CELEBRATING LANCASTER COUNTY'S PEOPLE, SCENERY,

HERITAGE, STYLE & POINT OF VIEW SINCE 1987.

Drager Farms … the Focus is on Healthy Living

Nathan Drager lives and farms by the motto, healthy soil = healthy plants = healthy animals = healthy people. “I could sit and talk about this stuff all day long,” he says.

Nathan’s 50-acre farm, which sits between Route 441 and the Susquehanna River just north of Marietta, boasts its own little ecosystem, as three of the USDA’s Plant Hardiness Zones converge in the area. On the day we visited late last October, heavy fog was rolling across the fields, and the grass was heavy with dew. Nathan describes the soil as “black and sandy, with some limestone.” He points out that it “grows good grass,” which is the main – as in 100% – component of his Lowline Black Angus herd’s diet.

Nathan bought his acreage from Armstrong World Industries in the mid-90s. He’s no neophyte to farming – it’s a Drager family tradition. His great-grandfather, Walter Drager, Sr., started it with his farm in West Donegal Township. His six sons – including Nathan’s grandfather, Harold – had farms of their own. “There were Drager-owned farms all over this area,” Nathan remarks. The tradition carried into the next generation, as Nathan’s father, Dennis, became a dairy farmer. His 200-acre farm is adjacent to Nathan’s, as is an uncle’s farm. “My dad’s farm was one of the Top 10 dairy farms in the county back in the 70s,” he notes.

Nathan worked on the farm from childhood but always vowed the life of a dairy farmer was not for him. For a dairy farmer, life revolves around the cows. Milking won’t wait … for anything. He also regards dairy cows as the “divas” of the bovine world. “It seems there’s always something wrong with one of them,” he says. He tried to leave farming several times, but as he admits, “Once it’s in your blood, it’s hard to get it out.” The ultimate test came in 2004 when his father “retired” and sold his herd.

Nathan saw an opportunity to try something different, and in 2005 he purchased three beef cattle. His intention was “just to play” and see if he liked that type of farming. Subsequently, he became interested in organic, pasture-based farming and began doing his research.

By 2006, he had dedicated 10 acres to rotational grazing. On that acreage, he refrained from using chemicals, herbicides and pesticides. To his amazement, the pasture grass thrived. “It’s all about soil life,” he explains. “If you build up the topsoil, the grass puts down long roots and can tolerate everything from heavy rain to drought.”

Here’s where another motto comes into play: “If you’re good to nature, nature will be good to you.” He’s discovered that healthy grass will simply take over and choke out weeds. When weeds do manage to get a foothold, he digs them out by hand. “I’m not certified organic, but I do follow the guidelines,” he explains. However, the farm is dually Certified Grassfed and Animal Welfare Approved by the organization, A Greener World (AGW).

In 2012, he purchased a bull and started a breeding operation. The only injections the cattle receive are for tetanus. They are also free of hormones and antibiotics. Seeing the film, GMO-OMG convinced Nathan he was on the right track from both a health (animals and humans) and environmental perspective.

Nathan’s philosophy is “let a cow be a cow – don’t overthink it.” Yet, he is protective of them, ensuring they always have shade and watching the weather, so that he is prepared to deal with snow storms, which means rolling out hay as a substitute for the grass.

Several years ago, Nathan began selling beef to the public through a shop he set up in his barn. He sells beef in 1/8, 1/4 and 1/2 shares; he also offers special cuts and ground beef. This year he was sold out of shares by mid-summer. “I’m still playing with the numbers,” he says of the herd size that’s needed to meet demand. (Last year he wintered 34 head of cattle; in the summer he might have 40-45, some with calves.)

He thinks back to the beginning of the venture and recalls sitting at the bar at the Railroad House and pondering what he was going to do with product that had gone unsold. He shared his dilemma with Joey Bowden, who co-owns and manages the restaurant, and to his surprise, Joey said, “I’ll take it.” A partnership was forged.

The venture has proven to be a success, and it pairs beautifully with the restaurant’s focus on utilizing locally grown products for the menu items Chef Talon Lewis creates. “Right now, I’m providing them with 100 pounds of beef every two weeks,” Nathan reports. He’s proud to know that the restaurant’s guests enjoy his products and appreciate his approach to raising cattle. “I’m aware that the price point isn’t for everyone,” he says.

Nathan has a new project in the works. His barn, which probably dates to the 1850s (his house was built in 1858), is being renovated. He and his fiancée, Christel Emenheiser, hope to utilize it for events such as farm-to-table dinners, healthy living seminars/workshops and yoga classes. He sees such offerings as a perfect complement to the Northwest Lancaster County River Trail, which is a short walk (or bike ride) away from his farm. “I can’t believe all the people who use it,” he says. “They’re soon going to have to put a traffic light at the intersection of my road and Vinegar Ferry.”

The close proximity of the river trail also prompted the two to open their farm to Hipcamp (envision Airbnb for campers), which is geared to ecological-minded vacationers who are looking for a way to support farmers such as Nathan. Hipcampers get to take an economical vacation and engage in an up-close view of farming. (For more information, visit hipcamp.com.)

Nathan is also focusing on raising a new generation of farmers. He credits his grandson, Asher, for “changing my outlook on everything. I just love spending time with him.” Nathan and the 2-year-old spend their time together tending to the cattle, as well as the goats and the pigs that live on the farm.

For more information about Drager Farms, visit dragerfarms.com or call 717-951-0327.

Nissley Vineyards: A Toast to a Third Generation

Nissley Vineyards is “rooted” in tradition. What started as a hobby for J. Richard Nissley has turned into an internationally award-winning vineyard. But, the estate is turning over a new leaf, so to speak.

Located on 300 scenic acres in Bainbridge, the vineyards and estate consist of the stone-arch winery – which was once an old tobacco barn – an 18th-century mill and miller’s house, a winding creek, open meadows and family residences. The first plantings were established in the mid-70s by Nissley and his son, John. Soon afterward, John’s three sisters – twins, Judith and Joyce, and Mary Lee – joined the family business.
According to their website, “Judith expanded the enterprise, organizing, and executing plans to open the off-premise extension shops. She also conceived and began the Music in the Vineyards series. Joyce applied her mathematical and organizational skills to our business accounting and management of our personalized wine service. Mary Lee moved home later, applying her knack for horticulture to the preservation and beautification of the property.”
The earned success of the vineyard was a true family affair. However, as years passed, the family began to wonder who would carry on the winery and its tradition.

That question was answered by third-generation vintner Jonas Nissley, who decided to jump into the family business with both feet, but it wasn’t exactly what he had planned. “As a kid, I worked here at the lawn concerts and out in the vineyards, and I didn’t really enjoy it that much,” he admits. “I wouldn’t say I hated it, but I disliked it, and I think it’s because at that age I couldn’t appreciate the final product. It was like all this work goes into what? Well, I couldn’t enjoy it because I wasn’t 21,” Jonas laughs. “As time went on, I got an appreciation for the wine, and I started to see what all this work was going toward and the value of a family business.”

Jonas had plans to become a teacher. Then, about two months before finishing his master’s degree, he said it “all of a sudden became clear to me. It wasn’t last minute, but no one was really expecting it. I wasn’t expecting it. It was one of those ‘a-ha’ moments,” he says. “So, I finished my master’s degree and about a month after graduation, I came back here and started full time, which was June 2016.”

A new generation signaled a time of transition for Nissley’s. For instance, the Nissleys appointed Kyle Jones as the head winemaker in May of this year. He came on board in September 2016 as a full-time assistant to former head winemaker Jen Wampler. When Jen left, Kyle easily transitioned into his new role.

And, speaking of transitioning, as Jonas’ father, John, who is the vineyard supervisor, prepares for retirement, a new supervisor will step into his position. Steve Foreman, who has worked at the vineyard since 2004 and, according to Jonas, has been his dad’s right-hand man for many years, will continue the daily duties of overseeing the vineyard.

Another idea brought to fruition in 2016 was Yoga in the Vineyards, which came about when Jonas’ mother, Melody, took a yoga class in Marietta. “I bought my mom a Christmas gift: three private yoga instructions at Vital Tree Yoga in Marietta. And, she began talking to the owner about working at Nissley Vineyards and how we’re doing more events,” Jonas says. “The owner said she does these pop-up yoga events at different places, and that kind of got the conversation rolling. My mom told her that we have a really beautiful property and that it would be an ideal place to do yoga. So, the three of us started talking and got it going.”

As for the main event – the wine – Nissley celebrated its 40th anniversary in July by introducing a new sparkling wine, Strawberry Kiss. The wine made its debut during a mid-July Music in the Vineyards event, where thousands listened and danced to the sounds of the band Mama Tried.

As Nissley Vineyards enters this new chapter of life, more changes come with it, such as new partnerships. “This fall and in the winter, we’re going to be partnering with Giant Food Stores to do wine and food pairings,” Jonas explains. “Giant will bring in some of the items they sell on their shelves and in their deli, and we’ll pair that with wines. We’re also going to have a nutritionist from Giant come in and talk about the health ramifications of certain foods, and we’ll talk about the wine and how they all go together.”

Currently, in addition to state stores, Nissley wines can be found in Weis Markets and at Wegmans. Jonas says their wines will soon be sold in several Rutter’s stores and local Giant stores that carry liquor licenses.

Hosting private events is yet another addition that is on the horizon. “We had people constantly calling and contacting us for weddings, birthday parties, this and that. And, why not? We have this great property,” he shares. “Right now, we have four weddings booked. It’s a great way to introduce people to the property and the brand.”

And, with hopes of it happening in late summer/early fall, Jonas shares Nissley will soon release a reserve line of wines. “They’re the first barrel-aged wines that we’ve done in years. It’s going to be a Cabernet Franc reserve and a Merlot reserve, and they’re all aged in oak.”

Nissley Vineyards & Winery Estate. 140 Vintage Drive, Bainbridge. 717-426-3514 or nissleywine.com.

More to Check Out in Marietta

Shank’s Tavern

Freddy States fondly refers to owner Bob Shank as the “chairman” of Marietta’s dining scene. “It seems as if he’s been here from the beginning,” he says. Actually, a Shank has owned the tavern since the 1930s. And, Shank’s has another impressive claim to fame – dating to 1814, when it was built by retired steamboat captain, James Stackhouse, it’s considered to be the “oldest, continually operating tavern in Lancaster County.” While Shank’s is known for its Friday seafood extravaganza – notably the jumbo lump crab cakes – flatbread pizza and Bob’s Famous Chili are other fan favorites. Shank’s was also an early devotee of the microbrew movement and often hosts tasting events for up-and-coming craft breweries. In honor of the tavern’s 200th anniversary (2014), Stoudt’s created a commemorative ale for the occasion. This summer they hosted a tasting event for a canned wine that was making its debut. Oh, and don’t miss Bloody Mary Sunday (brunch). Entertainment is offered on weekends, with open mic nights held during the week (acoustic on Tuesdays and electric on Thursdays). Shank’s bar can be rented for special events for a nominal fee. Did we mention Shank’s is supposedly haunted?
36 S. Waterford Ave., Marietta. For information, call
717-426-1205 or visit shankstavern.com.

Nick’s Bistro

Long-time restaurateur Nick Liazis took over the shuttered property that had been home to the renowned Josephine’s in 2014. The first thing he did was reconfigure the entry way. In the past, guests entered through a front door and had to make their way down a dimly lit hallway. The trip was worth it – the dining room, with its exposed log walls, gleaming wood floors and fireplace, was gorgeous. Now, guests follow a walkway to the rear of the building and enter into a space that holds a bar and more casual dining area. It’s a busy place in the fall, as Nick’s subscribes to the Big Ten Network and the NFL Sunday Ticket. As for the original dining room, it remains intact, and can be reserved for special occasions. The bistro’s website describes the menu as “Classic American with unique and creative feature items.” For example, crab cakes are on the menu, as are BBQ ribs and grilled tenderloin tips.
324 W. Market St., Marietta. For information, call
717-604-1137 or visit nicksbistromarietta.com.

Stanley’s Trail Side Spirits & Steakhouse

The building in which Stanley’s is located has served many uses since the early 1800s – home, trading post, hotel, general store and a restaurant. Dave and Val Baker, who have owned it since 2015, carried out an extensive renovation, revealing its original log construction and wood paneling/beams. They also revised the menu, placing the emphasis on beef – aged Angus ribeye, New York strip (including a 44-ounce size), smoked brisket and burgers (How does a Blacked Bacon Bourbon Burger sound?). Penn Live deemed Stanley’s as one of the 11 Best Steak Dinners in Central PA. If you plan to hit the trail, Sunday breakfast starts at 10 a.m.
392 E. Front St., Marietta. For information, call 717-604-2088 or visit stanleystrailside.com.

Pig Iron Brewing Company

At most restaurants, there is a food menu and a drink menu. At Pig Iron, there are menus devoted to beer (nearly 80 microbrews are available at any given time), tequila, moonshine, whiskey/bourbon, gin, vodka and rum. This place even hosts a Second Shift Happy Hour (Monday-Thursday, 11 p.m.-12 a.m.). The food menu pairs beautifully with the libations and includes cheesesteaks, chicken corn chowder, wings, burgers, smoked items, seafood (Bourbon Street Shrimp, anyone?) and more. Live music is offered on the deck on the weekend.
40 E. Front St., Marietta. For more information, call
717-604-1161 or visit pigironbrewingco.com.

Parma Pizza & Grill: Launched in 2006, Parma has grown to having six locations in South Central PA, including one in Marietta. The menu includes a selection of salads, gourmet pizzas, cheesesteaks, hoagies, stromboli, calzones, wraps, wings, pasta and more.
132 W. Market St., Marietta. For more information, call
717-604-1134 or visit parmapizzaandgrill.com.

Mulberry Thrill: It seems people can’t get enough of Mulberry Thrill’s ice cream sandwiches that pair cookies from Wendy Jo’s Homemade and ice cream from Carmen & David’s. The menu also features classic popsicles, frozen whole fruit bars and more. Cold-brew coffee is also a specialty. The patio is furnished with vintage lawn chairs.
Rear of 100 W. Market St., Marietta. Find it on Facebook @mulberrythrill.

Sproutstream: Food trucks are all the rage, and Marietta is home to one called Sproutstream by Sven’s Café. Owned by the husband-wife team of Jeremy and Audrey Pombo, it specializes in artisan sandwiches, tacos and fine-quality coffees. During any given week, the truck can be found at regional wineries, private events and community celebrations.
For more information, call 717-669-4188 or visit svensmarietta.com.

Susquehanna Manor: Innkeepers Shane and Rachel Patterson host tea parties at their country inn. As many as 35 guests can be accommodated in the Grand Ball Room, on the wrap-around porch or in the gardens for occasions such as showers, birthday/anniversary parties, reunions, etc.
3272 Maytown Rd., Marietta.
For more information, call 717-604-1854 or visit susquehannamanor.com.

Marco’s Italian Restaurant & Pizzeria: Owner Marco Sardi represents a fourth generation of restaurateurs whose roots extend back to Italy. After making a stop in New York, the family arrived in Lancaster County. In business since 1974, Marco’s has been a River Road fixture since 1996. Homemade is the key word here, as soups, bread, sauces and more are made fresh. Oh, and there’s also Italian desserts.
1410 River Rd., Marietta. For more information, call
717-426-2210 or visit marcos-pizza.net.

Events in the West

September 1 | Music in the Vineyards

The Uptown Band closes out the season with music from Motown to present day. Nissley Vineyards & Winery, 140 Vintage Dr., Bainbridge. Gates open at 6 p.m., music begins at 7:30 p.m. Over 21 only. Call 717-426-3514 or visit nissleywine.com for details.

September 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 | Haldeman Mansion Open House

Tour the riverside property that was home to renowned naturalist and philologist Samuel Steman Haldeman. The Haldeman Mansion Preservation Society has been working to preserve and restore the buildings on the property. 230 Locust Grove Rd., Bainbridge. 1-4 p.m. Visit haldeman-mansion.org for details.

September 8 & 22 | Yoga in the Vineyards

Laurie Rinard of Vital Tree Yoga will lead the class. Afterwards, sample Nissley wine and have a picnic on the grounds. Class size is limited. Nissley Vineyards & Winery, 140 Vintage Dr., Bainbridge. 10:30 a.m. Call 717-426-3514 or visit nissleywine.com for details.

September 8 | Tavern Dinner at Haldeman Mansion

Wine, cheese and other appetizers start the evening. The multi-course dinner will be accompanied by live music, conversation and historic atmosphere. 230 Locust Grove Rd., Bainbridge. 4:30 p.m. For tickets, call 717-426-3794 or email elainekjackson@centurylink.net.

September 9 | Marietta Garden Tour

The tour will provide gardeners and outdoor enthusiasts with ideas and insight for the end-of-summer and fall months. This year’s tour will feature eight beautiful properties in the borough, ranging from small accent gardens to creatively designed larger gardens. A plant swap is planned – bring a plant and swap it for another! Seminars related to landscaping will be offered during the day, as well. Tickets are $10 in advance and can be purchased at Bron’s Deli, Marietta; River Road Produce, Route 441; Floral Designs of Mount Joy; and the Susquehanna Chamber of Commerce, Columbia. Tour-day tickets are $12 and can be purchased at the Community House (264 W. Market St.). Pork BBQ and all the fixings will be available at the Community House that day; dinner ticket is $10. For information, visit mariettacommunityhouse.org.

September 22 | Emerald Evening

McCleary’s Public House will be hosting this year’s fundraising event that will benefit the Marietta Community House and Susquehanna Stage Co. Winners of the raffle (tickets available through September 22) will take a trip for two to Ireland. Dinner will have an Irish theme. Event also features silent and live auctions. For details/tickets, visit mariettacommunityhouse.org.

October 5-14 | Clybourne Park

Susquehanna Stage Co., which is celebrating its 10th anniversary as Marietta’s home for community theater, continues its season with this A Raisin in the Sun spin-off that is based on historical events that occurred in Chicago. Each season the company presents three plays, three musicals and one children’s show. The productions are held in Marietta’s former movie theatre, which was built in 1914 and closed in 1997. The stage company purchased it in 2016 and hopes to fully restore it. 264 W. Market St. (rear), Marietta. Call 717-426-1277 or visit susquehannastageco.com for details.

October 7 | Apple Fall Festival

All things apple – cider, desserts, dumplings and more – will be celebrated at the Haldeman Mansion. Event will also feature food, children’s games, music and bug expert, Ryan “The Bugman” Bridge. 230 Locust Grove Rd., Bainbridge. 12-4 p.m. Call 717-426-3794 or visit haldeman-mansion.org for details.

October 13 | Marietta Blues Fest & Pub Crawl

Live music will be performed at restaurants and taverns throughout Marietta beginning mid-afternoon. Enjoy drink and food specials and no cover. For details, visit parivertowns.com.

October 27 | Nightmare on Front Street Costume Ball

The “Best Party in Town” takes place at Shank’s Tavern! In honor of Halloween, the evening features music, drink, pizza and the always-popular costume contest. 36 S. Waterford Ave., Marietta. Party kicks off at 6 p.m. For details, call 717-426-1205 or visit shankstavern.com.

November 30-December 16 | 1940’s Radio Hour

Presented by Susquehanna Stage Co. 264 W. Market St. (rear), Marietta. Call 717-426-1277 or visit susquehannastageco.com for details.

December 2 | 53rd Annual Candlelight Tour of Homes

Regarded as one of the state’s oldest home tours, Marietta’s holiday extravaganza features eight decorated homes, arts and crafts, strolling carolers, a tree display at the Union Meeting House, a fife and drum band, vignettes by the Susquehanna Stage Co. and more. Proceeds benefit Marietta Restoration Associates. 11 a.m.-7 p.m. For details, visit mariettarestoration.org.

Heart Café

“I’m really excited to be in Marietta,” says Chef Jason Hampton, who took over the East Market Street café in June. “We’ve been warmly received by residents and other businesses.”

Jason, who graduated with honors from Johnson & Wales (Virginia Beach campus) in 2000, has always dreamed of owning his own restaurant. “It’s been a four- or five-year process,” he explains. “I was looking for the right opportunity that would allow me to do something different and unique.” In the meantime, he served as the executive chef and director of dietary services at a senior living community and continues to operate his Elizabethtown-based private chef and catering service, In a Pinch, out of a 21-foot trailer “that is probably more tricked out than the kitchen at Heart Café,” he says. He views becoming a business owner as a “culmination of working in restaurants, catering and learning what people want.”

Becoming Heart Café’s owner happened almost by accident. “I was asked to consult with the owners after it had been open for a year,” he explains. In his opinion, the café needed full-time owner/operators. “The owners couldn’t commit to being at the café for day-to-day operations and the then 20-person LLC had full-time commitments,” he explains. It occurred to Jason that this might be the opportunity he was looking for. “So, I made an offer and Heart Café was mine. It all happened really fast.”

Jason initially closed the location in order to make some cosmetic improvements (he worked with Pete and Carol Heth on the project) and design a menu. Heart Café had a soft reopening in early August, and Jason plans to have a grand reopening in late September. He loves the space, explaining that the bright and airy café is located in the bar of what was once a 19th-century hotel.

For now, it is open Wednesday through Sunday for breakfast and lunch. But, Jason is not offering standard fare. For example, the Eggwich includes his signature Tomato Bacon Jam. The Fat Elvis Belgium Plate is composed of waffles, sliced bananas, bacon, chocolate shavings, peanut butter cream cheese and an optional dip of vanilla ice cream. The lunch menu is equally as adventurous and includes soup, salads and sandwiches.

He’s excited to be working with Lancaster Farm Fresh Cooperative and is entertaining the idea of making shares available through Heart Café next season. He is also selling Humankind water products, as well as Boylan Craft Soda and Italian Cream Soda. A coffee bar provides a wide range of tastes, as does the fusion water. Ice cream and other treats are also available.

Jason hopes to attract area residents and, of course, those using the river trail for recreation are on his radar. As photographer/biking enthusiast Jordan Bush pointed out, trail users will be looking for “water, a bathroom, caffeine and a bite to eat,” and Heart Café can provide all four, plus a bike rack that is adjacent to the plant-filled patio.

Jason is already looking to the future. “I will be making the café available for private social events in the evening,” he notes. Online ordering and catering are also in the planning stage.

“I’m excited to partner with Nathan Drager of Drager Farms on hosting farm-to-table dinners,” Jason says. He will also be designing and preparing the farm-to-table fundraising dinner (September 15) for the organization Lancaster County Field of Hope. In Jason’s case, it seems a chef’s work is never done.

17 East Market Street, Marietta. Open Wednesday-Sunday, 8 a.m.-2 p.m.

Call 717-604-1169 or visit Facebook.com/heartcafe.marietta.

McCleary’s Public House

You might say that McCleary’s is Freddy States’ ongoing fixer-upper project. First, he transformed a patio at the rear of the property into a glass-enclosed four-season garden room. His latest project is McCleary’s Pier, a sand-filled, beach-like area that’s adjacent to the garden room. He is tinkering with opening an ice cream window and plans to open a bakery on an adjacent property.

He met his wife, Danielle, and business partner, Joey Bowden, through working at Haydn Zug’s. “I learned a lot from Terry Lee,” he says of Haydn Zug’s former owner. He also worked for Greg Bucher at Chancey’s Pub in East Petersburg and liked its casual atmosphere. “We aimed for something in-between the two,” he says of McCleary’s menu and vibe.

Freddy and Danielle have owned McCleary’s since 2006. The pub, which was launched by the late Kip and Michele McCleary in 2000, makes its home in a former hotel on West Front Street.

The expansive and varied menu (from both a food and spirits perspective) is an attraction of its own, but it’s the extras that have helped to develop a devoted clientele. Music is offered every week, Wednesday through Saturday. Wednesdays feature local talent such as Magill & Friends (Celtic and Irish music on the first Wednesday); Sporting Hill Ramblers (original songs on the second Wednesday); Adam Blessing (singer/songwriter on the third Wednesday) and Turn the Page (electric and acoustic classic rock on the fourth Wednesday). An array of musical entertainment fills the calendar Thursday-Saturday. If music isn’t your thing, Trivia Night is held on Wednesdays. And, if you’re out and about on weeknights from 9-11, there’s Late Night Happy Hour. The garden room is a popular place to hold rehearsal dinners, birthday parties and other milestone events.

As for the menu, you don’t have to wait until St. Patrick’s Day rolls around to enjoy Irish food. The menu always features Irish favorites such as Bangers and Mash, Shepherd’s Pie, and Fish and Chips, which, according to a survey conducted by the Old Speckled Hen Beer Company, is among the Top 5 in the country.

130 West Front Street, Marietta. Open daily.

Call 717-426-2225 or visit mcclearyspub.com.

The Railroad House Inn

Like many restaurants in Marietta, the Railroad House, which dates to 1823, has seen its fair share of uses. Originally, it did double duty by providing canal workers with lodging and those waiting to catch a train with a “depot.” For a time it was a private residence. Architect John DeVitry purchased it (along with John Westenhoefer) and hand dug the cellar to create space for what would become a 60s-era coffee house and later a disco. A succession of restaurateurs/inn owners operated the Railroad House until 2008, when Eric Farr and Tracy Beam took over the inn. Co-owners Freddy States and Joey Bowden assumed the operation of the restaurant.

Then, the enterprise came crashing down. Flood waters associated with Tropical Storm Lee (2011) inundated the cellar and first floor. The cellar sustained the worst damage, as the muddy river water impacted every nook and cranny of the space.

But, as with any storm, blue skies eventually return. Such was the case with the Railroad House. Starting almost from scratch (the 60s-era bar somehow survived unscathed), Freddy and Joey (with help from friends and family) created the Perry Street Cellar, whose focus is craft beer and pub fare. Today, the rustic space is also used for monthly beer dinners, Vinyl Wednesday (fans of vinyl albums can bring their collections in to share with others) and, on occasion, private events. Upstairs, upscale fare is served in the two dining rooms – the decor of the main room was inspired by the steampunk look and includes railroad-oriented memorabilia, antiques and art, while the smaller room takes its inspiration from Marietta’s colonial days.

Chef Talon Lewis, who is a graduate of Donegal High School and YTI, oversees the menu. “Growing up, I always enjoyed working in the kitchen,” he recalls. After graduating from Donegal, he set his sights on culinary school. “I like the rush that working in a busy kitchen provides,” he says. He is a proponent of utilizing seasonal and sustainable ingredients and reports that he grows tomatoes, peppers and herbs in a garden behind the restaurant. “I’d like to grow more, but light is an issue back there,” he explains.

Like many restaurants, the Railroad House is experimenting with events that attract new guests. For example, musical entertainment is regularly offered in the cellar, and this summer, yoga classes were held outdoors on the property. In the spring, a fundraising event called Chowderfest benefits animal-welfare organizations. An increased emphasis on weddings is in the planning stages. And, the train depot on the opposite corner of Perry and Front streets begs for a new use. “One of these days…” Freddy muses.

As for Joey, he agrees with Freddy’s assessment that the trail, cuisine and history complement each other. “At the Railroad House, nature, great food and historic architecture merge,” he remarks. Chef Talon adds, “It’s an exciting time to be in Marietta – we’re just out here doing our thing.”

280 West Front Street, Marietta. Open Wednesday-Sunday. Call 717-426-4141 or visit railroadhouseinn.com.

Thoroughly Modern Lancaster

Lancaster may be the epicenter of colonial and traditional styling where kitchen design is concerned, but if this kitchen is any indication, we have our fair share of modernists among us.

David White, whose company, Kitchen Encounters, designed and executed this kitchen, readily admits that modern is a style that has “rarely” been requested among the clients he has worked with over the last 11 years. “It’s not typical for us, or for Lancaster, that’s for sure,” he reports. “We like what we like in Lancaster, and that’s basically traditional.”

Still, David and his team were excited to be given the opportunity to work on a project that would essentially be outside the box from a style perspective. “Most people have an idea of the style they want, but need a little help to get the look they are after,” he explains. “However, Jackie and Ray, our clients for this project, knew exactly what they wanted.”

The project would also present the team with some first-time “encounters,” including the waterfall island and touch-latch cabinetry. The shades of gray color scheme also represented a deviation from the norm. “White Shaker cabinets still dominate in Lancaster County,” David notes. “But, I think people are increasingly embracing gray – I think they’re more apt to use it instead of beige.”

Jackie and Ray had made the decision to downsize and purchased a house that would allow them to fully convey their love of modern styling via a whole-house remodeling project. The kitchen in their previous house was traditional in style, and as Jackie explains, “We liked it, but it just wasn’t us.”
When the couple asked family and friends for recommendations for a kitchen designer, a friend of their daughter’s suggested Kitchen Encounters. At their initial meeting, the couple explained their vision and shared they enjoy being involved in the selection process. “We have the same taste and work really well together,” Jackie says of her and Ray’s fondness for perusing magazines and the Internet for products and ideas. “I watch a lot of HGTV, and the first time I saw a waterfall island, I knew I wanted one,” she adds.

The gray color scheme is a carryover from their previous home. “We remodeled our master bath and went with a gray color scheme and loved it,” she continues. “So, we decided to use gray as the color basis for our new kitchen.”

With the style established, designing a multi-functional space was next on the agenda. Jackie loves to cook, and both she and Ray enjoy entertaining. A window-filled addition had created space for casual dining and seating areas, but the area between them essentially resulted in dead space. David suggested that they put it to better use and expand the footprint of the kitchen into it. “By doing so, we were able to provide the kitchen with two islands,” he explains.

The larger, multi-tiered island does double duty as a breakfast bar and cooking space. Drawers and cabinets are designed to stay organized with special pull-outs that accommodate utensils, spices, baking sheets, etc. The smaller waterfall island provides prep space thanks to an inset sink; it also allows for easy cleanup, courtesy of a dishwasher and pull-out trash receptacles. It also does duty as a staging area for the adjacent formal dining room. A wall that holds the paneled refrigerator and stacked ovens is easily accessible from both islands.

The touch-latch cabinetry is very much on trend and was highly visible at January’s Kitchen & Bath Industry Show (KBIS) that was held in Orlando. Some refer to the style as handless cabinetry, since it allows you to merely bump a cabinet or drawer and it automatically opens. They close just as easily. “All the cabinets in this kitchen are custom,” David points out. “The style gives you a really clean, minimalist look, especially since hardware isn’t involved.”

No kitchen is complete without the finishing touches. The islands literally sparkle, thanks to the quartz countertops that distinguish them. “We had to use specially engineered brackets to hold the weight of the quartz,” David notes. Quartz counters also top the lower cabinets but deliver a more matte look. Wall niches are highlighted by tile in a basket-weave pattern. The porcelain tile floor also reflects the basket-weave effect. Ray specified its layout. “The offset way in which it was laid delivers more of a random pattern,” Jackie explains.

Other design elements include pendant lighting over the main island and top-down/bottom-up shades on the oversized windows that admit filtered light or allow for a view of the gardens. Modern stools provide comfortable seating at the breakfast bar. All, of course, tie into the gray color scheme. “Between the style and the color, you have a very modern kitchen,” David remarks.

As for Jackie and Ray, they enjoyed the collaborative effort. “They were in touch with us every day,” Jackie says of the Kitchen Encounters team. “They explained everything explicitly. I feel we made some new friends.”

 

 

Credits

Design/Installation: Kitchen Encounters
Appliances: Martin Appliance

Aura Espresso Room: A Stop on Queen Street

I must have walked down Queen Street dozens of times and never noticed the cute little coffee shop next to Issei Noodle. Walking down the street, I became aware of a crowd on the sidewalk waiting near what appeared to be a takeout window. People smiling and holding clear cups of coffee hung around chatting and sitting at charming white lattice sidewalk seating. Not a huge coffee drinker myself (I typically opt for tea, much to the chagrin of my coffee-enthused friends). I continued past, thinking that though the shop looked like an inviting little spot, it wasn’t likely to have much on the menu that would suit me.

A couple weeks later, while I was doing an ‘Instagram takeover’ for Lancaster County magazine’s companion publication Dining in Lancaster, I noticed a message had been sent in inviting someone from the publication to come down and try out something called Aura Espresso Room, a coffee shop in downtown Lancaster. I tried to remember if I’d ever heard of it or noticed it walking by, but I was hard pressed to think of anywhere that wasn’t the more widely known Mean Cup or Passenger Coffee, which most of my friends frequented. A look at Aura’s Instagram feed revealed that they were the very place I had dismissed weeks prior.

Later that day I found myself once again walking down Queen Street and decided to stop in. I introduced myself to the man and woman behind the counter, and they introduced themselves as the owners, one a Lancaster native and the other originally from Greece. Upon asking them what they thought I should try, I was presented with a sandwich and a vanilla affogato. Since it was a nice afternoon, I opted to sit outside at one of the white tables, finding myself delighted at the potted basil plant with which I shared the table.

The sandwich, labelled as “The Greek” on the menu, was as good as it was simple. Made with feta, tomatoes and cucumber served on a baguette and sprinkled with olive oil and oregano, the taste was surprisingly flavorful for a meatless sandwich. The acidity of the feta (a classic ingredient in Greek food) in combination with the milder tomato and cucumber was a great balance that I’ll be sure to replicate at home in the future. The addition of the baguette (a French twist to an otherwise Mediterranean combination) absorbed the oil and herbs, contributing to the surprising richness of the whole affair.

While the sandwich was great, the vanilla affogato was undeniably the highlight of my visit to Aura Espresso Room. This dessert-coffee combo was very fun and incredibly tasty. Presented with what resembled a wine glass with a scoop of ice cream and a shooter of espresso, I was instructed to pour the espresso over the ice cream and eat it with the spoon that came with it. Though I don’t typically like espresso (I tend to find the taste to be too strong), it was perfect when poured over the ice cream. By allowing the ice cream to melt and combine with the espresso, the strength of the coffee was both tempered and sweetened.

I had a great experience at Aura Espresso Room– the owners were incredibly friendly, the food was excellent, and the space was cozy and sweet. Aura Espresso Room’s mission is “to be a class above our competitors by providing personalized service and continuously grow through innovation and dedication to excellence. Aura Espresso Room is committed to always deliver a premium coffee experience and create vibrant cafes that reflect, improve and inspire our communities.” These values were certainly reflected in the service, unique menu items, and presentation– looking forward to my next visit!

Discovering Fête en Blanc

Discovering Fête en Blanc

Last summer in Lancaster, I found myself feeling limited as to what to do since school was no longer in session. Franklin & Marshall College’s campus was deserted, there were no clubs or events being run by my school, additionally being 20 meant that I couldn’t take part in a lot of shows and concerts with my older friends.

This summer, however, I was excited to be able to explore Lancaster City in a new way. Now 21, I found myself enjoying the live music at Tellus360 (particularly Big Boy Brass on Sundays) and the adjacent Altana Rooftop Lounge. Looking for some variety, something new, I turned to my computer in search of something to shake things up.

One day while scrolling through my Instagram feed, I came across something I’d never heard of, an event called Fête en Blanc. I was confused at first, not quite sure what it was from the photos of Lancastrians wearing all white at what looked like a fancy dinner party. A visit to the event’s website, http://feteennoirelancaster.org/fete-en-blanc/fete-en-blanc-gallery/, would reveal that it was a pop-up all-white summer party inspired by a French tradition called Dîner en Blanc held in Paris.

Held this year on Thursday, June 28, the location of the event remained a secret until noon of the preceding day. A 21-and-over event with a limited number of available tickets, Fête en Blanc carried an air of exclusivity and decadence that increased upon finding out that the event would have a mystery live music performance and that the elaborate white outdoor tables, food, and decorations were not provided by the event. Attendees were rather asked to BYOE (Bring Your Own Everything), impressive considering how elaborate some spreads were in the pictures I was seeing.

Intrigued and excited, I and hundreds of others waited at hour intervals from 9 a.m. to noon in the hopes of winning tickets in the online lottery. Within 10 seconds of the link going live, the first batch was sold. And the second. And the third. Luckily, I was able to get tickets during the last time slot, and a week later I picked up my tickets from a stand in Buchanan Park. I found myself surprised days later when the location of the event was announced, and it was none other than Sponaugle-Williamson Field at Franklin & Marshall College, my alma mater less than 30 feet from my apartment.

The event did not disappoint. Dressed in white and carrying an arm full of food from Oka Asian Fusion, I was greeted by a retro sign surrounded by hanging lights and entered to the sight of hundreds of people in white having dinner and waving white napkins for a toast. For most of the night there was an instrumental group playing a combination of pop covers and more classical sounding pieces before Big Boy Brass (the very same from Tellus360) made an appearance as well. As thousands of people sat eating in style and enjoying the music, I was surprised and delighted to see a bright red helicopter dip low overhead, releasing a profusion of confetti on the cheering crowd.

I would highly recommend the event to anyone interested in good company, good food and good music. While the band and location ended up being very familiar to me, the novelty of the event made everything seem new and fun. Keep a look out on their website for information on next year’s event or for Fête en Noir, a winter all-black equivalent of their summertime celebration. My only regret is that I’ll be graduating from college next year and may not be able to attend Fête en Blanc 2019.

Magical Sunflowers

As we head into August, there is one crop that really draws a crowd. It’s not something grown on many farms in the area, but that only adds to the appeal when you stumble across entire fields brimming with bright-yellow sunflowers!

I’ve always enjoyed the beauty of sunflowers, not to mention the tasty snack their seeds provide. You can imagine my reaction the first time I drove past a field blooming with sunflowers. I did a double take, immediately turned the car around and grabbed my camera. Since then, I’ve been looking for sunflower fields every August – from areas north of Lancaster County down into Maryland, where they typically bloom a little later. Last year I had the pleasure of discovering the sunflower field pictured here; incredibly enough, it’s located next to the Please Wash Me Carwash in Elverson, Chester County.

Rick Frey and his wife, Joey, built the car wash in 2003. One day Rick was driving home when he noticed a bunch of cars pulled over at a farm. Then he noticed the farmer’s sunflower field and all the people taking pictures and admiring the scenery.
In 2010 the couple planted a 1-acre crop of sunflowers in the field next to their car wash, with the hope of attracting customers during the slow summer months. It worked, and it has subsequently attracted more and more people each year.

Over time, this simple idea to attract customers has become less about promoting their business and more about community. The Freys’ sunflower field has now become infamous through social media (the sunflowers have their own Facebook page) and news stories that have attracted tens of thousands of visitors over the years. In the past, the Freys have freely shared this attention to the benefit of local organizations such as the Twin Valley Food Pantry.

Rick now views the sunflower field as a unique public space and enjoys seeing all of the various ways people utilize it. Some come to admire, some come to take pictures, and some even arrive with paint and canvas to capture the beauty of sunflowers in the spirit of old master painters such as Vincent van Gogh. The Freys encourage everyone to visit the field and enjoy the unique scenery it provides free of charge. However, due to its popularity, they ask that you take nothing but pictures and memories when you leave.

The sunflowers typically begin to bloom around the last week of July or the first week of August. They normally bloom for two to two-and-a-half weeks, with peak blooming lasting about a week before they begin to wilt. Timing is key to catching the field full of giant orange and yellow blooms standing at attention. So, be sure to follow Lancaster County magazine’s Facebook page and Instagram for my updates on the sunflowers.

Make it a day trip! Sitting just off Route 23, where Lancaster borders Chester and Berks counties, Elverson provides a great opportunity for a summer drive with a variety of potential destinations – such as Historic Poole Forge and the Hopewell Furnace National Historic Site – along the way. The sunflower field itself is located directly next to the Please Wash Me Carwash at 1 Yingst Drive in Elverson. I hope to see you there!