CELEBRATING LANCASTER COUNTY'S PEOPLE, SCENERY,

HERITAGE, STYLE & POINT OF VIEW SINCE 1987.

Oh, Baby, It’s a Wild World

A Baby Shower Goes on Safari

Anne Nikolaus loves parties. If the Villanova grad had not landed a plum Philadelphia-based position in marketing and business development for an international law firm, she says she may indeed have become an event planner. It was no surprise, then, that Anne wanted to savor the fun of planning her own baby shower.

Safari Chic would be the theme: exotic and elegant, expressed in tones of ivory and gold. And, so began the transformation of Lancaster Country Club’s ballroom into an “Out of Africa” decor. The high ceiling and chandeliers were perfect for suspending fabric “tenting” above the guests’ tables, which were topped with soft gold linens and cream roses, tightly packed in distressed gold mint julep cups for a lush pavé effect. A wall of greenery – boxwoods, ferns and palms – created a jungle backdrop for the dessert table and its “star,” a four-tiered cake, lavishly decorated in white and gold, with a lion’s head in edible gold fondant.

The club’s ballroom was familiar territory for Anne’s decorating expertise, having celebrated her black-and-white themed wedding in the same room in 2015. Preparing to welcome a baby boy into the world in December 2016, the October baby shower was a perfect reason to gather the Lancaster native’s local friends together, along with her Philly-area colleagues. “All my worlds were colliding,” Anne recalls thinking while at the event. “My mother’s girlfriends, my girlfriends, my boss – it was wonderful.”

As a string quintet of Philadelphia music students performed, the 100 guests socialized at the bloody Mary, mimosa and coffee bars. They then found their assigned seats at the cheetah, zebra, giraffe and other jungle animal-named tables. The menu was inspired by one of Anne’s favorite Philadelphia brunch spots – Rittenhouse Square’s Parc – featuring eggs benedict, pomme frites and salad of green, heirloom tomatoes and mozzarella. The spectacular cake and accompanying macarons, fruit tarts and brownie bites finished the meal on a show-stopping sweet note.

The party’s co-emcees, sister Lauren Nikolaus Zink and best friend Kate Groshong, entertained guests with a safari-animal-mamas game, while an ivory and gold Victorian couch allowed Anne to take center stage for the baby shower tradition, the opening of gifts for Baby Boy Nikolaus-Pereira. After expressing her heartfelt thanks, Anne treated her guests to a take-home gift of a succulent plant in a gold pot, as a symbol of life, especially the new little life about to arrive in two months.

Victor Nikolaus-Pereira arrived last December. Anne’s love of party-planning continues with the first birthday of Victor Nikolaus-Pereira on the horizon. “It may be a beach or a circus theme, perhaps with food trucks,” she muses. But, whatever the theme, Baby Victor, you are in for a fabulous time!

How did you do that?

Invitations – Persnickety, York, persnicketyinc.com
Venue – Lancaster Country Club, Lancaster, lancastercc.com
Linens – Special Occasions, Lancaster, specialo.com
Cake – Bella Manse, Millersville, bellamanse.com
Dessert Table – La Petite Patisserie, Lancaster, petitedessert.com
Décor – Shumaker PDT, Lancaster, shumakerpdt.com
String Quintet – Philly Street Violins, Facebook: Phillystreetviolins
Flowers – Barb Flosdorf, Lititz
Photography – Yokography, Harrisburg; Facebook & Instagram

Sausage, Bacon, Burgers, Charcuterie and More

September is a banner month for Rooster Street Butcher. Owners Tony and Kristina Page are celebrating Rooster Street’s second anniversary in Lititz, four years as a stand holder at Lancaster Central Market and five years as a butcher shop.

The venture began in Elizabethtown, which Tony notes was mostly a production facility with a small retail store. “We wanted to expand our offerings. We now have more production space and about 24 feet of display cases for our charcuterie, as well as an area for a small cafe,” he says of the move to Lititz. Rooster Street makes its home in a former retail store, which entailed renovations before the business could open. “What really drew us to this particular spot was the glass partition,” Tony notes.

Located behind the display cases, the glass partition offers a view of the production area. White subway tile distinguishes some of the walls. Tall windows bathe the cozy dining area with natural light. The BYOB café seats 28 at wood tables of varying sizes. The larger tables sport marble tops. “We wanted to create a crisp, clean look and a casual, comfortable restaurant,” says Kristina.

A graduate of Yorktowne Business Institute and School of Culinary Arts, Tony’s culinary career began at age 16 when he started washing dishes and cooking at an uncle’s restaurant in York. There he discovered a passion for cooking. He’s worked in restaurants in Lancaster, Philadelphia, New York City and Charleston. Prior to opening Rooster Street, he worked at Emeril Lagasse’s Chop House (The Sands Casino Resort in Bethlehem), starting as the sous chef and then being promoted to chef de cuisine. “That’s where I learned to cut and cure meat,” he says.

Growing up on a farm in Washington Boro, Kristina was a server at a small family restaurant at age 15. She holds a BFA in communication design from Kutztown University. After college she spent time in Savannah, Georgia, working in the restaurant industry. She returned to Lancaster and met Tony while the two were working at a country club. She also attended culinary school. She says she obsesses about both food and design; it’s her goal to make certain that Rooster Street’s guests leave happy.

But, what about the name? “When we went to Paris, we found a butcher shop we liked. There were roosters in the window, so every time we talked about visiting that shop we mentioned the roosters. When we started our own business and talked about a name, Rooster Street seemed like the perfect name,” Tony says with a smile.

He explains that Rooster Street Butcher uses locally sourced ingredients. That begins with the farmers that Tony personally selects. In his estimation, building relationships is an important part of the food chain. The farmers’ animals are grass-fed and pasture-raised. The hormone- and antibiotic-free meats are butchered in-house by hand. Rooster Street’s butcher shop produces its own bacon, hams, sausage, salami, lunch meats, ground beef and cuts of meat (beef, pork, lamb) and poultry.

One of the most popular items in the butcher case is the fresh sausage. “It’s not your typical sausage,” Tony explains. “We do make Italian sausage, but most of what we do is a bit more exotic,” he says of flavors such as chorizo, roasted garlic and kale that have become standards.

Seasonal pork sausage flavors include heirloom tomato, citrus and basil, mushroom and leek, and spicy jalapeño. For those who enjoy other types of sausage, Rooster Street’s offerings often include lamb, chicken verde and turkey country.

Bacon is also offered in several varieties — thick cut, thin, country-style and sometimes even spicy lamb.

 

Menu items are made with Rooster Street proteins and as many locally sourced ingredients as possible. “What we don’t make here, we try to source from other makers,” Kristina says.

The menu itself features fries, made-to-order fresh slaw, house-made pickles, soups, salads, roasted beets, charcuterie and cheese board selections, and hot and cold sandwiches.

The top-selling sandwich is The Rooster, which features spicy fried chicken, buttermilk dressing, shaved cabbage and sweet pickles on a Kaiser roll. There’s a traditional beef burger, as well as a bacon burger, which is a blend of ground pork and ground bacon topped with American cheese, mustard, sliced jalapeño and shaved lettuce.

On Tuesdays at Rooster Street, the special is tacos; each week’s variety is posted on social media sites. In addition to menu offerings, guests can also select an item from the case, and it will be prepared for them.

Rooster Street changes things up a bit on Fridays and Saturdays. Friday evenings, a steak entrée is available, and Saturday offers a brunch menu that includes such items as grapefruit brulée; toast, butter & jams; steak & eggs; egg sandwich; stuffed French toast and chorizo hash.
Dessert offerings include chocolate bread pudding, orange-scented crème brulée, and locally made ice cream.

If you’re not going the BYOB route, drink selections include Menno Teas and bottled sodas from Appalachian Brewing Company.


Rooster Street Butcher, 11 South Cedar Street, Lititz. Hours are 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Tuesday through Thursday; 10 a.m.-9 p.m., Friday; and 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturday (brunch hours are 8 a.m.-2 p.m.). BYOB. Dine-in or takeout. A small children’s menu is available. Catering is also available. Call ahead seating available for larger groups. 717-625-0405; roosterst.com and on Facebook.RoosterStreet also has a stand at Lancaster Central Market (Tues., Fri. and Sat.).

 

A Carriage House Kitchen Small in Size, Big in Design

Walk into this former carriage house, take a few steps and you’re in the kitchen. The visual impact was one of the motivating factors that prompted the homeowner to completely remodel it.

The kitchen had been remodeled in the ‘60s. The cabinetry not only darkened the room, but the upper cabinets were out of scale, making the space seem very bottom heavy. Note the infamous hook in the ceiling, which dates to the early days of the 20th century, when the building housed a sleigh and later, cars.
In the ‘80s and early ‘90s, living large defined home design. Cavernous great rooms, ballroom-size kitchens and bathrooms that rivaled the size of Roman spas were high on must-have lists. Over that period, the average home grew from 1,780 square feet to 2,400 square feet.

Now, of course, many of the original owners of homes built during that period are either downsizing or are moving to 55+ or retirement communities. As a result, ‘80s-era homes are hitting the market and a new generation of buyers is looking to designers like Kevin Martin of Quality Custom Cabinetry and remodelers such as Bruce Gingrich of Glenn Gingrich, Inc., to make living spaces seem less overwhelming.

As per the adage, “what goes around comes around,” today’s home buyers – specifically the millennials – are looking to live in smaller, more manageable houses. If you’re a devotee of HGTV, DIY, FYI and other home-focused cable networks, you’re probably aware that “tiny” and “flipping” have become the driving forces behind many of their shows.

In Lancaster city, small house living is not a new phenomenon, as is evidenced by streets filled with tidy row homes. Repurposing carriage houses and other utilitarian buildings to create unique living spaces has also long been popular in the Red Rose city.

Fifteen years ago, a newcomer to Lancaster had taken up temporary residence with friends while he searched for a home to buy. One day he took a walk through one of the city’s historic neighborhoods and noticed a small “house” that sat off the street. “I thought to myself, ‘I love that!’” he recalls. A few weeks later he walked the same route and to his surprise, a For Sale sign had been posted on the property. He immediately arranged for a showing. Taking a step into the foyer, he made an instantaneous offer to buy the house.

It seems he purchased a slice of Lancaster’s architectural history that relates to the Victorian era: Built in the late 1800s, it originally served as the carriage house for a nearby residence. The caretaker lived in an apartment on the upper floor. In the 20th century, it was transformed into a private, single-family, 4-bedroom home.

The carriage house’s new owner moved in and quickly realized he had a lot of work ahead of him. While the original brown beadboard ceiling was beautiful, it delivered the impression of a ‘50s-era bowling alley. Yet, he liked how it related to the era in which the house was built and vowed to keep it and find a way to make it less obvious. The knotty-pine kitchen, circa the ‘60s, was certainly vintage, but it had to go. “Oh, and there was Laura Ashley wallpaper everywhere,” he notes. And, it didn’t want to budge from the horsehair plaster.

Still, the new homeowner forged on. He worked with a remodeling contractor to transform the second floor. A hallway was eliminated, which allowed for one of the bedrooms to become a loft-like sitting room and library. The bedroom that sat between the master bedroom and bath was reconfigured to become a dressing area and walk-in closet, thus creating a full-fledged master suite. Downstairs, the living/dining room was refurbished and given a fresh coat of paint, which softened the impact of the beadboard ceiling.

After a 12-year wait, it came time to tackle the kitchen. Despite its minuscule size – 8×12 feet – the homeowner was at a loss from a design perspective. “Everyone kept saying I had to take a wall down and open it up, but I didn’t want to do that,” he explains. He turned to Horizon Kitchens for help and began working with Kevin Martin. “He was convinced it was a design nightmare,” Kevin recalls.

The first time Kevin saw it, he had to agree with the nightmare assessment. “I didn’t know what to make of the hook in the ceiling, but it became a quirk that I grew to like,” he comments. “We agreed it had to stay.”

Because he wanted to devote the bulk of his time to designing the space, Kevin suggested they add Bruce Gingrich of Glenn Gingrich, Inc., to the team as a design associate and remodeler. “Bruce could not only serve as the remodeling contractor, but I was confident that because of his design aesthetic, he could essentially be the associate designer for the project and help with selecting countertops, the backsplash, faucets and lighting,” Kevin explains. “It was also nice to have him onboard to bounce ideas off of and offer second opinions.”

In Bruce’s opinion, “It was critical that it look good,” he says of the kitchen. “You walk through the front door and you’re there. I also thought that it was important for the design to reflect the character of the house.”

He was also aware of the challenges the small space presented. “The challenge here was to make things work when you’re faced with tight and compromising conditions. But, that’s part of the fun of a remodeling project: Sometimes you can be more creative than if you’re working with a clean slate.”

Bruce also had another ace up his sleeve: He loves to cook and fully understands the dynamics of a kitchen.

Kevin began by taking cues from other areas of the first floor. “The kitchen is open to all areas, so it needed to complement the styling and decor that was already in place,” he explains. To achieve that, he employed a simple inset-door style. Furniture-style construction also distinguishes the cabinetry. The cream paint color echoes the wall color and upholstery in the living/dining room.

Convenience was also built into the design, as all the lower cabinets are fully outfitted with pull-out shelving.

Eliminating clutter and creating a seamless look are keys to designing a small kitchen. Here, cabinet panels on the refrigerator and dishwasher help to achieve that, as does the elimination of outlets and such. Instead, outlet strips are tucked out-of-sight beneath the cabinets.

Light is another element of making small spaces appear larger. In addition to the cream-based color scheme, an expanse of recessed lights illuminates the kitchen. Natural light streams in through the off-center window.

The sensation of additional light comes courtesy of a door that separates the utility room/laundry from a hallway that also provides access to a bathroom and pantry. The homeowner liked to keep the door open, but complained that it resulted in a drafty kitchen. “We looked into a glass door but didn’t find anything that was right,” Bruce explains.

Wanting to add natural light to a drafty hallway that connects the laundry/utility room to the kitchen, Bruce searched for a glass door to replace the wood door. Not finding anything appropriate, the idea occurred that the inset panels could be removed and replaced with glass. Now, natural light illuminates the hallway, and the kitchen is draft-free.Then, one day Bruce was struck by the idea of removing the recessed panels of the existing door and replacing them with glass. The old/new door proved to be a perfect solution as it admits natural light but blocks drafts.

Bruce and the homeowner have continued to collaborate on projects. The area that holds the gas stove in the living room was made less obtrusive, and Bruce designed end tables that would contain the boxes, wires, etc., for the television, as well as provide display areas for books.

The homeowner, who has lived in Boston, Baltimore and Washington, loves living in Lancaster. “This is probably the best house I’ve ever had,” he says. “The tradespeople in Lancaster are wonderful, and they are so talented.”

While he is living small, he says the house is perfect for entertaining. “It’s a very easy house for entertaining,” he says. “The kitchen has made it more so. Now, there’s a nice flow that makes it very inviting. My friends from Baltimore and D.C. love it.”

CREDITS
Kitchen Design: Kevin Martin
Remodeler/Designer: Bruce Gingrich, Glenn Gingrich, Inc.
Cabinetry: Horizon Kitchens
Counters: Lapp Tops
Specialty Cabinets: Joel Bare

The Joy of Taking a Cooking Class

Taking a cooking class has been a perpetual New Year’s resolution of mine. I’ve been intrigued by food almost as long as I’ve been a terrible cook. When the opportunity arose to take a cooking class hosted by friend and cooking enthusiast Bruce Gingrich, I jumped at the opportunity. In time, my resolution would lead to more than just a new way of life.

First, a little bit about Bruce. He’s always been interested in cooking and, during his time in college, a chance encounter with a chef at a cooking demonstration opened the door to improving his own kitchen skills. The chef suggested he buy the Culinary Institute of America’s textbook, The Professional Chef, and follow it from beginning to end.

Although the book was expensive (from a student perspective), Bruce took the chef’s advice, anted up the dough and cooked his way through the book. Envision the movie Julie and Julia, and you’ll get the picture.

Our connection? I met Bruce at a photo shoot for Lancaster County magazine. Not ironically, food and cooking were involved, as the storyline entailed a dinner party at the home of Pete and Carol Heth. “You look familiar,” Bruce said to me. In playing out a lengthy round of the Lancaster County game, we concluded our paths had crossed time and again, including the New Holland Coffee Co., which we both frequent.

Thanks to that assignment, Bruce and I have become buds, riding bikes together and collaborating on photography for some of Bruce’s building and remodeling projects.

Last year, Bruce launched a home-based cooking school of sorts and invited me and my girlfriend, Jessica, to participate. Eight of us typically gathered once a month to cover a new topic and prepare a host of recipes. We learned to make soups, pesto, fettuccine Alfredo, salad dressings and mayonnaise from scratch. One night we grilled each course (I highly recommend grilled pound cake). We sharpened our cooking techniques with improved knife skills.

The culinary experience alone would have been life-changing, but the difference the classes made in our lives was far-reaching. They affected how we shop; the quality of our meals improved with better ingredients, so many of which Lancaster County bountifully provides. We’ve begun to explore local roadside stands and added Lancaster Central Market and Stoudt’s Wonderful Good Market to our itinerary. We now stick to the perimeter of grocery stores like Shady Maple in order to focus on fresh produce, meats and seafood. Our new routine pays dividends when a recipe comes together.

Summer

A Greater Sense of Community

As the months went by, what started out as a journey in pursuit of preparing better food became so much more. We began looking for recipes, cooking inspiration, used cookbooks (the Lancaster Public Library book sale is a great source) and hot buys at The Restaurant Store.

Cooking also conjured up childhood memories. Everyone remembers cooking with a grandparent, leading to shared connections across generations. Recipes, techniques, family history and stories of days gone by are all passed on over food. It’s almost as though the point of food is nourishment not only for the body, but also for the soul.

Through cooking together over the course of a year, our monthly interactions quickly grew into a new community; as friendships developed, we discovered how much is shared through preparing and enjoying food as a group.

The more we shared at each class, the more we started to realize that opportunities to meet new friends or even catch up with old ones at meals are becoming rare.

Gone are the days when landlines reigned supreme and a last-minute call to a home phone number prequalified an impromptu Sunday afternoon visit. I thought of my grandmother, who was always prepared for guests to stop over. She had a well-stocked pantry full of fresh baked goods, sodas and other treats for the unexpected visitor.

My grandmother was also the perfect guest. She’d arrive at her destination with a thermal insulated bag filled with something in one hand and a pie from Bird-in-Hand Bake Shop in the other.

Fall

The Art of Being Neighborly

Contrary to what you might expect to hear in a cooking class, entertaining guests doesn’t require being a fantastic cook or baker. A hectic schedule is not a detriment either. You can buy prepared food, such as a rotisserie chicken, homemade soup, potato salad or a cake for your dinner party. It’s not a rule that you must make everything from scratch.

You can also take prepared dishes to another level if you’re feeling creative. One of my secrets comes from New Orleans’ French Quarter: a sliced pecan pie grilled with butter on a heated, cast-iron skillet, then served a la mode. Similar to a grilled sticky bun, grilling adds a delightful, caramelized crunch with a sweet play on temperature.

Beautiful desserts from the Baker’s Table or La Dolce Vita are a convenient addition to your menu. Keeping a selection of wine, beer, tea or coffee on hand is another simple inclusion.

And, if someone offers to bring something, by all means, accept the hospitality.

Winter

It also turns out that there’s an art to hosting and being neighborly, and it’s a critical subject for cultivating community around food. For example, there’s protocol for what to communicate ahead of a gathering. In addition to establishing a start time, be sure to make inquiries about dietary restrictions. Serving Delmonicos to a group of vegans will definitely put a damper on the festivities. You’ll be asked about what guests should wear; again there’s lingo to learn. “Anything” will get you just that; learn the nuances of what casual, cocktail casual, cocktail, etc., entail.

Creating a theme for the night – such as a summer fete en blanc, where everyone in attendance dresses in white – creates fun and excitement.

Also, address what guests should bring, if anything, and that includes children (and, in this day and age, maybe the family dog).

Deciding whether topics such as politics and religion should be encouraged or be off limits can make or break more than just an evening.

When guests arrive, make sure to facilitate introductions. I always appreciate when there’s a lead-in with shared interests, which almost instantly replaces any introverted awkwardness I bring to the table with deeper and genuinely enthusiastic conversation. Also along those lines, if you’re hosting a sit-down dinner, I can attest that tactfully seating guests around the dinner table can encourage conversation simply by placing introverts (such as myself) next to the more outgoing extroverts.

Spring

In the end, taking a cooking class turned out to be less about food and more about community than I anticipated. I’m grateful to the Gingrich family and the many friendships that have formed and for all of the wonderful evenings shared since it all began. It has provided an enduring perspective on how I experience and share food.

If cooking is of interest to you, I encourage you to take a class and learn how to prepare at least one dish well. You never know what a cooking class will really teach you.

Scootin’ Around

In may’s column, I introduced you to two-wheeled tours that are offered by Intercourse Bikeworks and Lititz Bikeworks. The resulting feedback was overwhelmingly positive, and I received a number of messages asking for information about other tours. There is always more to explore, so grab a helmet as we hit the road again; only this time, we’ll pull back the throttle and feel the engine roar as we take off with Strasburg Scooters.

The rural countryside around Strasburg makes for a beautiful drive or ride – especially during the fall season. As a motorcycle enthusiast, Marc Crusemire knew this very well. His creative engine began firing as he saw the opportunity to offer that experience to a wider audience. With that, Strasburg Scooters was born to provide 50cc scooter tours that offer an experience unlike any other.

 

There are three scooters to choose from: a one-seater, two-seater or the 3-wheeled Scoot Coupe. While riders are required to have a valid driver’s license, Pennsylvania does not require a motorcycle license for these sized engines. The experience is similar to riding a bicycle, but with a constant 20-25 mph to keep a cool breeze on you. That’s helpful because the Covered Bridge Tour covers an average distance of 40 miles and takes 2-1/2 to 3 hours to complete. The tours take the experience beyond just the ride, as your guide will provide you with insight and details about the area’s history and the Amish culture.

It deserves mentioning that the tours are a labor of love for Marc and his wife, Nikki. The duo is involved in every aspect of the tours from creating the routes to booking tours, welcoming guests, guiding the tours and even refueling the fleet. While they can’t lead every single tour themselves, the couple seeks only the safest and most knowledgeable guides around to lead the way in their absence.

 

There are a variety of tours offered by Strasburg Scooters, including the classic Covered Bridge Tour, Amish Country Mystery Tour, Bridges & Brew Tour, All Aboard Date Night Tour and more. On September 8, there will be “A Very Special Tour” to benefit a very special place – the Clinic for Special Children, which is located just outside Strasburg.

According to Strasburg Scooters’ website, the clinic was “raised” in 1990 with assistance from the local Amish and Mennonite communities to offer a trusted place for treatment and prevention of genetic illnesses. This humble timber-framed structure houses an array of high-tech gene-sequencing tools and a highly trained staff to help detect and treat potential genetic disorders in a nurturing environment. This beautiful countryside tour comes with some delicious Amish-made chicken barbecue. All the proceeds will be donated to the Clinic for Special Children.


To see all of the various tours, dates and rates, visit strasburgscooters.com.

Debunking Wine Myths

Wine is a complex subject. All the terminology. All the perceived rules. All the subjectivity on what’s good and what’s not. So, when people hear I like wine, they will often start asking questions. Some of the questions are basic (what do I drink with XYZ?), and some are more complicated (how do I get into wine if I don’t like it?). However, most questions I answer stem from common wine myths. So, in an effort to set the record straight, here are three myths about wine – debunked!

A screw cap instead of a cork signals a low-quality wine

I remember a conversation with my dad where he described opening a bottle of wine. He said he put the corkscrew onto the bottle and started turning it. But, before he knew it, he had easily gotten through the cork. “I must have pushed the cork down into the bottle,” he said. “I ended up just pouring the wine out through the hole in the top.”

The wine he had opened was a Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling— a wine that’s bottled not with a cork, but with a screw cap. (Hence the “hole in the top.”) Laughing he said, “But, this isn’t a bad bottle of wine!”

And, he was right. Washington State’s Kung Fu Girl is a regular on the “Best of” lists of various wine publications and generally retails for $14 or so. It’s hardly Boone’s Farm, and yet neither bottle requires a corkscrew for opening.

The truth is, there are benefits and drawbacks with both types of closures, and depending on the type of wine and whether or not it will be aged, a savvy winemaker may have a very purposeful reason for choosing natural cork over a screw cap or vice versa. As an example, natural cork allows more oxygen into a bottle of wine over time than does an aluminum screw cap. For some wines (think: tannic red), this may be a benefit, as the oxygen will allow certain flavors to develop. For other wines (a crisp sauvignon blanc), this may be a drawback, especially if the winemaker expects the wine to be consumed within a handful of years.

Industry publication Wine Business Monthly issues a Closing Survey each year to determine how many wineries are using corks vs. synthetic closures vs. screw caps. The number of wineries (especially large wineries) using screw caps is increasing, but perhaps most interesting in this survey was that winemakers think consumers are becoming more accepting of screw caps.

I would imagine this may be in part due to big name wineries and regions putting their faith in screw caps. In fact, the New Zealand Screwcap Wine Seal Initiative was convened in 2001 by producers exasperated with the inconsistency of cork. The group performed research, fought the cork lobby (there’s a CORK lobby?) and developed informational materials on the most professional and romantic way to open a screw cap bottle. More than 90% of the bottles coming from New Zealand are now sealed with screw caps, and that includes wines from big name, reputable producers, including one of my favorites: Kim Crawford.

The bottom line is, you may find wine stays “fresher” when closed with a screw cap. But if you’re used to drinking wine aged with cork closures, you may find the wine too pristine. Regardless, the type of closure has little to do with the quality of the wine.

The more expensive the bottle, the better the wine

My husband and I used to have a $10/bottle limit on wines we purchased. If I had to guess, I’d say 7 out of 10 bottles we bought were satisfactory. Then, one day I was chatting with Lonn Hess, a former retail wine specialist at the Fruitville Pike Fine Wine & Good Spirits store, and he recommended upping the limit to $15. He said the difference between $10 and $15 can sometimes be extraordinary. We increased our budget, and I have to admit, it’s made all the difference in the world. Granted, in that time we’ve also learned a lot more about what we like, but there’s something about quality that skyrockets in that $5 increase.

But, what about a $25 bottle of wine? Or $50? Or $100? Here’s the thing. If you have a trained palate, I bet you will be able to tell the difference between a $15 bottle of wine and a $100 bottle of wine. And, if you prefer the more expensive bottle, there could be several reasons: The grapes may be higher quality; the barrels may be higher quality; the wine may have aged longer, etc.

Side note: One of the true sins of an inexpensive oaked wine is oak chips – small pieces of oak dumped in the wine while it ages in a container made of something other than oak. Because oak barrels are very expensive (sometimes $1,000+), some wineries do this to keep their prices down. But there is a stark difference, and I believe oak chipping is one of the reasons people say they don’t like oaky wines. Oak can give wine delicious toasty flavors or vanilla notes, but it shouldn’t make the wine taste like freshly-chopped wood.

But, other differences can be more subtle. I tried an $850 bottle of wine at this year’s Harrisburg Wine Fest (Penfolds Grange). It was good. But even with my palate, I didn’t think it was so spectacular that I would have guessed it cost 50 times more than any other bottle.

My conclusion: There is a HUGE difference between a $6 bottle of wine and a $15 bottle of wine and a noticeable difference between a $10 bottle of wine and a $50 bottle of wine. So, to address the myth mentioned above, while I believe the $850 bottle of wine may be “better,” it’s not SO MUCH better that it justifies the cost. And, unless you have an exceptional palate, the $50 bottle won’t likely be that much different than the $25 bottle. So, know your audience, and don’t buy a more expensive bottle “just because.”

People get headaches from red wine because of sulfites

Red wine headache is a very real thing. But, don’t be so quick to blame sulfites, which are added to wine as a preservative and to kill yeast. Sulfites do cause sometimes-life-threatening symptoms in less than 1% of the population, but they likely aren’t responsible for headaches, and – this may surprise some people – white wine contains more sulfites than red wine! If you get headaches from dried fruit, chips or pickles (all high in sulfites), chances are you may have a sensitivity.

So, if not sulfites, what causes wine headaches? Some experts are saying it could be histamine or tyramine, natural substances found in wine that dilate and constrict blood vessels. If you also get headaches from smoked or cured meats, aged cheese and citrus fruit, it could be a tyramine sensitivity. As for histamines, talk to your doctor about pairing an anti-histamine with your favorite glass of red wine to see if it helps (studies have shown red wine contains more histamines than white). Unfortunately, without more research, there’s no real way to know the culprit of wine headaches, which could also be caused by grape type, soil or fermentation process.

What’s the moral of this story? The next time you’re at Fine Wine & Good Spirits, pick up a $20 bottle of Kim Crawford pinot noir, twist off the screw cap and enjoy a great glass of red wine without worrying about sulfites. Cheers!

The Instagram Effect

For the last several months, I’ve been hitting Lancaster County eateries, snapping photos of appetizers, posting them to social media and tagging them with #LanCoTizer. The search was not all-encompassing: I wanted to find a few places offering something other than wings, mozz sticks and jalapeÑo poppers. Not that there is anything wrong with those, but there is just so much more restaurants have to offer.

The idea for this quest came on the heels of reading about chefs from around the world who either embrace or abhor photos of their food being plastered on social media sites. It seems diners just can’t help themselves – they want to photograph and share what they’re enjoying. The label #food attached to photos on Instagram surpassed 150 million tags in 2015 and, with the surging popularity of Instagram, that number has probably grown substantially over the last two years. Now, it’s not at all unusual to be in a restaurant and see people taking photos of drinks, food, themselves, their dining companions, the staff, the scenery and on occasion, the chef. It seems like only yesterday when someone from management would apologize to guests if the flash of a camera went off in a restaurant for a special occasion like a birthday, anniversary or graduation. I’m afraid those days are long-gone!

Many chefs have gone beyond tolerance and actually encourage photo-happy customers. Comodo, a chic neighborhood eatery in SoHo, encouraged customers to snap pics and even built an Instagram menu around user’s posts with #comodomenu. And, according to an article in Washingtonian magazine, that region’s restaurants are embracing the phenomenon; owners and designers undertaking remodeling and redecorating projects are devoting more attention (and money) to lighting, backdrops and color schemes that will accommodate their Instagram-happy customers and in doing so, bring attention to their restaurants. Some Washington-area restaurants are even supplying tip sheets on capturing the tastiest Instagram photo to commemorate a night out.

A few weeks ago, Good Morning America aired an unheard-of 10-minute segment on the subject. It seems restaurants in New York are now engaging the services of professional photographers to create “Instagram” images that capture their cuisine in the best light possible. The fact that the photographers spend considerable amounts of time styling and staging the food sort of defeats the purpose of Instagram.

 

However, there are detractors to the movement. Despite its viral marketing, Comodo closed in March. Michelin star holder Alexandre Gauthier joined a few other French chefs and banned the use of Instagram from his restaurant, La Grenouillère.

Asking around Lancaster County, it seems most local chefs – just like most chefs worldwide – have come to accept amateur food photography and the associated social networking posts. It’s a personal thing. Some embrace the idea. Some just shrug their shoulders.

Feel free to search #LanCoTizer on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter for examples, but here are a few places that stood out for their creativity, dedication to food as craft, and all-around yumminess.

A Raw Staple

To Chef Carl Vitale, tuna tartare is a menu staple. The first time I ever sat down to talk with him about his food – back before the restaurant’s new location opened on Oregon Pike – he brought over a plate for each of us, along with a glass of California red wine. The dish, which evolves seasonally, is an important part of Vitale’s intent to build a menu around freshness and sustainability.

Bluefin tuna, once essential for upscale restaurants and a hard-sought prize for sport anglers, is dangerously overfished. Bluefin, the largest tuna, is sought for its size and populates menus at restaurants serving raw fish.

Not at Gibraltar. Vitale opts to procure the yellowfin variety, which is plated with an eggplant purée, kalamata olives, fresh tomatoes and a few salty caper berries. (Yellowfin is not on the Word Wildlife Fund’s list of endangered species and is often marketed as ahi tuna.) The dish is as beautiful to look at as it tastes.

“If you’re proud of your food, and you’re not insecure about other people stealing your ideas, then I think people taking photos of your food is flattering,” says Carl. “In my opinion, it’s bought and paid for; it’s theirs. If they want to take a picture of it and post it on Instagram, Facebook or wherever, that’s great publicity.”


Gibraltar. 488 Royer Dr.; 717-397-2790; gibraltargrille.com

A Hero on a Half Shell

Nandua Selects Oyster Company photo
Matt Keasey likes oysters … and beer, so the mad scientist behind creations like The Astounding She-Monster Mango IPA, Lil’ Gruesome Peanut Butter and Jelly Stout, and Braaaiins! Pumpkin Ale For Zombies at Spring House Brewing Company requires the bivalves be on the menu at his Hazel Street location. In fact, the brewery known for pulling no experimental punches actually created an oyster beer using the shellfish in the brewing process.

“That’s Matt’s thing. Something about how well the briny nature of the oyster pairs with the beers,” says General Manager Damian Morris when I got down to talking appetizers – and oysters – with him recently.

Having an emphasis on the slightly obscure from day one, the menu at the Hazel Street location (as opposed to the tasting room downtown) has featured rabbit sandwiches, wild boar and wild game birds. Now branded The Butchery – with an emphasis on steaks – the eatery also offers a selection of oysters year-round (as available) and aims to source the creatures as close to home as possible.

During a recent visit, I tried a few raws from Nandua, Virginia. Nandua is an unincorporated community in Accomack County, on a tributary leading to the Chesapeake Bay, 75 miles southwest of Ocean City, Maryland. Nandua Selects Oyster Company (pictured left) is a fourth-generation fishery. I found the oysters to be both sweet and salty, with an incredible citrus aftertaste. Damian suggested pairing the oysters with their current JOOP offering, an IPA brewed with peach purée and Mosaic and El Dorado hops.

As for posting pics of The Butchery’s food on social media, Damian is all for it. “We use it to help promote our specials, and we love when customers show off what our chef can do,” he says.


Spring House Brewing Company. 209 Hazel St.; 717-984-2530; springhousebeer.com/pages/hazel

A Stuffed Avocado

“It makes me feel good knowing someone took pics,” says Chef Mike Groff at Brady’s Pub in New Holland. “It also encourages me to make sure my presentation stays up to par. I don’t want a sloppy food pic posted.”

Self-taught, Mike has been cooking for over 20 years. He started in the industry as a dishwasher at the one-time Ephrata landmark, family-run Rawhide in the Cloister Shopping Center. He still works in the family biz, as his parents now own Brady’s where he is the full-time chef. When not in the kitchen, Mike spins tunes for local events, weddings and private parties as DJ Mike.

Over the years, he’s found he sometimes needs to push his customers to try new things. When he first introduced ahi tuna as an appetizer, no one ordered it. So, the next weekend he plated up two-dozen samples and handed them out as an on-the-house amuse-bouche. Now, the ahi tuna rivals the crab balls as the restaurant’s top selling appetizer.

“A lot of people do fried things when it comes to appetizers, so I wanted to do something outside of the box,” Mike says of his bacon, egg and cheese-stuffed avocado served with honey-glazed watermelon. He came up with the idea, which should not be misconstrued as a breakfast dish despite the eggs and bacon, and polled a couple of taste-testers at the bar. The sample bites were a hit.

It comes as no surprise that Mike’s corn, crab and lobster bisque earned him first place five years in a row at Taste of Lancaster County. The restaurant also displays people’s choice awards for his chili.


Brady’s Pub. 856 W. Main St., New Holland; 717-355-5510; my.sociopal.com/bradyspub

 

An OBX State of Mind

It’s September, and many of you are probably thinking about making trips to the mountains to enjoy the fall foliage. Have you ever considered a fall getaway to the beach? If you head south to Virginia, the Carolinas and beyond, you’ll find the weather is great, the water is warm, fishing is fantastic and, best of all, the crowds are gone. Plus, there’s fall color: The dune grasses take on a golden glow.

After years of going the “shore” route, my family made a trip to the Outer Banks of North Carolina in search of something different. Indeed, the contrasts between the Outer Banks and our more familiar boardwalk beaches were striking. When I returned years later – in 2008 – as an adult, we headed north on NC12; that’s when the focus of my beach trips permanently changed from Wildwood to wildlife.

The Outer Banks is a string of barrier islands, peninsulas, and spits that stretch 200 miles from the southeastern tip of Virginia to Ocracoke Island in North Carolina. They’re separated from the mainland by a series of sounds. In some places the islands are so thin that you can simultaneously see the sound and ocean as you travel the only north/south route, NC12.

The Outer Banks has been in the news this summer due to a pop-up island that has taken shape off the point of Hatteras Island. Because of the array of shells that wash up, it’s been dubbed Shelly Island. And, of course, the construction disaster that disrupted power to the lower islands – causing mandatory evacuations for visitors – dominated the news in late July and early August.

Coming from the north, you’ll likely make your way across the Currituck Sound via the NC158 Wright Memorial Bridge, which takes you to NC12. From there you have the choice to go north to towns like Duck and Corolla, or south into the more densely populated areas like Kitty Hawk, Kill Devil Hills and Nags Head.

Does Kitty Hawk sound familiar? It’s home to the Wright Brothers National Memorial, which is on the site where Orville and Wilbur first took flight. Go a little farther south into Nags Head, and you’ll spot ant-sized people hiking (or hand-gliding) over the giant dunes of Jockey’s Ridge State Park. Being that the stretch between the two mainland bridges is so populated, this area also offers the most shopping, dining, entertainment and recreational activities.

Shortly thereafter you can pick up US-64, which turns westward toward Roanoke Island, the home of the historical drama, The Lost Colony. This summer marked the production’s 80th season, and here’s some trivia: It’s where Andy Griffith launched his acting career.

 

Continuing south on NC 12, you’ll cross Oregon Inlet (home to the Discovery series, Wicked Tuna/Outer Banks) and enter Hatteras Island, which is home to the Cape Hatteras National Seashore. Officially established on January 12, 1953, it is recognized as the country’s first national seashore.

This is where the wind meets the wild, allowing the National Park Service to manage and preserve over 70 miles of the Outer Banks from Bodie Island to Ocracoke Island. Small towns, such as Waves, Rodanthe (yes, the movie, Nights in Rodanthe, was filmed on the Outer Banks), Avon, Buxton, Frisco and Hatteras Village, dot the length of the island.

It’s a popular area for camping, fishing, driving on the beach and other outdoor recreation. Hatteras Village offers the closest proximity to the Gulf Stream, making it a popular destination for fishing excursions. A stretch of ocean known as the Graveyard of the Atlantic is offshore, making it a favorite of divers in search of wrecks to explore. The island’s position in the Atlantic also makes it a prime place for surfing and lighthouses.

That’s right, this area is home to three of North Carolina’s seven beautiful coastal lighthouses: Bodie Island Lighthouse, Cape Hatteras Light Station and the Ocracoke Lighthouse. Proving the fragility of the Outer Banks, in 1999 the Cape Hatteras Light was moved 2,900 feet inland as beach erosion left the lighthouse just 15 feet from the water at high tide. That was a tall order for the tallest brick lighthouse in the country, but the effort is truly appreciated by the thousands of visitors who climb the 257 steps to enjoy the jaw-dropping panoramic view.

Once you reach Hatteras Village, you’ll need to board a ferry and pick up NC12 in Ocracoke.

Ocracoke’s claim to fame is being the favorite hangout of Captain Edward Teach, who is otherwise known as Blackbeard, the infamous English pirate. One of these years, I vow to make it to Ocracoke.

Ocracoke is a haul from our favorite vacation spot on the northern banks. It’s a very different feel from the southern islands. Shortly after turning north, the road quickly becomes two lanes with no passing (a stark contrast to the five lanes heading south). That’s because this area went basically undeveloped until the mid-80s. It was in 1984 that work began to expand NC12 north to Corolla. As the road expanded, so did the communities, and the modern towns of Duck and Corolla began to take form. Driving north, the landscape is dotted with brightly colored beach homes and condos. In both towns, shopping, dining, tours, entertainment and other tourist services are generally clumped together in shopping centers. A warning to first-timers, fast food isn’t really a thing here.

As you’re making your way through Corolla, you’ll spot the red brick Currituck Beach Lighthouse above the horizon. After braving the 220 steps and a 150-foot climb, this is yet another lighthouse on the Outer Banks with a very rewarding view over Historic Corolla Village. Within the vicinity, you will also find the Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education (great for rainy days with the kids) and Whalehead, which is a beautifully restored 1920s Art Nouveau-style residence that is open to the public for museum tours. This is one of the places we stop to let some air out of the tires for the last leg of our annual journey.

As we turn back onto NC12, there are a few more shops, a pizza place, wild horse tours and the last chance for gas. After a few more twists and turns, you begin to see the warning signs. You also begin to notice the road is filled only with pickups, hummers, jeeps and SUVs. Traffic slows before the final bend as the pavement stops and the sand begins. This is the beginning of the 11-mile stretch to the Virginia border known as the 4×4 Beach. This is the only route to the group of communities generally known as Carova, which extends to the Virginia border.

This is wild horse country. In the years following World War II, the local equine population outnumbered humans 100 to 1 at times. This remained true until development began in neighboring Corolla. The exact origin of the local wild Spanish Mustang population is unknown, but it is believed the herd’s ancestors were left behind by early Spanish explorers in the mid-1500s. Another theory holds that they swam ashore in the aftermath of shipwrecks.

As visitation to the northern Outer Banks exploded, the wild horses were driven farther north, prompting fences to be erected at the Corolla and Virginia borders. The year-round residents of Carova wanted to ensure that their area stayed wild and, as a result, the 4,570-acre Currituck National Wildlife Refuge and the 965-acre Currituck Banks National Estuarine Preserve were established. Paving the roads would be impossible.

There is also a ban on commercial buildings, which guards against stores or resorts being built in the area. As a result, this is arguably the final frontier on the Outer Banks; the scenery consists of beach, sound, woods, houses and a local fire department. The habitat provides a home for local wildlife, while controlling visitor impact.

While the wild horses are a magical addition to a stay in Carova, it should be noted that it is illegal and dangerous to get with 50 feet of them. With a keen eye, you’ll be able to observe some other wildlife as well. In addition to the horses, I have also seen fox, wild boar, tree frogs, crabs, and many bird and fish species while staying in this area.

During the day, we typically pull up onto the beach and set up camp or take the kayaks back to the sound. The Carova Beach Park and Boat Ramp is a nice place to relax and watch the sun set or drop a lure, depending on the season. A walk on the beach on a clear night provides a full view of the Milky Way with the naked eye, while a walk before sunrise becomes a hunt for the ocean’s treasures that have washed ashore.

I typically summarize our visits as a relaxed environment with a touch of wild. Things move a little slower on this end of the banks, and it’s just the rest and relaxation we’re looking for when we head to the beach. September can’t come soon enough!

“Behind-the-scenes” Photo Shoots

Every September Lancaster County magazine publishes its Senior Living Advertorial. Year after year we meet incredible individuals, couples and staff members who take time out of their daily schedules to work with our photographer to get just the right shot for the September issue. The following are outtakes from our “behind-the-scenes” photo shoots. Enjoy!

Fairmount Homes

Landis Homes

Masonic Village at Elizabethtown

Pleasant View Retirement Community

Quarryville Presbyterian Retirement Community

Warwick Woodlands

#FlippinForPippin

“Pushing the envelope,” “very risqué,” and “edgy” are a few of the words and phrases I heard from Thursday night’s opening performance of Pippin at the Dutch Apple Dinner Theatre.

Having not seen a Pippin performance before, nor having read even a small synopsis about the musical, I was caught off-guard during Act I of the play; however, if you walked out after the first act, you really missed one heck of a “finale.”

The scene opens with a circus-like troupe and the Leading Player, played superbly by Housso Semon, singing Magic to Do. Pippin – who is the son of King Charlemagne – is played by head-turner Naysh Fox. He enters with his song Corner of the Sky, which basically explains his need to find fulfillment in his “extraordinary” life.

 

To make a long story short:

Pippin goes to war to prove himself; he then leaves the war and stumbles upon his exiled grandmother’s house (learning from her that he needs to experience the “simple joys” of life – enter provocative song and dance number). Feeling empty from meaningless “sexcapades,” the Leading Player and the troupe lead Pippin to commit tyranny and eventually kill his father (with some encouragement from his step-mother, Fastrada, and step-brother, Lewis). He tries to rule in his father’s place (very political scene) but realizes – in Act II – that no one can please everyone, so Pippin begs the Leading Player to bring his father back. And, with some “magic,” the knife is removed from the king’s chest, and he returns to the throne.

Continuing to find fulfillment, Pippin studies art and religion but ends up flat on his back on the side of the road in utter despair. Enter my favorite character, Catherine, played by the animated and enamored Savannah Sprinkle, whose voice is angelic. Catherine is a widowed-mother who owns a large estate. She and her young son, Theo, played by York talent, Seth Erdley, invite Pippin to stay with them, where Pippin finds the daily life boring and mundane. He tries to comfort Theo after the death of his duck and eventually warms up to Theo (and really warms up to Catherine).

Feeling trapped, Pippin abruptly leaves to continue to find his life’s fulfillment. He returns to join the Leading Player and the amazing acrobatic troupe. Like a bad case of high school peer pressure, Pippin is enticed to finish the grand finale, one that audience members will remember for the rest of their lives. He is hoisted on a swing and is shouted at by the Leading Player and troupe members to jump into a blaze of glory and shine like the sun.

He stops and realizes that his true happiness is with Catherine and Theo, whom have now joined the stage from afar, which frustrates the Leading Player who becomes irate and shuts down the production (taking away the costumes, lights, music, etc.). Pippin, Catherine and Theo are stripped down to their ordinary selves, which sheds light on the true meaning of finding happiness in an ordinary, simple life. The show ends with Catherine and Pippin leaving the stage and Theo returning alone, singing a verse from Pippin’s opening song, Corner of the Sky. The Leading Player and the troupe slowly creep onto the stage, showing us that the search for the “extraordinary” and “human fulfillment” is a part of life that everyone faces at some point in his or her life.

Bravo, Dutch Apple, on thinking outside the “Lancaster” box. I enjoyed the musical, but it’s not one I’d take my church group to.