Cedric describes the bistro as having a chic ambience but being very casual as well. “Some people think a French restaurant is fine dining, but we’re more of an everyday place,” Estelle says.

The bistro serves lunch and dinner as well as a brunch on Saturday. Nearly everything, except bread, which is imported from France, is made in-house. “We work as much as possible with local vendors, and here there’s great access to local ingredients,” Cedric says.

The menu changes seasonally. As part of the lunch menu, there are express lunch options that include a cup of soup du jour, a mixed green side salad or fries (pommes frites), a choice of four entrées and dessert (from the dessert menu or a selection from the bakery).

The dinner menu includes a two-course offering for $25 or three-courses for $35 (with a glass of wine). Thursday is oyster night – Chef Michael Savitsky selects different varieties of oysters to serve on the half-shell with an accompanying sauce from week to week. During Happy Hour at the bar (5 to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Friday), wine, cocktails and beer are served with complimentary pommes frites.

“The bistro is a team effort; everyone works to ensure that guests have a great experience. One of us is always on-hand, so if any problems arise, we want to make it right,” Estelle says.

Popular menu items include foie gras, escargot, salmon and veal schnitzel. “We wanted to pay tribute to the German heritage of the area with the veal schnitzel,” Cedric says.

Bouillabaisse, a seafood stew, which is available only on weekends, has become a favorite with guests. “It’s a classic dish from the south of France. We prepare and serve it the traditional French way. It takes eight hours to make the broth,” he explains.

As for the bakery, which is filled with traditional and French-inspired pastries, he says anything made with chocolate is a great seller; Chef Barberet uses only Cacao Barry Chocolate for his creations. Other tantalizing bakery items include fruit tarts, a French strawberry shortcake and macarons, which are available in a variety of flavors. “I make about 8,000 bite-size macarons each month,” Cedric says with a smile, noting that all the macarons are gluten-free, as are 45% of the cakes. Jams, which are also used in the bistro as a garnish, are made in-house.

 

Barberet Bistro & Bakery is located at 26 E. King St., Lancaster. Lunch is served Tuesday through Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday brunch is served 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Dinner is served Tuesday through Thursday, 5-9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday 5-10 p.m. Bakery hours are Tuesday through Thursday, 7 a.m.-9 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 7 a.m.-10 p.m., and Sunday 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Reservations are suggested; call 717-690-2354 or visit barberetlancaster.com and Facebook.

Celebrating Lancaster’s Printing Heritage

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If the pen is mightier than the sword, then the printing press is a cannon.

Printing is something we now take for granted in our modern age of on-demand technology and information. The science and art behind putting text onto the page was a milestone accomplishment for humankind, and Lancaster played a role in its development.
I’ve always been attracted to typeface. When I was younger, while my peers were falling in love with Comic Sans, I was delving into Helvetica, Garamond and Bodoni, not to mention learning the difference between serif and sans-serif. I was even known to peruse issues of Print magazine (which ended its run in 2017). And while I don’t expect everyone to geek out on ink meeting paper, the significance of printing to our history cannot be denied. It’s even downright fun.

In 1751, Lancaster was a small city – with a population of only 2,000 – when its first printing press began rolling. Successful Philadelphia printer and founding father Ben Franklin partnered with James Chattin to establish the New Printing Office, as Franklin often called his offshoot printing endeavors. The market proved to be tough, and Chattin returned to Philadelphia after only a short time in Lancaster. The New Printing Office was then put in the charge of Samuel Holland and Heinrich Müller, but it was not until William Dunlap, “a sober young Man” as described by Franklin, took over operations in 1754 that the press began a fruitful run.

Most of the success can be attributed to Franklin’s desire to establish a printing arm fluent in both German and English. The New Printing Office published religious tomes, school primers and a failed attempt at a daily newspaper.

EPHRATA CLOISTER

The first-known newspaper press came to Lancaster County at the Ephrata Cloister in 1743 and gave us The Chronicon Ephratense, a detail of the events of the religious group who founded the modern borough of Ephrata. While it can be argued this was the county’s first newspaper, many historians point to the New Printing Office’s The Lancaster Gazette (1752) for such an honor.

Before the Cloister established its own press, it relied on the Philadelphia offices of Franklin to publish the sermons, teachings and beliefs of founder Conrad Beissel. The Cloister excelled in the art of printing, developed a unique set of typography known as Fraktur, and printed and bound an edition of the 1,500-page Martyrs Mirror, the largest book printed in Colonial American times. (Martyrs Mirror, as it is commonly known to Anabaptists and historians, may hold the record for longest subtitle of any book ever written: Martyrs Mirror of the Defenseless Christians who baptized only upon confession of faith, and who suffered and died for the testimony of Jesus, their Saviour, from the time of Christ to the year A.D. 1660.)

The Printing Office of the Brotherhood, which was originally located on Mount Zion, eventually moved closer to Bethania (Brothers’ House). It is located in a building that dates to 1735, making it one of the oldest structures on the property. It is open to Ephrata Cloister visitors.

For details, visit ephratacloister.org.

CLUB

“Printing is a process for reproducing text and images using a master form or template.” That’s the dictionary definition. Yes, printing is a process, but it is more craft and art than the standard definition would reveal. Preservation of this tradition has been taken up by members of Lancaster’s .918 Club. The club’s goal is to educate the public about the history of printing through regularly scheduled demonstrations and provide a “working letterpress job shop” to fulfill the specialty printing needs for the community.

The club is housed in the Heritage Press Museum (inside BUiLDiNG CHARACTER) at 346 North Queen Street and was once part of the now defunct Heritage Center. Monthly events include a workshop for Boy Scouts to earn their printing merit badges; a unique Printers at Work (Thursday through Sunday) demonstration of letterpress printing in America during the early 20th Century; and every fourth Wednesday the club’s regular meeting, which is open to the public and likeminded individuals “determined to keep the craft of hand set letterpress printing alive and well in Lancaster County.”

For more information, visit .918club.org.

CELEBRATION

Every September, Lancaster’s printing history is celebrated with the Lancaster Printers Fair. This year’s date is September 15, 11 a.m.-4 p.m., with a special Printing on Penn Square event taking place in the Square on September 14, 6-8:30 p.m.

Saturday will see vendors and suppliers display their selection of printing equipment, memorabilia and goods in a street fair environment on the 300 block of North Queen Street. Along with everything printing, there is entertainment, a selection of unique shops to explore and an array of food trucks for hungry visitors.

This year, organizers hope to bring more people to the event with the inclusion of a Printer’s Beer Garden hosted by Wacker Brewing Company of Lancaster. Wacker will be creating a special release, Poor Richards Ale, based on Benjamin Franklin’s own beer recipe. The brew’s tasting notes include toffee and biscuit, accompanied by earthy flavors courtesy of East Kent Golding and Bramling Cross hops.

For the youngsters attending, there is a chance to set a world record. Organizers hope to compile the largest group of young people “potato printing” in one day. For organizers, using a potato to print an image displays basic printing skills and highlights the areas rich agricultural ties.

For details, visit .918club.org.

Printing’s importance to Lancaster can best be summed up by self-made, local historian on printing and bibliophile Lee J. Stoltzfus, author of The Black Art, A History of Printing in Lancaster County, PA.

“For me, the history of Lancaster County printing is not just a story about ink on paper. It is a story about a community that has always valued information, education and new ideas. Even the Amish have long learned the value of the printed page and have used new information to become experts on farm-to-table agriculture, solar power and alternative energy,” wrote Stoltzfus when I contacted him about this column’s subject. “The history of Lancaster County printing is a reminder that our community has never been a cultural backwater. While many visitors here have often only focused on our buggies and cornfields, those of us who live here have always focused on how to acquire the tools and information necessary for creating well-being. And, the printed page has always been one of the most important of those tools. The printed page has provided Lancaster County with valuable solutions for helping to build this state and this country.”

Reveling in Going Retro

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Event co-chairs David Groff and Justina Juvonen Dodge.

Lucy and Desi, Dean, Marilyn and other icons from the Fabulous Fifties were on hand as the Fulton Follies transported its guests in the way-back machine to Prom Night 1959.

Each year, the Fulton Theatre’s most loyal donors look forward to “Fulton Follies,” a fundraising event that spotlights the fun of supporting this performing arts organization that is filled with talented extroverts who love showbiz. Through its nine years as a significant fundraiser, Fulton Follies has morphed from dinner in donors’ homes followed by a show at the Fulton Theatre to a highly themed event hosted at the theatre’s friendly neighbor, Millersville University’s Ware Center.

With Nicole Hackman – newly onboard as donor relations director – at the event’s helm, and two fledgling Fulton board members – Justina Juvonen Dodge and David Groff – as the event’s energized co-chairs, their ideas were fresh, fun and boundless. “One of the great joys of programming a fundraiser for a theatre is being as creative and theatrical as possible, which means that the entire event was a ‘show,’” Nicole explains. A spirited committee of 23 helped execute the party’s cast of characters that included 20 actors, five backstage staff members, 15 children ages 7 and up, six musicians and 20 volunteers.

Judy and Paul Ware

Arriving guests, who were encouraged to dress the part of a 50s prom-goer, were met on Prince Street by actors portraying James Dean and Gidget, hanging out next to a classic convertible whose radio was blasting hits from the 50s. Much younger actors were playing hop-scotch and jacks (remember those?) on the sidewalk. Still others were doing the Stroll (remember that?). Guests also passed by a hula-hooping babe as they headed for the Ware Center to mingle with more actors dressed, coiffed and in character as Marilyn Monroe, Dean Martin and other famous faces from the 50s. Of course, Marilyn entertained with her signature Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend, while Dean charmed at the bar with his pal Frank Sinatra. Carmen Miranda danced, and a young Gene Kelly glided around the dance floor.

Guests arrived in full 50s mode, including Gale Zorian and Jim Hagelgans, who are pictured with Marc Robin, the Fulton’s executive artistic producer.

An Ed Sullivan impersonator announced the “really big show” to come, as more legendary icons – Elvis, Audrey Hepburn, Ann-Margaret, Liz Taylor, Rock Hudson and Buddy Holly – interacted with guests. The Beav’s mom, June Cleaver, whose TV-show living room was recreated in a nostalgic vignette, was also on hand.

The traditional silent and live auctions were augmented with an innovative money-maker: voting for the prom’s king and queen. Nominated guests jumped into the friendly competition, campaigning for cash votes throughout the night.

Reincarnated performances by Johnny Cash, Lucy and Ethel, Bill Haley and the Comets, and Dean Martin were just the warm-up for a group of children from the Fulton Academy of Theatre who relived the Mouseketeers of the Mickey Mouse Club with gusto!

Although the vintage celebs were faux, the night was a genuine star-studded affair, whose proceeds will help to support the Fulton’s multiple outreach and education programs and its operating budget. Bravo!

The Fulton’s 2018-19 season opens September 18 (through October 14) with Treasure Island. The schedule follows with: 42nd Street (November 13-December 30); Chicago (January 22-February 17); Once the Musical (March 19-April 17); Sophisticated Ladies ((April 30-May 25); and Mamma Mia! (June 4-July 14). For details, visit thefulton.org.

 

the long & short of it

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Working on the August “Back-to-School” feature and paying a recent visit to “The Lancastrian” Facebook page made me realize that 50 years ago I was preparing for my senior year of high school.

A visitor to the aforementioned Facebook page asked members if they remembered the names of former Lancaster photographers. A lot of baby boomers offered up Shelley Studio. Located where Tellus360 now stands, the studio captured senior portraits for many of the local high schools.

Unlike today’s rising seniors, whose senior portraits resemble portfolios and include wardrobe and scenery changes that reflect their interests, boys were instructed to wear suits, while the girls were told to wear black sweaters and pearls. It was all over in 15 minutes … to be forever enshrined in our yearbooks.

The various schools we visited for the August issue made me think back to my own school days. My first recollection of school involved my parents fighting over where I would go for elementary school. My mother was Catholic and felt I should attend parochial school. My Southern Baptist father pushed for public school. My mother won that battle. My most vivid memories involved food – I thought it was really neat that if you wanted to receive communion during morning Mass, you could bring breakfast to school to eat afterwards. I ate a lot of Tastykakes and washed them down with milk from my grandfather’s dairy.

As sixth grade approached, I was told I’d be transferring to public school. What brought that on, I still don’t know. It wasn’t fun being the new kid. Fortunately, the “smart girl” in class took me under her wing, and I became accepted. I will always be grateful to her for that kindness.

Junior high allowed us to get to know kids from the other towns in the district. To this day, whenever you meet someone who graduated from my high school, the conversation always begins with “what elementary school did you attend?”

Another junior high memory concerns a girl who was incredibly smart and was among the top in our class. However, because she was from a Plain sect, she had to leave school in eighth grade. I remember a group of girls gathered around her as she waited to board the bus for her final ride home. She was sobbing and kept saying all she wanted to do was go to school. I often wonder what became of her.

Back in the 60s, the school districts were entities of their own. Cornfields, not subdivisions, separated the districts. Students were seldom afforded the opportunity to meet their peers from other schools. So, you can imagine the excitement that swirled through our high school when we were told we would be taking part in an exchange program with the rich-kids’ school. I was selected to be an exchange student. I’ll always remember everyone peering out the windows of the school bus to see if the rumor was true – the student parking lot of the rich kids’ school was filled with Mercedes. We went back to our school to report that we didn’t see one Mercedes, and the kids seemed pretty normal.

I also remember how undiverse my school was. We had one African-American family, and they moved to a neighboring school district my sophomore year. There were no Asians, no Latinos. All we had was a very blonde Swedish foreign-exchange student.

However, one thing has not changed – that universal need to belong. Whenever Amish girls bring racy underwear to the counter at my part-time retail job, I think back to the Plain girls who would rush into the bathroom before school and change into English clothes, apply makeup and let their hair down in order to fit in. And, every afternoon they’d do the reverse in order to conform to the expectations of their parents and church.

Reunions are a funny thing. At fifth-year reunions, conversation centers on jobs and career paths. You pretty much hang with your group of friends. Tenth-year reunions focus on successes – the car you drive, where you live, etc. By the 15th and 20th, you say to heck with the cliques and social pecking order and talk to people you never got to know in high school. You come away having had a really good time.

We did have a 25th reunion that was very nice, but the incessant complaints about the cost of dinner and the fact that there was a cash bar prompted the planning committee to throw in the towel and disband.

I would assume somebody is planning a 50th. It’s difficult to believe that those who attend will be talking about Social Security, joint replacement surgery, retirement communities and grandchildren. I don’t feel a day over 18 – except when I forget where I put the car keys, which is an everyday occurrence!

One more thing. How prepared was I for my freshman year of college? Incredibly prepared. I started at a small private college in North Carolina and finished at one of its state universities. My freshman year was essentially a repeat of my senior year in high school. So, I went to a lot of happy hours and when February rolled around, I began working on my tan. My roommates and I went to the beach every weekend.

Yet, I nearly failed to graduate – through transferring, somehow I came up two hours short. The university allowed me to audit a physical education class, the final exam for which was swimming 20 laps of the pool.

So, my sister and I drove down to North Carolina in early December so that I could take my final exam. The instructor cautioned me to pace myself and take it easy. I kept mum on the fact that eau de chlorine was my favorite perfume. I nodded my head, dove in and whipped through eight laps. He stopped me, told me I passed and said my diploma would arrive in the mail.

Oh, and I did have the opportunity to go back to school. My son attended the same high school as dear old Mom. My initial impression for my first back-to-school night was a la Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz … “I don’t think we’re in Kansas anymore, Toto!” The hallways had names and directional signs! I didn’t recognize anything, and the map didn’t help. I wondered how kids made it from class to class in time. When I finally exited the building, I felt like I had just negotiated a maze!

– Sue Long

Miesse Candies is Sweet on Penn State Ice Cream

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Fans of the ice cream made by the Penn State University Berkey Creamery no longer have to travel to State College for a taste of one of Pennsylvania’s most famous confections. There is now a Lancaster City connection – Miesse Candies has returned to its roots and is home to an ice cream parlor that features Penn State’s iconic ice cream.

Fans of the ice cream made by the Penn State University Berkey Creamery no longer have to travel to State College for a taste of one of Pennsylvania’s most famous confections. There is now a Lancaster City connection – Miesse Candies has returned to its roots and is home to an ice cream parlor that features Penn State’s iconic ice cream.

Mention the word “candy” and people instantly envision chocolate. However, chocolate for the masses didn’t go mainstream until the years following World War I. In fact, Roy Miesse, whose father, Daniel Miesse, began operating a confections shop in Lancaster in 1875, remained in Europe following the war with the intent of learning all he could about making chocolate. “He toured confectioners’ homes and shops,” explains Tracy Artus, who has owned Miesse since 2010.

Initially, Miesse sold items such as caramels, taffy and peanut clusters. He also made his own ice cream. Chocolate was eventually added to the menu, and Miesse became a local sensation, growing to as many as eight stores and specializing in chocolate candy that was made from only the purest of ingredients. “We’ve always been a Wilbur-based company,” Tracy remarks.

“At the turn of the [20th] century, there were probably 30 candy stores operating in Lancaster,” Tracy notes. Miesse is one of the last to carry on the tradition, making it one of the oldest, continually operating confection companies in the country. “We have 200 different candies,” Tracy explains, adding that confections made from milk, dark and white chocolate are Miesse’s signature products. Custom and specialty items for celebrations such as weddings, corporate events and gift-giving have become a Miesse trademark.

Ten years before Daniel Miesse began making ice cream, Penn State University launched its dairy research program. Regarded as the oldest college creamery in the nation, the operation was originally housed in barns located behind what is present-day Old Main. In 1889, the creamery was relocated to a newly constructed building that provided for a cream-ripening room, office space and working areas. By 1892, Penn State had become the first collegiate institution in the country to offer a short course for those interested in learning how to make ice cream.

Further progress accompanied the arrival of the 20th century. The newly built Patterson Building allowed milk-processing operations to increase; research and development contributed to the introduction of pasteurized milk. The university also added the Dairy Manufacturing major to its curriculum. By 1932, 300 area dairy farms were supplying milk and cream to Penn State’s dairy operation, which serviced customers in the State College/Altoona region.

Ice cream became Penn State Creamery’s best-known product, which prompted the university to open a retail shop on campus. With the debut of “gourmet” ice cream in the 1980s, the creamery’s renown grew. Even Ben Cohen and Jerry Greenfield came calling – via a $5 correspondence course.
In 2006, after a decade of planning, the state-of-the-art Rodney A. Erickson Food Science building opened. It became the new home of the ice cream shop, whose name lengthened to the Penn State University Berkey Creamery in honor of two donors, Jeanne and Earl Berkey, whose Berkey Milk Company made it a practice to hire Penn State graduates. Martha Stewart toured the creamery as did The Food Network.

Penn State’s ice cream has only continued to garner more fans through cyberspace – the creamery’s products are shipped to 48 states on an annual basis. The menu has grown to include 120 flavors, 20 of which are in rotation at the shop at any given time. One flavor, Peachy Paterno, was named in honor of the football team’s second national championship in 1987.

The process hasn’t changed all that much in the last 153 years, as it still takes four days – milking to finished product – to produce ice cream. The recipe still entails four main ingredients – milk, cream, sugar and stabilizer. Penn State takes pride in the fact that every scoop of ice cream supports education, research, development and the community.

It seems only natural that Tracy Artus would choose ice cream from Penn State to serve at Miesse’s new ice cream parlor. Giving back and supporting the community are part of the reason why Tracy and her husband, Bob, bought the business. Fundraising functions across Lancaster County either have Miesse products on the menu or are part of silent/live auctions. “I love to help people,” Tracy says.

A graduate of Lancaster Catholic High School, Tracy grew up eating Miesse’s candies. She became a Miesse employee as a result of visiting the Willow Street store just prior to St. Patrick’s Day. “The woman working there looked frazzled,” she recalls of the store’s hectic, pre-holiday pace. Still, Tracy was intrigued and thought it might be fun to work in a candy store, so she applied for a part-time position. She parlayed her background in human relations into growing Miesse’s wholesale business. By the fall of 2010, she was a co-owner and three months later, she became the sole owner (the last Miesse family member had exited the business in the 1980s).

Tracy says her biggest challenge was convincing the public that “we’re still here.” Candy lovers assumed Miesse no longer existed in the aftermath of a devastating fire that occurred at the factory on Lafayette Street in 2006. Shuttered stores and a lack of advertising and marketing only reinforced the public’s notion that Miesse had closed.

Tracy went to work growing the menu and becoming the face of Miesse. Five years ago, she moved the entire operation to North Water Street. At the time, the location wasn’t exactly high-profile, but today, the block is bustling. “We consider ourselves part of Gallery Row,” she says, noting the store is surrounded by galleries and restaurants. Lancaster Marionette Theatre is a few doors down, while Zoetropolis Theatre and Columbia Kettle Works are opening ventures at the other end of the block. The upper floors of the 125-year-old repurposed tobacco warehouse are home to Steeple View Lofts, which is operated by Landis Homes and is geared to residents over the age of 55.

And, Tracy also began opening satellite locations, including Central Market and the new Lancaster Marketplace, which replaced the store in Overlook Park. Located in Hawthorne Center, Lancaster Marketplace is a consortium of other food-oriented shops offering “fresh, local and artisanal” products. It’s located in the space that was vacated by Alfred Angelo.

The ice cream venture was always part of Tracy’s game plan. “We needed something that wasn’t geared to holidays,” she says, referring to the big three candy-driven days on the calendar – Christmas, Easter and Valentine’s. Six months of the year it’s a feast (they will begin gearing up for Christmas this month), while the other six can be near-famine for stores such as Miesse.

Tracy began exploring her options. Her goal was to bring high-quality ice cream made fresh with no preservatives to the city. Friends recommended Penn State’s ice cream, so she and Bob took a day trip to taste the toast of the Nittany Valley. The Penn State University Berkey Creamery agreed to sign on with Miesse.

Because of the long tenures of both Penn State’s creamery and Miesse, Tracy deemed that the look of her ice cream parlor would be important. Tracy acheived that goal when she was gifted a vintage soda fountain by the Shultz family of York. Its original home had been the Shultz Drug Store. It then spent another part of its life in the retail shop at Wolfgang Candies before finding a new home at Miesse Candies & Ice Cream Parlor.

Built in 1932 by the Liquid Carbonic Company, the 12-foot-long fountain features freezer cases for eight ice cream flavors, pumps for syrups and six containers for sauces and toppings. The features allow Miesse to serve ice cream cones, sundaes, milkshakes, cream sodas and egg creams.

In need of some TLC, she and Bob drove the fountain to the American Soda Fountain Company in Chicago, where it was serviced and restored. “The job took a year,” she notes. While the soda fountain was being restored, Bob took charge of customizing the antique mirrored backbar for the space. “None of this would be possible without him,” Tracy acknowledges.

Tracy sees the ice cream and candy complementing each other. Topping selections for the ice cream include Miesse candies. And, Tracy hopes that visitors to the ice cream parlor will be inspired to take a candy treat home with them.

Miesse Candies & Ice Cream Parlor is located at 118 N. Water Street in Lancaster. The candy shop is open Mon.-Tues., 9 a.m.-5p.m., Wed.-Sat., 9 a.m.-9 p.m. and Sun., 12-5 p.m. The ice cream parlor opens daily at 12 p.m. and closes at the same time as the candy shop. For hours of other locations, visit miessecandies.com or call 717-392-6011.

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